FROM

THE

MILLENNIAL HARBINGER.

SERIES III.

VOL. V.	B E T H A N Y, VA., AUGUST, 1848.	NO. VIII.

      My dear Clarinda--NOTHING more tends to diminish the tedium viae--the wearisomeness of a journey--than the associations of history with the places through which we pass, and the objects which we contemplate. I imagined to myself that I both felt and spoke better in Dumferline, because, before commencing, I had been informed that the "auld kirk of Ralph Erskine" was yet standing within a few rods of that in which I spoke to the citizens. Aided by his brother Ebenezer, of Sterling, some twenty miles distant, and four or five other conscientious ministers of the Establishment, about a century ago, a secession from the national church was effected, which, in some twelve years after, again swarmed into two hives, politically called "Burghers" and "Anti-Burghers." Of this great movement and speculative reformation Ralph Erskine was the master spirit. But, strange to tell, after a protracted war of one hundred years, they again reunited under new auspices, and at present sail under the same flag in the North of Ireland. The Regium Donum, however, had more efficacy in consummating this union than all the metaphysical discussions of one century.

      But to return to Glasgow. This city has grown to be the third in importance in the island of Great Britain. No city in the New World, in the interval of my acquaintance with it, has surpassed, if indeed equalled, Glasgow in the rapidity of its growth in all the elements of wealth--population, manufactures, and commerce. It was set down at 300,000 inhabitants some year or two ago; but was, at the close of 1847, said to contain 341,000 souls.

      Twenty miles from the Atlantic Ocean and forty from the German Sea, lying in the extreme of the bason of the Clyde, it commands great commercial facilities. But while commerce made a few rich merchants, amongst whom the tobacco lords were chief, it was not till the age of manufactures that the city began to grow. Two hundred years ago its population only amounted to 14,000 souls. It had been eleven full centuries in growing up to that maximum. Its founder, St. Mungo, as early as 560, founded the bishopric of [443] Glasgow. Its grand Cathedral, yet standing, was founded in 1136. True, its population was often thinned by plagues and pestilences. In the 14th and again in the 17th century, it was visited by a very severe plague--four times in the former and five times in the latter. The leprosy, too, in the 16th century prevailed much. The extreme filthiness of the towns of Britain in that day is now generally regarded as the cause of these awful visitations. From ancient enactments, still extant, it would seem that Glasgow was at that time distinguished for these causes of disease. Wooden houses, narrow lanes, and, what are properly still called "closes," contributed much to these fearful ravages.

      Our revolutionary war broke up the tobacco trade in Glasgow and laid the foundation for cotton manufacture, then beginning in England. The power loom was introduced in 1792, but only fairly tested in 1801. Now there are some 17,000 steam looms impelled by Glasgow capital, in successful operation--and 40,000 hand-looms, producing fifteen millions of dollars annually. The steam looms issue some hundred millions of yards per annum, worth more than seven and a half millions of dollars. The spindles now in motion manufacturing yarns, are said to be one million one hundred thousand. One hundred thousand bales of cotton are consequently now annually consumed in this single city. Linens, lawns, cambrics, and silks are also manufactured. In iron works the city also abounds.

      Luxury and grandeur are but the shadow of wealth. In 1695 one Bank was established. In 1750, two more. In 1752 the first private carriage appeared--an omen of aristocracy. Allan Dreghorn, timber merchant, proudly rode in it. Such, however, is the growth of luxury, there are now more than three hundred still more splendid vehicles than his, carrying along, in glittering pomp, the successful aspirants after earth's magnificence. A caravan in those days was set up to run twice-a-week from Glasgow to Edinburgh, but for want of travelling patronage it was finally suspended. Long trains of rail ears, several times per day, crowded with passenger's now pass and repass between these great centres of attraction.

      Marvellous are the advances of the present century compared with every antecedent one. During the last half of the preceding century, the natives of Glasgow were startled at the aristocratic pride of Mr. Dreghorn's coach and two; and in 1772 all the city stared at Surgeon Jamieson, sporting something called an umbrella, over his head, during a shower, when walking up the Long Gate after his return from Paris. He was charged with vanity of the first degree for such inexcusable conformity to Parisian taste. [444]

      The Pope granted a bull to establish the University of Glasgow about four centuries ago, say A. D. 1453. This being promulged, one of the noble Hamiltons bequeathed four acres of ground and some humble tenements for its foundation.

