APRIL 28, 1854, I left Adelaide in the steamer Havilah for the purpose of joining the Golden Age at Melbourne, the fare for this short trip being £10 10s. After the usual noise and confusion attending the starting of a steamer, we gently glided from the Port, the screw noiselessly propelling us along. In the evening we proceeded down the Gulf, and went through Backstairs Passage in the night. Next morning, being inclined, but unable from weakness and the effects of sea-sickness, to go on deck, I lay quietly in my cabin, envying some little children who were running about the saloon and enjoying themselves. The steward occasionally paid me a visit to see if I was in want of anything, but, in this dilemma, my wants were soon supplied. I enquired if there were any other passengers suffering like myself, and he informed me that one or two of my own sex, and nearly all the ladies, were in the same unpleasant predicament. In the night I looked out of my cabin window and saw the brilliant light on Cape Otway--a bold point of land along the coast, on which is erected a lighthouse. It is no doubt the best way, when passengers are able to do so, to get on deck and keep there as much as possible. The following day I made an unsuccessful attempt to get on deck, and only succeeded on the third day in time to see the vessel enter Hobson's Bay; and, at the same moment, saw the Golden Age entering from an opposite direction.

      On arriving at the wharf at Melbourne we were welcomed by a host of porters, who seized our luggage and wanted to convey it away, with or without our consent. One of these carried part of [139] my luggage to an hotel, for which kindness he wanted to charge 8s. I paid him 6s., and afterwards found he was only entitled to 3s. Before leaving Adelaide I had been recommended to go to the Golden Fleece, in Bourke Street; but enquiry at this hotel elicited the information that it was full. As the day was too far advanced to search for another place, at my request the landlord allowed me to occupy one of the rooms for the night, without bed or bedding. This particular apartment, I afterwards found, was used as a dormitory by some of the men connected with the hotel. Late in the evening, when these arrived, their appearance did not create a favorable impression; but I stretched myself on the floor as they did, and endeavored to compose my mind for sleep. This, however, it soon became evident I was not to enjoy. A door of the room communicated with a passage, and for some time footsteps could be heard backwards and forwards; and as it was raining the sounds were more distinct. I did not apprehend any harm from the rain, nor from those walking about in it; but while these sounds were keeping me awake, I felt a hand pass over my face, and immediately jumped up. A door led into the dining-room, and beyond this was the bar, which I made for with all haste, just as the landlord was closing for the night. There were some diggers in the bar, and I must have looked a little scared. Telling the landlord that I did not like my quarters, he evidently caught at the cause of the discomfiture, and said that if I had any money about me, I had better let him have it, and he would keep it in safety. This placed me in a difficulty, for there was more money on my person than perhaps should have been carried, but it seemed unwise to expose it before the men in the bar. The fact is that a number of sovereigns were sewn singly in a flannel band that could not be handled without undressing. I asked the landlord to allow me to share the bar parlor with the seven or eight diggers, who, like myself, intended to lie on the floor or on chairs. Boniface smiled, and the diggers fairly laughed at the request, asking me whether I was not afraid to be in their company. On being assured that I was not, they seemed pleased at my apparent confidence in them. I took possession of two or three chairs, and lay on these waiting for daylight, which seemed a long time in coming. The diggers preferred the floor, and beyond their snoring the only sound that reached me in the night was the cry of "Murder!" in the street, which, it turned out next day, was something more than a cry. Such was the state of Melbourne in 1854, that it was not safe to be in the street after dusk. [140] Next morning I breakfasted at the hotel, and afterwards had some interesting conversation with a man who had been a convict in Van Diemen's Land; and who appeared disposed to lead a new life. My luggage was removed to Tankard's Temperance Hotel, and, though it was pretty full, I got a bed in a room with a respectable lodger. This person knew a good deal about Panama, and gave me some advice, which, had it been followed, would have saved me many pounds, as well as my luggage. This is a clear proof that Providence was overshadowing me, and but for my own self-will, and the influence of a fellow-traveller, the serious loss which will presently be referred to would not have been sustained.

      I have mentioned the providence of God, which I felt on leaving home I should experience in all my wanderings; and would also make mention of the many prayers that were offered up on my behalf by the relatives and kind friends left behind. I was informed by letter while in Melbourne that, at the weekly meeting at the Rev. W. J. Woodcock's, special prayers were offered for me; but no reference was made to the probable change in my religious views. The communications I received while away were a source of comfort, assuring me of the deep interest that was taken in my physical and spiritual welfare. In the first letter from my mother (while still in Melbourne) she said: "I have tried in vain to find words calculated to express my gratitude and love to you for all your affectionate endeavors to assist me in my parental duties. This, added to your own loving and dutiful conduct, must ever be a source of the greatest blessing in your own breast; and I trust the example may be of service to others. I must earnestly beg of you to relax somewhat in your writing, and for my sake, and the sake of many more, use every endeavor to promote your health. We have only, then, to cast ourselves on Him who is able to keep both our bodies and souls; with the full assurance that your steps will lead to that 'peace which passeth all understanding.' This gives me great hopes of being spared to see some of the fruits, as well as the blossoms, of your labors. Be assured that, so long as he that standeth in Christ is able to say 'Get thee behind me, Satan,' so sure will God in His mercy hold him up. The separation has cost me something, but I hope many will gain by it. Moses was entrusted to a very frail bark--yours, I hear, is a large and very splendid one; and I, with many others, will pray that our Heavenly Father may see fit, in His good pleasure, to grant you a pleasant voyage and quick return to Adelaide." This letter was [141] very encouraging, and it pleased me to think that I was leaving my home and my adopted country with a good character from my parent and with so many good wishes. I may here state that, from the time of starting from Adelaide till my return, I never for a moment mistrusted the providence of God; but felt that I was in "the path of duty, which is the path of safety."

      A day or two in Melbourne was quite sufficient for me, and having taken passage in the steamship Golden Age, commanded by Captain Porter, I proceeded down the Yarra in one of the launches, which was loaded with passengers. The steamer proved to be all that had been represented, and was capable of carrying about 300 cabin and 600 steerage passengers. Soon after my arrival on board I observed a large number of boats approaching us. These I found contained the officers of Government, and influential persons, escorting His Excellency, Mr. C. J. Latrobe, who was proceeding to England via Panama. The Governor was received on board with cheering and firing of guns; and as the steamer proceeded down the bay, many of the vessels hoisted their flags, which afforded an admirable opportunity for seeing their different nationalities. We came to an anchor for the night, and next morning steamed along the coast, which was scarcely lost sight of all the way to Sydney. The entrance to Botany Bay was passed at sundown the second day out, and soon afterwards we arrived off the Heads. The approach to Port Jackson is through a narrow opening in the high rocks, which extend for some distance on either side. After passing a pretty bay inside the Heads, we got a glimpse of part of the city by moonlight. Proceeding up the noble harbor, which is completely landlocked, and has a sufficient depth of water and capacity for receiving the fleets of all nations, we came to anchor a little distance from the shore.

      During our stay in Sydney I was introduced to Mr. (afterwards Sir) Henry Parkes, and as we were of very similar occupations there was an interchange of thought upon public matters. There was one striking dissimilarity between Mr. Parkes and myself, inasmuch as he had a large, massive head, and mine was a very small one--so small that I sometimes had a difficulty in procuring a hat to suit. I would not be at all surprised to learn that this man who was to develop into the great statesman experienced alike difficulty by reason of the immensity of his cranium. It is not improbable that some may account for my "contracted" views on some subjects to the foregoing fact; and as I am not responsible for my limited brain capacity, due allowance will no doubt be made. [142] We left Sydney on Thursday morning, May 11, and while the anchor was being weighed a few of the morning newspapers were brought on board, which sold at a high premium. A Scotch gentleman on board was a customer for a newspaper I had for sale at a moderate advance on the published price. He afterwards told me that he was drawn towards me on account of my reasonable terms; and we became fellow-travellers and friends till we parted at New York. Even after that we corresponded with each other, and he did me a good turn by helping me in time of need. The Sydney people, I think, must have been under the impression that we had dropped down the harbor the previous evening, or those who were in the habit of visiting ships on their arrival and departure, to dispose of commodities and the earliest and latest newspapers, would have paid us a visit; but as it was, the final trading was left to a few boatmen, who hurried to and from the landing-place till the anchor was tripped, the whistle sounded, and the paddle-wheels put into motion. The whistle appeared to have attracted the attention of several citizens, who hastened to the heights to witness our departure. We passed silently down the harbor for some distance. As we approached the anchorage of the large ships, a salute was fired, the vessels hoisting and dipping their flags as we passed. The pilot, who had accompanied us from Melbourne, left us at the Heads. Two parting shots were fired from the ship, and the passengers gave three cheers, which were returned from the pilot-boat's crew. We now put out to sea with sails set to a gentle breeze in our favor. When we got outside the harbor, the hatches were opened, and I saw two or three men lying beneath them, confined in chains. It appeared that the sailors, and others of the ship's company, had an objection to the voyage to the Isthmus of Panama; and without consulting the convenience of the captain, or of anyone but themselves, had determined, if possible, not to go. While, therefore, the captain and officers were busily engaged making final arrangements, a large number--eighteen, I was afterwards informed--made their escape. The men who were now released from bondage were the unlucky ones who had been caught in the act and secured. The captain, having everything ready to sail, did not, it appears, think it well to detain the vessel for the other runaways, preferring to put to sea shorthanded as he was. The land was in sight all day, but in the evening we began to leave it far behind, and many, doubtless, took a last view of the coast of Australia. [143]

      Next day, the 12th, we had a fine day and a favorable breeze, but very few availed themselves of the genial influence of either; they were overcome by the irresistible effects of the motion of the vessel, and preferred, under these circumstances, the quiet of their berths to the most delightful sea-breeze. I could sympathise with such, being, if not like-minded, at least in a similar unpleasant situation.