      Seeing you were so much interested as to visit this old establishment and to sit in the same venerable chair in which I sat at the Blackstone examination some forty years ago, you may suppose that I would desire to wander once more through its antique cloisters and over these said four acres, where, in the fervor of youth, I spent many a sunny hour in communing with the living and the dead.--So hurried, however, and so embarrassed for time, I made but one excursion to the University, and with many a grateful reminiscence and pleasing association of ideas, I surveyed its venerable premises, and found as little change there as any place I saw during my whole tour. The Hunterian Museum, rich in many departments of natural history, especially in anatomical preparations, coins, medals, and shells, yet stands first in architectural taste and interest to the amateurs of the fine arts, crowded with many rich specimens of the works of God and man.

      In elementary, normal, and high schools, Scotland and Glasgow still hold their high position. Glasgow has the first normal school in the kingdom, and, in the amount and quality of its education, it is second to no city in the kingdom.

      James Watt, inventor of the steam engine, stands in marble in St. George's Square. Bell, too, I mean Henry Bell, I am told, who constructed and launched on the bosom of the Clyde the first steam boat in Scotland and Europe, also stands in monumental glory, eleven miles from the city, at Douglass, on the Clyde. The unfortunate Comet, as she was called, only of three horse power, you may remember, was run against in the night by another steamer, in her native river, below Greenock, and carried in her bosom to the bottom of the river some three score and ten persons. This happened when she had been fourteen years in use, having been launched January 18, 1812. Watt and Bell did more for Glasgow, so far as pertains to their worldly greatness, than did all the persons that now inhabit the proudest capital in Europe.

      But I must leave these scenes and this island, so dear to me from many a pleasing association and reminiscence. Before leaving the city I must, however, again advert to its Cathedral, the neucleus around which it first began to grow. In length this edifice extends from east to west 319 feet. It is 63 feet wide, and its nave rises to [445] 90 feet. Its grand spire towers aloft 225 feet. This stupendous pile is supported by 147 pillars, and enlightened by 159 windows. It has been greatly refitted and improved since I heard Dr. Balfour preach within its then mouldering walls, a most loyal sermon on the text, "Render to Cesar what is Cesar's." He proved himself loyal as well as orthodox in asserting the duty of all to pay their duty to his Majesty, and to be loyal at heart to the august persom and family of GEORGE III. The Doctor was in those days one of the most distinguished of the clergy of Scotland, and withal my personal friend; by whom, as well as by the learned and distinguished Greville Ewing of Carlton Place, once minister of Lady Glenarchy's Chapel, of Edinburgh, then of the Tabernacle in Glasgow, I was introduced to one of the most interesting circles of the truly elite and pious of that city in those days. But they are all gone over to the majority on the other side of the Jordan, Dr. Ralph Wardlaw alone surviving of those I then knew, and occasionally heard from the sacred desk with so much edification and pleasure. Conducted by brother A. Paton, I made a call one evening, seven miles out of the city, at the country residence of Dr. Wardlaw, but was so unfortunate as to learn that he and his family had gone to a watering place fifty miles distant.

      Soon as I began to recover but a little from my prison cold, I prepared to visit Ireland. I spoke but twice in Paisley after my release--spent one evening at brother Paton's and one at brother Stalkers; and on Tuesday evening, the 14th September, accompanied by brother Grey of Edinburgh, a faithful and devoted brother, and brother John Stalker of Glasgow, I set out for Ireland. The evening was cool, but, by the kind attentions and preventives of cold administered by sister Stalker, I made my way to the town of Ayr, receiving no damage. Next morning we sailed for Port Patrick; and after a rough and stormy day and night, we arrived at this old port, where we enjoyed a quiet and refreshing repose.

      Next morning, on preparing to embark for Ireland, we found an equinoctial tempest sporting upon the English Channel, and a sea foaming in a rather too sublime style for our enjoying a trip to "the sweetest isle of the ocean." We prudentially declined so majestic a ride on the back of mountain waves; and my companion, in duty bound to return home, gave me to enjoy the most sequestered day I spent in my whole tour. Unknowing and unknown to a human being within my horizon, I got upon a hill that commanded the sea and the rough coast for many a mile, and sitting down I gazed in inexpressible pleasure upon the grand scene before me.-- [446] The bold, towering, and projecting rocks, like an armed band, guarded the entrance into the only haven in sight. They stood a mighty phalanx, against which the swelling surges dashed impetuous; and, as if in furious strife, because of their presumptuous daring to impede their progress, broke in overwhelming vengeance on their proud summits, covering them with indignant foam. The reverberations of conflicting elements--the winds and waves amidst the rocks, filled the air with deafening sounds of dire portent to those presuming to invade the domains of ancient Neptune, now in conflict with the winds gathering from all the isles of the sea.

      Amid this furious strife of enraged elements her Majesty's steamer appears in the distance, sometimes lifting her proud prow on the back of some huge ocean billow, but suddenly sinking again out of sight, as though buried in some dark cave never again to emerge into this upper world. Pensive and in much suspense, I retired from the scene, and turning my back on the sea and my face to the mountains and hills that appeared in the distance, I found myself in company with the bard of Judah, who on some such occasion sung, "Jehovah reigneth: he is clothed with majesty, wherewith he has girded himself: the world also is established, so that it cannot be moved. Thy throne is established of old. Thou art from everlasting. The floods have lifted, up their voice: O! Jehovah, the floods lift up their waves. The Lord on high is mightier than the noise of many waters; yea, than the mighty waves of the sea."¹ "God is our refuge and strength; a very ready help in trouble. Therefore, we will not fear, though the earth be moved and though the mountains should tremble in the midst of the sea, though the waves thereof roar and foam, though the mountains shake with the swelling thereof."²

      Such scenes are a feast to the soul, and open within us many a fountain of thought and feeling whence health and consolation flow. I returned in the evening of that tempestuous day to my room more refreshed and strengthened than in the morning, and there finished and mailed for you my Letter No. 16, with a postscript of the 16th September. Next morning, after an early breakfast, I visited the port again, found the sea yet very rough, and a good strong breeze; but after some debating with myself, I got my baggage on board and sailed for Donaghadee, where I safely landed in some three hours, and immediately got on the stage, and in three hours more found myself in Belfast.

      How changed the country and how much more changed the city [447] of the North! From some 30,000 souls when I last visited it in 1805, it is now spread abroad over four times the area, with some four times the population! The famine and the pestilence had, however, thrown a gloom over it, and it was not, as I was not, so elate and gay as when I visited its infant institutions more than forty years ago.

      Brother Henshall met my engagements here. On his arrival he found that the Rev. Mr. Nelson had redeemed the pledge that Mr. Robertson had staked for him--viz. that he would see to it that I would not have a favorable hearing in Belfast. In anticipation of my arrival, the town was placarded in Edinburgh and Glasgow style. A large concourse on the evening appointed for me, had, notwithstanding, assembled--clergy and laity, gentle and simple, all ranks and castes were in attendance. From all quarters, on my arrival in Ireland, I heard but one voice--that brother Henshall was equal to the occasion, and gave a clear expose of the matter on hand, as well as our views of original Christianity. After his discourse he was assailed by the Anti-Slavery men--the Rev. Mr. Nelson himself appearing on the arena. On being asked for my views of American slavery, Mr. Henshall responded that, as I was not present, he would not presume to state my views, but would give his own, if desired, and answer any questions that might be propounded pertinent to them. His remarks were so judicious and convincing that many present clearly saw that he occupied the vantage ground. Mr. Nelson saw it too, and felt it so keenly that he sought to make a diversion on the subject of religion and certain popular leaders to abstract the auditory's attention from himself. This failing, public feeling and public indications ceased to be ambiguous, and Mr. Nelson and his resolute cohort were compelled to give way, while brother Henshall left the arena with evident triumph and the high consideration and respect of the assembly. So matters stood in Belfast.--Meantime, the hope of meeting a few of my appoinments in the interior, and the state of my health, together with what had been done in Belfast by my friends and my opponents, induced me to pass over next morning to the counties of Tyrone and Armagh.