      On Saturday, the 13th, we sighted and passed Howe's Island. There were four families, comprising about twenty persons, who resided on this pretty little island, which stands up like a rock in the ocean. By this time most of us had recovered from our temporary indisposition, and could enjoy life at sea, so far as it is enjoyable. The Golden Age being a paddle steamer, and having her machinery on the upper deck, rolled far more than was agreeable.

      On Sunday, the 14th, we had as fine a morning as could be desired. The sea was nearly calm, and a few light clouds floated above the horizon; but, under the most favorable circumstances, those who have been accustomed regularly to attend a place of worship and enjoy the privilege of Christian fellowship onshore, feel something wanting on such days as these at sea. The following lines, though truthful, cannot always be realised, when the associations of home and the company of those we have been accustomed to meet in the house of prayer are wanting:--

      There was service in the saloon, but as it was not generally made known through the ship, the attendance was not so large as it probably would have been had the usual notice of the time and place been made more public. The service was conducted by a clergyman of the Church of England, and one of the ladies presided at the harmonium. There seemed to be a little dissatisfaction amongst some of the passengers on account of this service being made, to all appearance, so exclusive.

      On Monday, May 15, we sighted Norfolk Island, which was at that time the ocean prison-house of the doubly-convicted felon and the vilest of the vile from the former convict settlements of New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land. This island is distant about a thousand miles from Sydney. It is, I think, [144] about fourteen miles in circumference. It is extremely healthy, and produces grain, vegetables, oranges, and other fruits in abundance. A beautiful tree grows here called the Norfolk Island Pine, which is a favorite in the artificial shrubberies of Australia. As we passed by the island, I observed several of these trees towering above others and looking like sentinels, with arms extended, on the heights. There is but one good landing-place, the coast consisting of rocks rising nearly perpendicularly from the sea, so that the chances of escape were very few; but some of these desperadoes actually made the attempt at various times, and in a few instances were successful. On two or three occasions they boarded ships lying there, murdered some of the officers and crew, and made off with the vessels. A friend on board informed me that once a boat's crew sent off with vegetables seized a vessel, and made for the northern coast of Australia. Here they landed, and robbed and plundered some stations along the coast, but were ultimately captured in a state of exhaustion. One would almost imagine that these people could have little desire to leave such a delightful spot; but the beauties of Nature, I suppose, have little attraction for these depraved people--indeed, the sublimity of the spot probably only adds to the misery of their confinement upon it, as their minds can be so little in unison with the beautiful works of the Creator. As we left Norfolk Island we had a glimpse of the landing-place, which is on the east side of the island, and above it a fine green lawn or field appeared, with some long white buildings in the rear. Some time after we saw this remarkable island, it was handed over by the British Government to the inhabitants of Pitcairn Island, which was too limited for the increased number of its interesting populace. In the evening we had a fine view of the moon rising, it being near the full. When there are no clouds, and the water is not very rough, the moon or sun, rising or setting at sea, looks like a ball of fire floating for a few moments on the surface.

      The next two or three days we had nothing particular to notice, except the rolling of the ship, which, as the wind at times blew fresh, was rather disagreeable. This more than ordinary motion was accounted for on the ground that, so many men having left us at Sydney, the coal was stowed on the second deck instead of on the third.

      On Wednesday, May 17, it was reported that we had passed the antipodes of the meridian of Greenwich, and that we had gained a day. Some, however, were rather doubtful that in travelling so short a distance we had gained so much time; [145] indeed, I was not quite satisfied myself that such was the case, until, on arrival at Tahiti a few days afterwards, I enquired what day it was there, and was told it was Thursday, May 25. I found then, by adding another Wednesday, dating it the same, the days came right. On the second Wednesday the captain expected to pass a reef, and a sharp look-out was kept ahead.

      On Thursday, May 18, we sighted two or three vessels in the morning; one of them looked like a steamer, but it is more likely that she was a whaler, and that the smoke we saw was from the furnace used for trying-down the oil. In the afternoon a vessel appeared, bearing down towards us; she proved to be a whaler, forty days out from Sydney. Captain Porter threw a bundle of Sydney newspapers overboard, which the whaler lowered its boat to fetch; and though the papers would be rather damp by the time they were picked up, they would doubtless be highly prized, and beguile many of the weary hours those men spent upon the deep. We saw some flying-fish, and shoals of porpoises; indeed, scarcely a day passed but numbers of the former were to be seen.

      On Saturday, May 20, there appeared some doubt as to whether this was Saturday or Sunday. Not being quite sure myself that the next day would be regarded as Sunday, I determined to observe this day as well as I could; many other passengers also observed it as the Lord's-day. The cooks were evidently not aware of the fact that the day had been altered, for they prepared the usual Sunday plum-puddings.

      Next day, the 21st, I afterwards found was observed as Sunday in the saloon, where the clergyman officiated as on the previous Lord's-day. The wind came on to blow pretty strong, and the top-gallant yard was sent down. We sighted land in the morning, and were abreast of it about four in the afternoon. This was the Island of Raratonga. We had an excellent view of it, as we passed within a short distance of the shore. It had a very picturesque appearance. From the beach, on which we observed some natives and their canoes, the land (for the most part thickly-wooded) rises at a gentle elevation to the foot of the mountains, which also appeared well-wooded and covered with green to the very summits. These mountains are of almost every shape and size, and those towards the centre of the island are very high. Two or three looked like volcanoes, and for the most part they appeared to have been subjected to some violent convulsion of nature, and to have been cast up in huge masses one above another. In some places their sides are naked and perpendicular rocks, presenting a striking contrast to the rich foliage [146] and herbage in other parts. As we passed the farther extremity of the island we saw the missionary station, a neat-looking church, and a long range of white buildings.

      On Monday, May 22, the wind still being strong, and the ship rolling considerably, the foreyard was sent down to ease her as much as possible. We passed a ship which had left Tahiti for Sydney a few days previous to our arrival there. Before leaving Adelaide I had calculated on getting through a great deal of reading and quiet study; but I found that what my friend, Mr. E. S. Wigg, told me was quite true. He said that life at sea was not favorable for study, and such was my experience. I do not know how to account for the fact, as I had plenty of time and nothing to distract my attention particularly; but suppose that what is called "light" reading is better adapted for a sea voyage. I had no taste for this literature, and so took none with me.

      On Wednesday, May 24, as we expected to reach Tahiti on the morrow, the anchor and guns were got ready; but as we were in an American ship, there was no demonstration of loyalty to our British Sovereign on this, her natal day. We had a fiddler on board, who accommodated himself to the circumstances in which he found himself placed. The passengers represented not only America, but England, Ireland, and Scotland; and to serve them all alike, without favor or partiality, he usually played the national airs of these several countries one after the other. By this means he secured the patronage of, and took contributions from, all.

      On Thursday, May 25, soon after daylight, we sighted the Island of Morea. The rain fell heavily, and above us there was one dense mass of dark clouds. These, passing over, presented to view the Island of Tahiti, which, with Mores, and its southern extremity, looking like another island, had the appearance of three distinct islands. The scene behind us for some little time was as animating as that before, as, in addition to the black clouds, there were several waterspouts, which lasted some minutes. These gradually extended at that part nearest the clouds, while the lower portion retained a cylindrical form. The Island of Morea, like that of Raratonga, consists of a number of mountains, rising one above another, in a variety of shapes. The peaks of the highest, at the time we passed, were enveloped in clouds. There is one singular piece of rock on this island, of immense height, looking like a huge monument or obelisk.

      Tahiti, as we approached it, looked like a chain of very high mountains, taking their rise immediately from the water's edge. [147] These elevations have each a number of gullies, running down in the direction of the sea, as if the watercourses of ages had made channels for themselves. At the bottom of an immense gorge or valley, down which a river seemed to flow, stood some houses, and we could perceive smoke curling upwards amidst the trees. After passing this valley a still larger one appeared, the mountains on each side being probably some thousands of feet high, and besides these a number of smaller hills and valleys. This opening. I was informed, led into other passes that penetrated far into the island. There are two or three similar entrances to the interior.

      Passing around the Island of Tahiti, the Bay and harbor of Papeete appeared, with its long coral reef running far out into the sea. As we neared this interesting settlement, the excitement on board increased. Our colors--French, English, and American were displayed, and the signal fired for a pilot, who soon made his appearance, rowed by four natives. We then entered the narrow passage between the two reefs of coral, and steamed up the bay, passing the pretty little island just inside the reef, which is covered with cocoanut and other trees, and has a small battery of, guns upon it. The houses were next seen along the beach. Being for the more part of wood, painted white, and surrounded and shaded with green of every tone, they had a very inviting appearance. Groups of natives, as well as Europeans, stood on the shore, looking at our monster vessel--the largest, probably, they had ever seen. There were about a dozen boats lying at anchor in the harbor, including three French men-of-war, two American and three English ships.

      We anchored within about a mile of the shore, and were soon surrounded by a number of natives, whose canoes were loaded with fruit of various kinds. It was some time before these men could get on board, and in the interval a rather novel incident occurred. The vent for the discharge of the surplus steam was suddenly opened, and the steam shot out, hissing and roaring upon the water's edge for a considerable distance. The natives whose canoes were in a line with the rush of vapor appeared panic-stricken. One of their crafts was capsized, and its attendant and cargo thrown into the sea; the owner of another, as if anxious to escape with his life, jumped into the water, leaving his property to the mercy of the steam and sea. The fright was soon over, and the canoes were again re-occupied by their owners, who were almost as expert in the water as many are upon the land. As soon as the natives could bring their fruit on board, it was eagerly purchased; the charge for oranges and vees was a [148] franc, or shilling, for about two dozen--bananas, cocoanuts, pineapples, etc., in proportion.

      About an hour after our arrival the steamer was visited by the principal officers of the French government; and Capt. Porter, on landing, had an interview with Queen Pomare. It was evident the French Governor was disposed to render every assistance to the captain in getting the coal on board. He allowed the French war steamer to go down the harbor and tow up one of the vessels loaded with coal for our ship; and also interested himself in furnishing the captain with a large number of natives to assist in transhipping it. About 150 were engaged to work day and night, in watches, much to the furtherance of our speedy departure, but not much to the comfort of those on board who were desirous of a quiet night's rest--the songs and shouts of the natives rendering nature's sweet repose impossible.

      I landed in the afternoon in one of the boats plying between the steamer and the wooden jetties or wharves. The charge was a franc each way. It is usually sixpence, but of course the boatmen and others made preparation and calculation for the Golden Age. One of the shrewd hotel-keepers had actually put up a sign, with the name of the steamer in letters sufficiently large to be, read from her deck. My first impression of the natives (the females in particular) was anything but favorable--not in respect to their features, for they mostly had intelligent and pleasing countenances--but there was a levity in their manner which plainly indicated the loose state of morals among them. I was afterwards informed, on good authority, that it was almost impossible for those who had known the advances these natives had made in the knowledge of the Scriptures, and in practical Christianity, to convince themselves that the beings they saw so much altered for the worse were the same as they had been accustomed to see receiving Christian instruction, and attending regularly the religious services at the mission chapel.

      The buildings facing the bay commence at the eastern extremity with a dockyard and coalyard; then follow hotels and stores for a considerable distance. Next to these, extending westward, are most of the public buildings. These consist of a post office, police office, barracks, workshops, storehouses, the residences of the English and American Consuls, the Bethel Chapel, native chapel and schoolhouse, mission-house and printing office, and, at a distance from the latter, the battery.

      Only a very imperfect idea of the extent of the town can be had from the deck of a ship in the harbor. The thick foliage [149] around and at the back of the buildings skirting the beach appears to extend to the foot of the mountains, a few miles distant; but, in walking along the beach, narrow streets disclose to view the principal part of the town. These avenues at first appear to lead to numerous gardens, with houses here and there, but on walking down one of them for a short distance I came to a street or road running parallel with the beach, in which were shops, hotels, and some neat and pretty wooden houses surrounded with beautiful flower and fruit gardens. In the eastern part of this first street from the beach is the market, consisting of two sheds, for the sale of fruit and vegetables. As the season had not been a very good one, the supply was small and prices unusually high. Between the two sheds there is an iron fountain and ladle. Similar fountains are placed at the corners of some of the streets, from which a fine clear stream of water flows continually. There appeared to be an abundance of water in every direction, and a stream ran down most of the streets into the sea. There is a Roman Catholic chapel not far distant from the market. Further to the westward, and, looking down an opening towards the bay, stands the Governor's house--a neat concrete building two storeys high, with a garden, lawn, and fountain in front. A new house was building for the Governor, not far distant from the old one. Its appearance was rather singular. It was of coral, with a deep verandah and balcony on each side, supported by pillars. The upper part was surmounted by a large metal cupola. In an enclosure adjoining Government House stands the residence of Queen Pomare. That part of the street leading to Government House is entered by a strong gate, just inside of which is the arsenal, with some heavy guns and heaps of cannon-balls. There is an embankment thrown up around these Government buildings, on which a few guns are mounted. The street above-mentioned is called Broom Road, and extends for a considerable distance round the island. To the westward from Government House it leads to the French hospital, convent, botanical gardens, brick-yards, battery, and burial-ground. There is abridge just before coming to the battery, crossing a river which, flowing down by the side of the embankment, empties itself into the sea. The entrance to the fort from the road is through a garden and a grove of trees. Only eight guns were mounted, but they were of very heavy calibre. Nearly opposite the entrance is a path leading to the cemetery, which is situated in a secluded spot surrounded on three sides by mountains or hills. Facing the entrance is a large stone monument, erected to the memory of the [150] French slain in battle with the Tahitians. Some of the graves had railings round, and were tastefully ornamented with flowers. At the foot of one inscription, recording the loss of two infants at the ages of one and two years, was a glass case containing two pretty wreaths of flowers. Several of the inscriptions were on wooden crosses; and one, to the memory of a lieutenant, was ingeniously cast in iron, the open letters of the inscription forming part of the casting of the cross. Many of the graves had sunk in, and the railings had fallen down. This was the original French burial-ground-the English one adjoining the chapel; but about 1850 the French cemetery was appointed as the place of interment for all, whether French, English, or Tahitian. The Government, up to the time of my visit, had not made any charge for burial, nor appointed any person to keep the cemetery in order. It is pleasantly shaded with orange and other trees.

      The first object of attraction on landing, the day after our arrival, was a trial--or rather, the fining of a number of natives for some transgression of the law. A stout and aged Tahitian, who acted as magistrate, was sitting under a verandah, with a small desk in front of him, and holding a book and pencil in his hand. His dress was something similar to that of a policeman. The names of the culprits, who were males and females to the number of about twenty, were called one by one, and, on their walking forward and paying the fine imposed, a certain mark was put in the book. There was neither fending nor proving, but a sullen look or laugh generally followed the payment of the fine. These natives had no doubt received their firstfruits from the arrival of the Golden Age, and, like many other foolish persons who acquire money easily in the land of gold, had determined to spend what they had earned in a carousal. At the western extremity of the town, near to the battery, and in the midst of a thick grove of trees, where many of the natives reside, the gendarmes had come suddenly and unexpectedly upon those who were bent upon revelry and glee; and as the French did not allow their unwilling subjects any great degree of Christian liberty or anti-Christian enjoyments, so as many of those as could be caught, who had purchased intoxicating drinks and were using them too freely, were taken into custody and shut up in the calabouse all night. The fine inflicted for drunkenness was two dollars, or, in the event of non-payment, so many days' work upon the road.

      The first two or three years after the French conquered the Tahitians, the former prohibited as far as possible the sale of [151] intoxicating drinks to the latter. This was doubtless a wise precaution on the part of the French for their own safety, as the Tahitians might, under the influence of strong drink, have taken revenge upon their rulers, but it was a measure opposed to the interests of France, and one that will, probably, as the French feel themselves more secure, be modified or entirely repealed.

      Every precaution was taken to prevent an outbreak of the natives. The passengers of ships lying in the harbor were not allowed to take their firearms ashore, and consequently the natives could not become possessed of them. Every evening at eight o'clock a cannon was fired from one of the men-of-war lying in the harbor, after which any aboriginal found abroad from his home was taken up and put into the calabouse. Another gun at four o'clock in the morning gives them liberty to go where their occupation or inclination prompts. The firing of guns, the beating of drums, and the sound of the bugles morning and evening, clearly indicated that Tahiti was a naval and military station. These warlike sounds echoed through the villages and mountains far into the interior of the island.

      Shortly after landing I called upon the Rev. Mr. Howe, the agent of the London Missionary Society, who kindly gave me much information respecting the state and prospects of the Tahiti Mission. His report was an unfavorable one, as might have been anticipated from the events that had taken place there during the few previous years. Not only had the missionaries had to contend against the baneful effects of war, but against the immoral influence of a resident and stationary military and naval force. Add to this the occasional visits of whalers, and ships calling to and from Australia and California with large numbers of gold-diggers; and then there is no cause for wonder that this once thriving mission station had become as immoral as it once was virtuous. But, in addition to the evil influences above mentioned, there had to be taken into account the prohibitions and restrictions imposed upon the missionaries, preventing them from exercising that moral influence they once could, without opposition or danger. Many interesting works have been written detailing the labors of the first missionaries to the islands of the Pacific; the dangers to which they were frequently exposed, and the success which attended their efforts, after much patient toil, to become familiar with the language, habits, and customs of the various heathen tribes.