      When leaving Glasgow I placed a portion of my baggage under the care of sister Euphemia Dron, who, via Greenock, was about to visit her relatives in Belfast--sister Gilmore and family. The steamer being at sea during the storm before mentioned, I felt solicitous to learn her fortune. While attending to some business in an office in Belfast, I heard some one inquire, "Any news from the Glasgow steamer?" "No news" was the response. I felt, of course, [448] excited to inquire, Had she not arrived? "No, sir," was the response, "and nothing heard from her although due almost two days!" You may imagine my feelings better than I can describe them. I hastened to Mrs. Gilmore's, and on finding her residence inquired as to her information and expectation. The reputation of the Captain of the steamer for prudence and discretion, together with the information that a steamer was announced as within sight of the city, allayed my fears and inspired me with the hope of a favorable issue. The evening brought us all together, in company with Elder Foster and some of his family, at the residence of Mrs. Gilmore, and was spent in agreeable conversation, full of grateful reminiscences of the past and in pleasing anticipations of the future. It appeared that the Captain of the Glasgow and Belfast Steamer, caught in the storm, being overladen with passengers, some of whom in danger of being carried off the deck, returned about twenty miles to Greenock, and landed a portion of them. Then, by lying to under the lee side of a mountain, he succeeded in riding the storm and in making good the desired port only some two days after the usual time. Next morning, accompanied with three ladies--sisters Dron and Gilmores--we took passage in the rail cars to Portadown, on our way to Dungannon and Moree, and safely arrived at our destiny that same evening. Belfast being in Antrim, my native county, I left it after a single night, with some reluctance, and more especially as I had not only failed to speak there, but an appointment at Ballymena, near Shane's Castle, the place of my nativity, some twelve miles from Belfast, had been frustrated by my detention in Glasgow.

      As I passed along the southern side of Lough Neagh, I frequently cast a longing and anxious look across to descry, if possible, any indications of the ancient and beautiful castle. I either had, or thought I had, a glimpse of that most fascinating spot, and probably enjoyed as much as though all doubt had been removed on the subject.

      I had the pleasure a few days after, on inquiry, to learn that some portions of my mother's family still resided on the premises occupied by the family ever since their exile from France in 1685.

      You are conversant with the Huguenots or French Protestants, who, on the revocation of the Edict of Nantz, passed in 1598, and annulled by Louis XIV. in 1685, suffered so much, not only in the massacre of St. Bartholomew's day in 1572 and some thirty days after, in which 30,000 persons were slain; but also in 1681, when [449] some half million of them were exiled to Switzerland, Germany, Holland, England, and Ireland. Amongst these exiles, as tradition goes, were my mother's people--a large connexion of whom, named Corneigles and Boners, purchased one township of land in the north of Ireland, bordering on Lough Neagh, some of whom still live on the lands of their exiled ancestors.

      In my travels I have occasionally fallen in with the descendants of these ancient Protestants--Calvinists, indeed, they are, though nicknamed Huguenots--and have uniformly found them not only devoted Protestants, but generally great advocates for Bible Christianity. In Kentucky, Virginia, and in divers other places, I find them generally in the current reformation, emphatically distinguished for its advocacy of the Bible alone as the only authoritative rule of faith and manners.

      For my own part, I confess that I feel more pride, I had better said pleasure, in being descended from an ancestry distinguished because of their respect for the Bible and their sufferings for it, than I could feel on account of an ancestry adorned with "the boast of heraldry and the pomp of power."

      Still neither faith nor honor run in the blood nor in any lineage of earth. Yet if there has been noted by an Apostle an "unfeigned faith" running through three generations, why may we not suppose it possible to extend even to the seventh or the tenth? But my sheet is full, and I must leave something for another letter from Ireland. Farewell!!

[The Millennial Harbinger, Third Series, 5 (August 1848): 443-450.]