      The missionaries commenced their work in Tahiti at the beginning of the present century, and Mr. Davies, one of the [152] first, who was sent out in the year 1800, was at the time of my visit resident on the island, at Papara, a few miles from Papeete. He was both blind and infirm with age, and, with the exception of an occasional visit from Mr. Howe, might almost be said to have taken leave of this world. It was well, perhaps, that he was spared from seeing much that would doubtless have caused hint sorrow, though he must have heard of the vice and immorality of his erstwhile virtuous and happy people. An old resident whom I met at the Mission-house, in describing the altered state of the island in almost every respect, especially its moral condition, said, "Tahiti was once a garden; it is now a wilderness."

      Some of the people of Tahiti, as well as some of the other islands, are sincerely attached to the Word of God. This I had proofs of during my short stay. Between the years 1847 and 1854 it appears the people of Tahiti remitted the sum of £1,000 to the funds of the British and Foreign Bible Society for the edition of the Tahitian Scriptures sent out to them. During the year 1853, 3,000 copies of the Tahitian New Testament were sent by this society for distribution at Tahiti and the Society Islands. The London Missionary Society also furnished 7,000 copies of the Tahitian Hymn-book, which were highly prized. This was the brightest ray of hope for the future.

      The silent missionary at Papeete occupied a most important, though somewhat painful and self-denying, position. Had he accepted the office of preacher or pastor in any district, his labors would have been almost exclusively confined to that district; whereas at that time he could supply the whole of the island with books and such publications as he was allowed to print. I was pleased to see the messengers from the native teachers, located in different parts of the island, come to him for supplies of Bibles, Testaments, and school-books. They generally brought notes written in their own language, and their kind and affectionate manner, and the delight with which they received the books, was very pleasing. Then there was the mission press, which I was sorry to find almost at a standstill for want of labor. Being a printer, I was proud to render what little assistance was possible during my stay. The permission of the French Governor had to be procured before anything could be circulated by this means. Had he been free from Romish influence, there would probably not have been much opposition in this quarter; but the Roman Catholic Bishop had manifested a strong desire to arrest the progress of truth in whatever form it might be presented, and still further opposition was expected. Unless from interested [153] motives, or from fear, there is not much probability of the natives becoming converts to the Romish religion, for those whom they regarded as their enemies and oppressors were so nearly associated with it that they liked the one about as much as the other. The nature and extent of the oppression the Tahitians were subjected to by the French protectorate may not generally be known. The arbitrary laws of the latter were more grievously felt because mostly enforced by chiefs and others whom the French had placed in authority, and who had thus forfeited the regard of their countrymen for the sake of honor and emolument. After the Tahitian had tilled the ground, and the earth had yielded its increase, the produce had to be divided into five parts, one part only going to the producer. The other four parts were appropriated for protection, administration of the laws, for the chief of the district, and for the support of the hospital. By this and other means, the produce and revenue of the country passed through the hands of the French; and the natives were thus taught to regard their rulers, not only as the receivers, but as the givers of all that their country produces or their nature requires. But this was not all that the Tahitians were subjected to. When there were roads to be made, they had to make them--leaving the field or the sport for the time. The making of these roads was a mode of punishment for nearly all offences when the fine was not forthcoming; but the innocent, at times, were no less free than the guilty.

      The land at Papeete, I was informed, was principally held on lease, but some had latterly been offered for sale. A notice had just appeared in the French paper, stating that all lands not fenced--in would be considered as unclaimed and unsold. The land available for cultivation is very limited in extent; but the arable soil is mostly of a dark color, rich, and well watered. The principal articles of export are oranges, cocoanuts, and lime, lemon, and citron juices, etc. The French, however, are bad colonists, and lack energy and perseverance in developing the resources of the country.

      While at Tahiti I took a walk one day with a fellow-passenger into the interior. We first went for a mile or two along the Broom Road, on each side of which for some distance were gardens and land under cultivation. We then turned off into a narrow road, cut through a forest of guava and other fruit trees, and shrubs of various kinds. The guava, though but lately introduced, had overrun the country for a considerable distance, and threatened in some parts to choke everything else. About [154] four or five miles from Papeete we passed a small native village or two, and soon after came upon a river, running swiftly over large smooth stones. As we proceeded up the valley along which it flowed, the road was shaded by fine orange and bread-fruit trees, and the mountains on either side became more elevated. Under the orange trees fine ripe fruit lay on the ground; and as it was so plentiful, I sucked the juice and threw the pulp away. Multitudes of small lizards disported in the leaves by the roadside, and little streams of water issued from the sides of the rocks, and were lost again among the green bushes. At each turn in the road the scenery became more wild and beautiful. Sometimes, on looking up, the cliffs appeared to rise perpendicularly, like a wall, for several hundred feet, and a few huge summits projected, as though threatening destruction to those beneath. Again, other hills reached a similar altitude by gradual ascent, and were covered and crowned with trees and shrubs. The beauty of this mountain scenery was heightened occasionally by waterfalls issuing from the tops of the rocks, at times half-hidden from view by green foliage, and running in gentle streams, or anon, meeting with some obstruction, foaming and falling in snowy cascades. Now and then a wild pigeon would flit across the heights; but, with such exceptions, still, sublime, solitary Nature reigned supreme. At the head of the valley the outlook was truly grand. The mountains formed a vast amphitheatre, enclosing a peak upwards of 1,000 feet high. Crossing a bridge over the river, we now took a mountain pass, and met a few guides with their mules, which are generally hired to parties visiting the Fort. After an ascent of about a mile in length a view was obtained of the little blockhouse, with the French flag flying, and two or three of the guards sitting around. The house is near the edge of a vertical rock of immense height. On one side there is a fine waterfall, which is lost in small clouds of pure white spray ere it reaches the level of the valley. On the other hand is the pass on the side of the mountain, leading to the fort.

      This Fort was the place where the French captured the Tahitians. The latter were on the heights, and the former in the valley; and it was a matter of no small surprise to me, as it doubtless has been to others, how the Tahitians, in such a position, could have been overcome. I was afterwards informed that the success of the French was entirely through the treachery of a native chief. The Fort was on a small plateau, commanding an extensive view of the valley and the mountains on the other side. At the back of the Fort were a few houses (the residences of the [155] French officers) surrounded with neat gardens, containing, besides vegetables, many pretty flowers. This little cultivated spot had a singular appearance, encircled as it was by such wild scenes of nature. The mountain by which this plateau is reached rises between 200 and 300 feet higher, and it is said the summit can be seen from the bay; the French were making a path up to it, in order to be able to hoist a flag and telegraph if necessary. We were told that the winding path up this short distance would be about a mile in length. On the opposite side of the plateau a French guide conducted us down a flight of steps, cut in the earth, to a natural reservoir; the continual overflow of the water from this forms the fall which was seen coming up to the Fort. The water has here first formed a cave, and then a basin; the depth of the latter is about eighteen feet, and as the sun never penetrates into this recess, the water is delightfully cool and refreshing. It flows into an outer basin before falling over the mountain. Our guide informed us that the wild boars occasionally came down the mountain on the opposite side of the valley to the water; and that, at times, immense masses of rock could be heard falling from the heights with a noise like that of thunder or of an avalanche. After a short rest we descended to the valley highly delighted with the magnificent scenery we had witnessed, and amply repaid for the walk of about nine miles. About half-way down there was a little stream of water issuing from a rock through a tin pipe. Here we halted for refreshment; and, after a bathe in one of the deep rocky basins of the river, and partaking of a few oranges which we picked up under the trees, we were enabled to reach Papeete with comparative ease, after a walk of about eighteen miles. We were overtaken on the way by a mounted party, consisting of the French Governor; our fellow-passenger, the late Governor of Victoria; their aides-de-camp; and two or three friends, who had been on a similar tour to ours, and whom we had met at the cave. There are two or three other valleys on the island not unlike the one we had seen.

      We spent one Sunday at Tahiti--a delightful day to me, as it doubtless was to many others. Mr. Howe usually sent invitations to the officers and passengers of ships lying in the harbor, to attend the English service at the Bethel Chapel; but not having a sufficient number printed for us, two or three passengers were deputed to invite the rest. I gave a cordial invitation on board at the breakfast-table where I was located, and a tall, rough-looking man retorted that the chapel "was as near to him as he would be [156] to the chapel." Struck with the rude remark, the person who made it became a marked man with me. The sequel will appear hereafter. I was desirous of seeing the native service, and went ashore about 8 o'clock; but, being too early, sat down under a tree. Before long an aged native came by with a book in his hand. Curious to know what it was, I made signs that I wished to look at it. He gave it to me, and it proved to be portions of the Scriptures, printed at different times in the native language, and bound up together. It bore evident marks of constant use, and was no doubt prized by this aged Christian. I returned the book, and as the old man seemed to be on his way to the church, I followed him. The Native Church at Papeete is a large wooden building, with a gallery, capable of holding upwards of 1,000 persons. On this occasion it was not more than a quarter filled. A young native evangelist occupied the pulpit. A hymn was given out, the singing of which was led by a female to a lively tune; and though all did not engage in this part of the service, those who did sang sweetly, and kept good time. Prayer followed, and then a portion of Scripture was read. After another hymn, the sermon commenced. The youthful preacher appeared to have a good flow of language, and from his energetic and impressive manner, he seemed to feel the force of what he said. Many of the Tahitians present had Bibles, and made use of them. Some referred to the passages quoted, while others with a pencil made a mark, or wrote down some striking passage from the mouth of the preacher. The congregation was both devout and attentive, and mostly composed of aged men and women. I was informed that a few years previously this church was well filled every Lord's-day. The causes which led to this sad decline have been alluded to, and their effects must have been a source of regret to all interested in the progress of the Gospel among the heathen.

      I next went to the Bethel Chapel, a wooden building capable of holding upwards of 100 persons. Mr. Latrobe and several other of our passengers were present. The service was conducted by Mr. Howe in an interesting and edifying manner. His prayers were appropriate and comprehensive, and the singing was delightful. He preached from Proverbs iii. 6--"In all thy ways acknowledge Him, and He shall direct thy paths." In the discourse he made special reference to the providence of God in bringing so many of those present thus far on their journey, and exhorted them to acknowledge the preserving hand of the Lord in their future travels, and seek His guidance in all the [157] varying circumstances of life. There was service at the Native Chapel in the afternoon, and I saw the aged native I had met in the morning repairing thither.

      The hotels were open throughout the day, and many of the natives were engaged in selling fruit. The Tahitians, a few years before the time of my visit, were strict observers of the Lord's day; but many, now follow the example of the French, and keep only the first part of the day, and a great many not at all. Some fifty or sixty were constantly engaged in loading our vessel with coal; these did not work in the forenoon, but were set to work as usual after mid-day.

      In the evening there was service at the Schoolroom adjoining the Mission-house. It was conducted by Mr. Howe, in the same interesting manner as in the morning. The congregation was small and select. There was an interesting Tahitian family present, consisting of an aged female, her daughter and son-in-law, and four or five grandchildren. Among the latter were two or three girls neatly dressed in European style. The grandmother, who had a remarkably good memory, was introduced to Mrs. Bligh (daughter of Capt. Bligh, of the Bounty), who was one of the passengers by the Golden Age. The old dame remembered Capt. Bligh's visit to Tahiti, and described his person, and some little incidents which occurred at the time. She also remembered my father's visit to the harbor in 1825, and pointed out the part of the harbor where the vessel lay. He was then engaged in the pearl and coral fishery, as mentioned in an early part of this book.

      On Monday, May 29, the captain of the Golden Age invited a number of passengers to a picnic in one of the valleys. The day was fine, and they doubtless enjoyed the beauty of the scenery and the repast provided for the occasion. In the evening I had my enjoyment, which was of a decidedly selfish character, and one in which no one but myself could participate to the same extent. It was a lovely evening, and I was led into a contemplative mood, the scenery and circumstances being eminently favorable to such a condition of mind. All was calm, with not even a zephyr to stir the leaves of the semi-tropical foliage on the one side, or cause a ripple on the waters of the Bay of Papeete on the other. The moon was shining brightly in the cloudless sky, shedding its rays upon the tranquil scene, and giving sufficient light to show in outline the Island of Mores in the distance. The surf was breaking with a soft murmur on the coral strand, and the songs of the natives loading our steamer [158] could be faintly heard. The signal-gun had been fired, and the drums and bugles had sounded, warning the islanders that they must wend their way homeward. Now and again a belated native softly paddled his canoe to the shore and disappeared among the trees. From my position in front of the Mission-house, looking out upon the bay, I reflected that about the time I came into the world my father's vessel was probably lying at anchor within sight of the spot where I was standing. 1 took a rapid retrospective glance at the way in which the Lord had led me, and then, with a thankful heart, joined in the family worship at the missionary's hospitable home before retiring to rest.

      As the dust and noise incidental to coating were very disagreeable, many of our passengers were desirous of renting houses or rooms during our stay, but few were able to do so. I was Providentially led, on arrival, to make the acquaintance of the missionary (Mr. Howe), who kindly invited me to partake of such accommodation as his house could afford; and we enjoyed Christian communion and fellowship together. Mr. Howe also exchanged several of my sovereigns for American gold, which was a pecuniary gain to me without involving him in any loss. If this exchange had not been effected at Tahiti, I would, in all probability, have lost all the sovereigns that I had in my flannel band; as it was, I carried the American gold in my pocket, some of which represented twenty dollars in one coin. Many callers at Tahiti will doubtless remember with pleasure the kindness and Christian hospitality of this gentleman and his lady.

      The climate of Tahiti is generally considered healthy, but it has an enervating effect upon the European inhabitants. Trade is very irregular, and dependent on the arrival of ships. The people are inactive till then, but endeavor on these occasions to make up for loss of time by extra exertion and extravagant charges. The early part of the morning and the evening are the most delightful portions of the day. Light showers frequently fall in the early dawn, and the rain clears away as the day advances. The heat of the sun is rather oppressive at noon, and the less bodily exertion at this time, the better for the European constitution.

      On Tuesday, May 30, while finishing a letter at the Mission-house, I heard the well-known signal for the passengers to return on board. The whistle sounded twice, and even thrice, before I could finish my letter, collect my papers, and take leave of my kind friend Mrs. Howe. I hastened along the beach, meeting Mr. Howe, who commended me to the Lord, and bade farewell. [159]

      I carried a bag of oranges on my back, which Mrs. Howe had permitted me to gather off the trees at the station; also, a good supply of bananas. These were subsequently spread out on my spare berth, and the oranges remained sound until Panama was reached.

      Arriving at the vessel, I could not get on board until Queen Pomare, who was about to ascend the steps, had gained the deck. She had come to look over our fine vessel before its departure. A salute was fired from the steamer, as Her Majesty, accompanied by members of her family and others, left the shore. As I had not chosen, while on land, to give or take the trouble to see her, I was glad of this opportunity. Seated on one of the sofas in the saloon, she appeared somewhat fatigued, probably on account of her late illness. Her features were plain, and her attire simple--apparently of green merino, or something of the kind. I was told that she sometimes dressed in figured silks and satins. The captain showed her the elegant appointments of the steamer, with which she and her company appeared pleased, and after taking some refreshments the party retired.

      At 11 o'clock, the anchors being stowed, the paddle-wheels were put in motion, and the monster vessel continued her voyage, amid the cheers of hundreds of persons assembled on the beach, and of the natives in their canoes. They doubtless had good cause to cheer, for the pockets of the passengers had been lightened not a little, to the advantage of the residents of Tahiti. After passing the coral reef, the pilot left us, and many a longing eye was doubtless cast towards the pretty sheltered bay, as the boat pulled back to the shore. For my own part, I felt some regret at leaving, though for many reasons I should not like to make that place my home. In passing round the island, it was somewhat singular to observe the many shapes it assumed. Towards evening it grew dim in the distance, and before night was lost to view. There was a large quantity of fruit on board, which quite scented the vessel, and lasted for several days. The bananas did not keep so well as the oranges, and many of them had to be thrown overboard. The day after leaving Tahiti, a sharp look-out was kept for the Chain Islands, or Dangerous Archipelago. Several were sighted in the afternoon. One or two of them looked something like floating mounds of earth, with a few trees on them. A very pleasing description of one of these islands, as also of two or three others visited by the Governor of Tahiti a short time previous to our arrival there, appeared in the French newspaper. A fellow-passenger [160] took the trouble to translate some of these accounts, a specimen of which is here reproduced:--

      "The name of one of these islands is Rairoa. The interior is an immense lake, supplied with water from the ocean through one or two openings in the land. The bottom of this lake is composed of coral, and is pretty deep in all parts. The land which surrounds the lake is very narrow, being only from 300 to 600 feet across. This place is divided into fifteen districts, and is governed by chiefs, some of whom, it is stated, are Tahitians. The number of inhabitants is estimated at about 400. Their food consists of fish and fruit. They have no water on the island, and are thus compelled to use the milk of the cocoanut. They are described by the French paper as being all Protestants, and as having several native ministers of the Gospel among them. They are said to be a very amicable people, and very fond of singing hymns; for this purpose they meet together at their ministers' houses, or under the shade of the cocoanut trees, in the evening. The land being very low, and exposed to the rays of the sun, the natives sleep during the heat of the day, and sit up a considerable part of the night, especially when it is moonlight. Some of the moonlight scenes are described as being quite enchanting. It is supposed that this land has not been above water any great length of time, as the surface soil is not very deep; the vegetation, however, is luxuriant. This would almost seem to be an island in course of formation; if it be such, the immense bed of coral which forms the bottom of the lake will probably hereafter appear above water."

      The two or three days after leaving Tahiti were principally occupied by the passengers in narrating adventures on, and recollections of, the island; in anticipating the time when we should reach Panama, and how we should get across the Isthmus. Thus it is with the mass of mankind; they look behind and before, at the past and future more than at the present. Memory recalls pleasurable scenes that are past, in the vain hope of enjoying them again, regretting opportunities that have been lost never to be regained; while hope looks forward to many a pleasure which turns out a mirage, and fear sees many a danger which is never really existent.

      On Sunday, June 4, while engaged in reading my Bible, one of the passengers asked me if I would preach a sermon; he said he had not heard one for a twelvemonth. This seemed rather a singular request, and one I was not much prepared to comply with; however, I told him that if he knew any of the passengers [161] who were desirous of meeting together for worship, I would be happy to do my best in conducting it. He said he had no doubt that there were some who would gladly attend. I mentioned the subject myself to two or three fellow-passengers, who were pleased with the plan, and promised their assistance. In the morning I attended with a friend the service conducted by the minister in the saloon; but we could hear scarcely anything, on account of the noise made by the machinery. In the afternoon I asked the captain's permission to hold a meeting for worship in the forecastle; this he readily granted. I then put up a notice of the time and place. At 3 o'clock a goodly number assembled under the awning. I had a supply of hymn books, and we commenced by singing a hymn. I then offered up prayer, read a portion of Scripture, and delivered a short address from Titus ii. 11-14, which was attentively listened to. I certainly did not anticipate so large or so orderly a congregation.

      On Thursday, June 8, a male passenger died. He had been suffering from consumption, and had taken his passage in the hope that it would prove beneficial to his declining health. At 2 o'clock in the afternoon the big bell was tolled, the funeral service read, and the body committed to the deep. A large number of passengers were present at the funeral. There is a peculiarity in a burial at sea, which distinguishes it from one on land: in the latter case the locality is generally known, but in the former the relatives may enquire, like Mary of old, "Where have they laid him?" and get no reply. It will never be known till the voice is heard, saying to the sea, "Give up," and to the floods, "Hold not back."

      On the following day we sighted a craft which was supposed to be a whaler. We were now getting pretty much out of the track of vessels, and, although we were drawing near to the Line, the weather was not very warm. The south-east trade winds ahead, and a smooth sea day after day, made this part of the passage rather monotonous.

      On Sunday, June 11, we held our meeting, as on the previous Lord's-day, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. The attendance was larger this time. After singing and prayer, in the former of which many joined, I delivered an address from John v. 39. It was pleasing to find the Sabbath so well observed, outwardly, at least, as it was on board this vessel.

      On Monday, June 12, we crossed the Line. The sea, as is usual in these latitudes, was calm, disturbed only by our huge paddle-wheels, and some porpoises and flying-fish. There was no [162] shaving throughout the day; but in the evening a sorry substitute for Neptune made his appearance, looking more like a chimneysweep than like the celebrated sovereign of the seas. He had a razor in one hand and a paint-brush in the other, and with the latter implement most of his business or pleasure was done. The cabin passengers, instead of drinking Neptune's health, more wisely, though I know not how prudently, toasted the captain and others in champagne.

      On the following Saturday, a little after daylight, we sighted the Island of Cocos. It is uninhabited, but abounding in wild pigs and other animals. We passed too far south to see the Galipagos Group.

      On Sunday, June 18, the coast of Central America came into view. As we drew near, the land appeared high and hilly, and covered with dense forests in almost every direction. This Sunday, unlike our former ones, turned out a busy day. Sails were unbent, the cable got up, and all things prepared to enter port. The passengers, many of them, were busy packing up, and others watching the coast and our progress up the Bay of Panama. Some pieces of timber floated past the vessel, on one of which two large birds stood erect, and at some little distance they looked like two men in a canoe. From the confusion on board we were unable to hold our meeting for worship in the afternoon, but in the evening a few of us met to return thanks for having been brought safely thus far on our journey. The day had been oppressively warm, giving us a foretaste of what might be expected on the Isthmus.

      At 2 o'clock next morning I went on deck, and saw a blue light burning, which I at first took for a lighthouse, but was informed that it was on a steamer exchanging signals with us. We went alongside, and the captain spoke her. She proved to be the Callao steamer with the English mails. After speaking, our vessel passed on, and soon left her far behind. The news of the arrival of this steamer was no doubt very acceptable to those of our passengers who were proceeding direct to England. Those bound for America had hoped it was the California mail, but were doomed to a double disappointment, as this steamer we afterwards found had arrived, and the New York boat had started two or three days previously. Soon after daylight, we passed Taboga, and some other small and pretty islands, like rocks rising up in different forms, covered with vegetation from their summit to the water's edge. Occasionally, beneath the shade of the cocoanut, the palm, and other trees, houses were delightfully situated, [163] overlooking the bay and the city. We came to anchor at about 7 o'clock, two or three miles from the shore, and fired one or two guns. The Panama people were evidently taken by surprise, for it was some time before any boats put off; and when they did, they came at such a slow pace, that the patience of many of our passengers was somewhat exhausted. This delay, however, afforded us an opportunity of taking a good view of the city, and the beautiful islands at a short distance from it. A steam launch plies between the Island of Taboga and the city; this is mainly a pleasure trip. The place had rather a pretty appearance from the anchorage; its Cathedral and other white buildings presented a pleasing contrast to the ever-living green by which it was environed.

      About 8 o'clock the Callao steamer came up the bay, and anchored much nearer the city than we did. Shortly after some boats came alongside. The boatmen had no doubt calculated upon making the most out of the passengers of the Golden Age. They had probably handled a large amount of Californian gold, and wished to have the same experience in regard to Australian. They wanted two dollars for landing each passenger; but some, I heard, were put ashore for one dollar. I went off in one of the first boats. The rowers, who were natives, pulled slowly towards the shore; and some of the passengers became impatient, on account of being exposed to the burning rays of the sun. The captain's gig, coming up behind us, incited our boatmen to increased exertion, and they pulled till the perspiration streamed off them. As we drew near the shore, so intent were we upon landing that we did not observe for some time the surf that was rolling on behind us, and which threatened once or twice to swamp our boat. In the midst of this now apparent danger, one of the passengers observed some large creature in the water, close to the boat, and our situation was not rendered more agreeable when we were informed that it was either a shark or an alligator. Some time was lost in attempts to get the fare reduced, and in exchanging sovereigns: those who had brought these coins found them to be at a discount of fifteen cents. In the confusion, one unfortunate German beside me only received about six shillings change for his sovereign. Those who were provided with American money (the value of which is best understood all over the Isthmus), had an advantage over others, and found a few dimes particularly useful. The fare having been settled--anything but amicably--another pull or two of the oars brought us within a few feet of the shore. Here our boat was seized by a number [164] of native men and boys, who took good care that it did not come close enough to the beach for the passengers to effect a landing without their aid. They grasped the luggage, notwithstanding the remonstrances of the bewildered owners, who had to mount the backs of the men to follow it. Once ashore, the first job was to seek our luggage. This we found in different hands, each man who had managed to get hold of a parcel of it demanding so much for bringing it ashore. A similar claim was made by the one whose back we had availed ourselves of.

      To add to the confusion we were persistently followed by hotel-keepers and runners, each proclaiming the superiority of his own hotel, and some depreciating and abusing the proprietors of others. If ever patience was called for, it was on this occasion. After some time my Scotch friend and I managed to get our luggage together, and followed a person who said he kept a private boarding-house, the most comfortable in the city. Not knowing anything to the contrary, and wishing to be as snug as possible during our short stay, after passing through a gateway leading into the principal street, we soon arrived at our so-called comfortable quarters. We took a survey of them, and found that the sleeping accommodation consisted of a few berths, one above another, under an open shed, in a narrow passage behind the little front shop, which had a few bottles of something on the shelves, and some cakes, etc., on the counter. Nothing looked very clean. Alas! we had been too confiding, and instead of coming to the best, we had come to the very worst hotel in the place. We determined at once to move on in search of something better than the "best," and got the natives to shoulder our luggage again, which they did, with the recommendation of our would-be host to charge us a dollar more for carrying it further.

      A little higher up the street we came to the Louisiana Hotel, where we resolved to take up our quarters. It was certainly an excellent exchange, for this hostelry was, without exception, the best in Panama, both for comfort and respectability. Here a most difficult task, requiring both patience and forbearance, had to be got through. We were surrounded by all those sable gentry who had taken so much interest in our arrival as to assist us to land, and bring up our luggage to the hotel. For these attentions some demanded dollars, and others so many dimes; but to discover the sum total of our indebtedness was too difficult for us. In this emergency we appealed to the landlord for assistance, who, after hearing the service rendered by each, fixed the remuneration, and we managed in about half-an-hour to see the last of these [165] extortionate claimants. We were then left in quiet possession of a room with a balcony in front, overlooking the square open court, and above was another balcony connected with the rooms on the third floor. Here I rested for a time, and then took a stroll through the ancient city of Panama.

      The Spaniards, it is stated, in a work entitled "The Isthmus of Panama, and What I Saw There," commenced to build the present city of Panama at the latter end of the seventeenth century, after the former city bearing that name, about six miles distant, had been destroyed by a crusade of buccaneers, under the command of a notorious leader named Morgan. To provide against a similar attack they strongly fortified their city. The fort and walls now standing, though in rather a decayed state, plainly indicate its former strength. It is said to have been a place of wealth and importance, but for some years had been allowed to go to ruin. The discovery of gold in California, and the consequent emigration to that country, and return therefrom across the Isthmus, imparted a new spirit of enterprise to its inhabitants, which comprised, at the time of our arrival, a large number of Americans and Europeans. The streets were narrow, tolerably well paved, but not over clean. There was a well-paved square, in which stood the Cathedral--a large, massive white stone building--and some offices connected with the Government. There were also two or three very ancient churches in different parts of the city. The houses were mostly of wood, built in the Spanish style. They were in general two or three stories high, with balconies in front and, in lieu of windows, shutters and doors on each side of the open court at the back.

      Soon after arrival at the hotel, on taking a walk down the principal street my ears were greeted with the ringing of a merry, though not very musical, peal of bells issuing from the Cathedral tower. From the frequency of their striking out, and the length of time they continued ringing, I concluded that it must either be some great festival, or else that they were giving us a welcome. Whichever way it was, I, as well as many of our passengers, paid a visit to this large place of ceremonial observances. Along the front of the building were carved wooden images of the Apostles. The front entrance was by a flight of stone steps. Inside the door was a turning to the right and the left, and in front a grand display of flowers, rosaries, and other ornaments, with an image of the Virgin in the centre. At one of the entrances was a notice, requesting persons visiting to behave themselves with decorum. It was certainly a pity that such a notice should have [166] been necessary in this or any other place of worship, however erroneous the service might be considered. The interior consisted of a centre aisle, with a nave on each side, two rows of square massive stone pillars supporting the former. The centre part of the building was enclosed with a railing, outside of which were some benches used for seats. Carved images stood in niches in different parts of the side walls, and a large number round about the altar. In a gallery near the entrance stood a small organ, in tone very little, if at all, superior to the ordinary barrel organ. By the side of it a native was playing a violin, accompanied by two or three vocalists. With this choir the service was chanted, in rather more of a bawling than a melodious manner. The chanting over, a young priest, from an elevated pulpit, read some prayers hurriedly, to which the congregation, consisting of a few nuns and aged females, responded aloud. He then came down and disappeared, leaving the remainder of the service to the choir and the congregation.

      With one or two other passengers I attended the evening service at the Cathedral. The place was dimly lighted, and the congregation about the same as in the morning. There was no chanting, but a number of prayers, which, a passenger who understood the language informed me, were principally addressed to the Virgin Mary.

      The hotel I was staying at was near to a gate of the city, just inside of which stood a large and ancient church. I observed that most persons (natives) entering the gate lifted their hats, more particularly the women and children, who wear this article as well as men. This, I found, was done out of respect to certain images exposed to view in a small building fronting the church.

      A newspaper was published daily at Panama. I visited the printing office, which was owned by some enterprising Americans. The premises were rather extensive, and in one of the rooms files of British and American newspapers were placed on a long desk, and access to them offered by the liberal and obliging proprietors to passengers visiting Panama.

      At this stage of my journey I ought to state what progress I had made with my studies. Since leaving Sydney I had read a great deal of the debate between Elder A. Campbell and Rev. N. L. Rice, and as far as I had gone, it appeared to me that the former had the best of the argument. I saw that Mr. Campbell kept close to the New Testament Scriptures, while Mr. Rice fell back upon the Abrahamic covenant, endeavoring to show that baptism was to take the place of circumcision. I could not see [167] that such was the case, because there was no faith necessary in those who were circumcised, while such was required on behalf of those who were baptised. I could understand that, if Christian parents were commanded to baptise their infants, as the descendants of Abraham were commanded to circumcise their male infants, Mr. Rice's argument was sound and good. So far as I had gone, however, I could not discover that any such command had been given by Christ and His Apostles. From the foregoing it might be inferred that my mind was being led away from the practice of the Church of England and other Churches that teach and practise infant baptism; but it was not fully made up.

      I think most of us were as anxious to leave Panama as we had been to get there. The hotel charges were high; but, taking into consideration the prime cost of what Europeans and Americans consider the necessaries of life, the unhealthiness of the climate, and the discomforts attending a residence in this climate, these hotel-keepers were not, I think, too well paid. The expense of living was from one and a-half to three dollars per day, exclusive of wines or other extras. For the higher rate the fare was plain, and therefore very little could be expected at the lower prices.

      The English steamer was to sail four days after our arrival, and those who were going by her made preparations to cross on the second and third day. I did not at all like the idea of waiting nearly a fortnight for the New York steamer, and decided, after some consideration, to proceed by the English steamer to St. Thomas's, and if there did not appear any chance of getting from there to America, to sail direct to England.

      Having resolved to cross the Isthmus, the next thing to be done was to provide ourselves with mules. This we did, not in the way that had been pointed out to me by my fellow-lodger in Melbourne, but after the example of many who probably had not been cautioned, as I had, to hire mules only of the forwarding agents in Panama. This advice my Scotch friend and I did not follow. We concluded, I suppose, that a mule was a mule, whether hired from a forwarding agent or a muleteer, and that if we hired them ourselves we would get across much cheaper than by the other method. I was well aware of the reputed obstinacy of these animals, but did not think there was so much difference in them as I afterwards experienced. As several of the passengers, who did not want to be troubled with their luggage, had sent it through the express or forwarding agents, my friend and I at first thought of doing the same; but we afterwards [168] changed our minds, and resolved to accompany it ourselves. Accordingly, we hired three mules from a person who appeared to belong to the hotel at which we were stopping; one for our luggage, and one each for ourselves.

      The next morning we were up at 5 o'clock, and made preparations to start. On reaching the street a rather novel sight presented itself. A large party were going across, and in front of the hotel some fifty or sixty mules, with their drivers, were ranged along the pavement. My friend, having found one of ours, assisted to load it with the luggage, and sent it on before. The scene at starting was most amusing. There was the variety of saddles--high and low, large and small--with their grotesque and fanciful trappings. Then there was the buckling-up of the saddles, and strapping-on of small parcels of luggage, 20 lbs. or 30 lbs. of which was allowed to be carried on the mule, in addition to its rider. The hire, if not previously settled for, had to be paid on mounting; and then came the disagreement about the value of sovereigns, and the amount of change, if American money had not been provided. This part of the business over, the animal's head or tail had to be disengaged from that of another to which it was fastened. Some impatient rider, perhaps, fixed in this way behind and before, would shout to be freed from his comical position; then there would be the turning and twisting about of the animal, the spurring of the rider, the shouting and beating of the driver, the rattling of hoofs on the pebbly street, one or two collisions, and off!--but it was very doubtful how far the beast would go.

      My friend selected a large mule, while I mounted a diminutive mouse-colored one. We set off together; but my companion soon found that he had an animal which did not like crossing the Isthmus; and; finding all his efforts to get it to do so were in vain, he determined to return and change his steed for another. As numbers of people were going across, he thought that I had better keep on, as my mule was manageable, and he would soon, as he supposed, overtake me. Accordingly, I rode leisurely along, with plenty of company behind and before. The day was fine, the weather clear and warm. The road at first was level and good. For some distance out of the city it was lined with native houses, built of upright poles, plastered with clay, and roofed with palm-leaves and a kind of thatch. Some of them were divided by mats into two compartments, and none were over cleanly in appearance. The inhabitants were sitting and lounging about as though life were a burden to them. After [169] riding three or four miles, over a road in some places paved with large pebbles, and in other places not at all, I came to a wooden building called the "Five-Mile House." Here, and at two or three other places near, refreshments were to be had. These houses were open in front, exposing to view the liqueurs and edibles on sale within. One, evidently of a superior character, had a table covered with a white cloth, and a few cups and saucers set upon it, signifying that tea and coffee could be supplied--but not, I am sure, at a trifling cost. The large party previously spoken of seemed to enjoy the first part of the journey; but I suppose that after the novelty was over, the reality of the dangers in prospect, and the fatigue attending the trip, did not excite many pleasurable emotions. Two or three of the ladies were being conveyed across in hammocks fastened to a long pole and carried on the shoulders of the natives, or negroes; this was a very expensive mode of conveyance, as it required four or eight men to relieve each other. One gentleman informed me that he paid 120 dollars to have his wife thus carried; and that the expense of taking his family and luggage across would be little short of 300 dollars. Other ladies were riding mules, and natives on similar steeds conveyed the children, holding them in front.

      After I had travelled about six or seven miles, the road began to get bad. It was sometimes through mud, sometimes up and down rocky hills, with holes which had in the first instance probably been made for the feet of the mule to climb up or descend by, but which had, from length of time and frequent use, become much deeper; and sometimes along a narrow pass cut through hills where the soil and stones could be removed. In these places there was generally just room enough for the feet of the mule; the bottom consisted of mud and large loose stones, some of which it was as much as my little animal could do to step over. To avoid some of the worst parts of the road, the mules, without any regard for the scratches their riders might get from the boughs by the roadside, or for the danger of the rider being hanged, as was Absalom of old, kept as close as possible to both the annoyance and danger. There were several native houses and enclosures by the roadside, in which were growing crops of Indian corn, bananas, yams, and other fruit and vegetables. Everything that was growing in the fertile soil appeared to be in a flourishing state. I travelled on in this way till I had gone some fourteen or fifteen miles along the road. I had not hurried, expecting my friend to overtake me every [170] minute; with this expectation I did not keep up with the large party, the last of whom had by this time nearly passed me. At this part of my journey my mule showed signs of disinclination to proceed any further; and, coming to a very bad place in the road, he came to a dead halt. At this juncture a native woman came to my assistance. She beat the stubborn brute, but with no better success than I had had, and I doubt if she felt the same remorse as I afterwards did for using such harsh means to move the animal. Finding it impossible to go forward, and being somewhat exhausted, I alighted, and fastened my mule to a post in front of the native house. A man who resided at this house was lying on the grass, sick of the fever. He looked up at me, and in a low tone asked for a dime, which moderate request I complied with. For the information of English readers, I would mention that a dime is an American silver coin of the value of ten cents, or 5d. English. I then walked into the house, where I found two women and some children, and made a significant sign expressive of my wants. These were understood, and a small twist, such as were generally purchased and kept for sale by these roadsiders, was handed to me, the charge for which was a dime. This native hostess seeing me look about for something else, repeated the word "eggis" two or three times. I concluded this word meant eggs, and nodded assent. I found I was right, for two eggs were soon brought, and the woman, pointing to an outhouse where the cooking operations were carried on, finding that I approved of her suggestion, despatched a little fat fellow, in a state of nudity, to cook the eggs. They were brought in shortly afterwards, and, to my surprise, a spoon was handed to me to eat them with. The charge for these extras I understood to be two dimes. I next helped myself to a drink of water, from a large earthern jar such as was used by these people to keep water in, and it was certainly in this way quite cool and refreshing. Having finished my meal, I began to consider how I was to proceed. I looked in vain along the road for my companion, or any more of my fellow-passengers. Now and then a party of muleteers with loaded mules passed by, but neither they nor any of the people at the house could answer my inquiries as to the distance to Cruces, or how I could get there. A shake of the head followed all my questions, until one or two persons of a lighter complexion, but not at all of the good Samaritan character, came by that way. These people told me I was a long distance from Cruces and from Panama; that I was not on the right road to Cruces or to the [171] railway station; and that I had better get along as fast as I could, as it was not safe to travel alone. Having given me this anything but pleasing information, they rode on, and I again sat down in the house, with the reflection that it was vain to trust in man for help, and that I must, as I had done before, trust in the Lord. I could not go forward, and did not much like the idea of riding about fifteen miles back alone. I surveyed the interior of the dwelling, to see if I could reconcile myself to a night's lodging in such a place, or whether it would be safe to do so.

      The house was of the ordinary kind in those parts, consisting of one large room, not very wind or water tight, and without any floor save the hard earth. In one part of this room a cot or hammock was suspended from the roof, and about half-way over was a loft, which was reached by a slanting post with notches cut in it for steps. This, I concluded, was a sleeping apartment, but neither above nor below did it look very inviting to take a night's lodging in. I did not apprehend much danger from the invalid, nor from the cheerful-looking women and children; but after I had been there some time, one or two men whose countenances were not so prepossessing made their appearance. While I remained at this house, a large number of soldiers, a detachment of the force raised at Panama to put down the rebellion, passed by. They were the irregulars, and they certainly had a grotesque appearance. Their skin varied from the light-brown Spanish to the jet-black negro. They were young and old, tall and short, and for the most part without shoes and stockings.

      After a stay of nearly two hours at the native house, seeing the company I was likely to have by remaining, I determined, if possible, to return to Panama. Mounting my mule, and finding that he would go home, I rode leisurely along the road, meeting several parties of soldiers and natives. I took the precaution now and then, on passing such, to make a polite bow, and avoided looking back, as if suspicious that all was not right. After riding past bushes and through mud, I arrived late in the afternoon at Panama in almost as bad a plight as ever Don Quixote or his attendant, Sancho Panza, are represented to have been in. On entering the gate I was met by my less successful, but in one respect more fortunate, friend, who had tried two or three mules, but could not get out of the city. I was soon surrounded by a number of eager enquirers as to the cause of my return; but was glad to retire, being quite exhausted. My friend expressed his fears that we would lose our luggage, which had gone on before, but I felt confident we would find it at the railway station. We [172] determined to hire fresh mules, and proceed next morning to look after it.

      We hired our mules early next day, at one of the express houses, and soon found how dearly we had paid for experience. The charge for the three mules on the previous day was ten dollars each, and with the exception of ten dollars returned to my friend, was a total loss, leading, as we afterwards found, to the loss of our luggage. We were charged twelve dollars each for the two mules, and were soon mounted and on the road. Mr. Latrobe, the ex-Governor of Victoria, his aide-de-camp, and five gentlemen, were crossing that morning, and they kindly allowed us to join their party. Just after starting, the rain fell heavily, drenching us rather freely, but cooling the atmosphere. A short distance from Panama we fell in with an old man, who had acted in the capacity of "Jemmy Ducks," or feeder of live stock, on board the Golden Age, who had started on the previous evening to walk across, in order to take his passage for England. I met him as I returned, and advised him not to attempt to cross so late in the day. He said he had taken my advice, and stopped all night at a native house near to Panama. He made an attempt to keep up with us, but, finding he could not do so, some of the gentlemen of the party kindly offered to pay the cost of the guide's mule for him, which arrangement was no doubt very satisfactory to both Jemmy and the guide, the latter being far better fitted to walk through such a country than the former, and was well paid for doing so. Jemmy was a droll fellow, and contributed not a little to the amusement and comfort of his patrons.

      After travelling some ten or twelve miles, I found we had turned off somewhere into another road. It was quite different to the Gorgonna Road, which, I afterwards found, I, as well as the large party of English passengers, had travelled the previous day. We crossed a rather wide but shallow river, and at a little distance entered a road or pass cut in the mountains. The road, as we proceeded, was sometimes through and sometimes round the sides of hills, profusely covered with an endless variety of most beautiful trees and shrubs, the hues and tints of which, and the different sizes and shapes of their foliage, almost baffled description. There were first the little creeping vines and the bushes with vari-colored efflorescence, then the spear and other grasses; above these the prickly and other kinds of acacia, and the castor-oil plant bearing its reddish seed-capsules and flowers--all surmounted by the different varieties of the palm, with their large graceful leaves. In fact, we saw nearly every species of [173] tropical vegetation, with here and there a forest of stately trees, many of which were entwined from the root upward to and among the branches with ivy, which, in some places, not being able to climb any higher, fell in graceful festoons to the earth. Occasionally a decayed tree was seen, with the dead ivy still hanging from its branches like ropes. Other ancients of the woods were overgrown with moss, as also were the loose rocks and stones beside the road. Butterflies, gorgeous and iridescent, sported among the leaves, and now and then a pretty tropical bird would be startled at our approach.

      Some parts of this mountain pass, however, are not so bright and beautiful as that I have just described. Frequently we had to pass along through a narrow defile, where the forest was so dense as to give a solitary and dreary aspect to the road. Nought could be heard save the sound of running water, and the steps of the mules gently threading the narrow path or ascending and descending some steep incline. In these parts the lonely traveller would be anything but agreeably surprised to find the existence of human beings such as are to be met with here occasionally. We passed two or three native houses in such localities. I observed in one, which was open in front, four dark-skinned and not very amiable-looking men. They were sitting and lying about, with their "machetes," or long knives, hanging up near them.

      In some places the defile was so narrow as not to allow of two mules passing each other. We came in contact with several droves of these animals returning to Panama. At first they threatened to do the foremost of the party some damage, as they showed a determination to get through regardless of consequences. Our leader at one stage was Mr. Latrobe, and, in this case, but for a sudden turn, His Excellency would certainly have suffered an overthrow. Subsequently our guide took the precaution to give a signal before entering: this consisted of the well-known cry of "Coo-ee" repeated several times.

      We arrived about mid-day at the "Seventeen-Mile House," and there was not one of us but wished this part of the journey finished. One or two of the mules began to look jaded, as well as the riders. At this house of refreshment the party halted, but, beyond beer and spirits, there was not much obtainable. At one house I asked for some biscuits: the man seemed somewhat abashed at offering them at the price. He gave me four small, round, hard biscuits, for which he charged me two dimes. These road-siders generally charge as much as they can get, and there [174] is no doubt that, when they can, they will help themselves. At a little distance from this "Seventeen-Mile House" were two roads--one leading to Cruces, and one to Obispo. As the former was the nearest, I was glad it was taken, as my friend and self would be afforded an opportunity of enquiring after our luggage. The approach to Cruces was extremely pretty; the road winds round the side of a hill, and down an incline, into the town. Cruces has been a place of considerable importance, it being the head of the river navigation of the Chagres. It consisted principally of a long street reaching down to the river. The houses, which were nearly all built in the native style, stood a short distance from each other.

      The natives here, at Panama, and elsewhere on the Isthmus, were very fond of cock-fighting. It is most probable that their liking for this brutal sport arose from the example of the early Spanish residents. At the front, and sometimes at the back, of many of these houses there were game-cocks fastened to the doors. There was plenty of poultry upon the Isthmus, but, beyond these fighting-cocks, the breed did not appear superior. The people had a summary way of killing the fowls, at any time, by just knocking them down with a long stick. One of our party, surprised at seeing so many inhabitants with little apparent means of subsistence, enquired how they managed to get a living. He was informed that they mostly had land at a short distance from the town, which they cultivated, living upon the produce. Their wants are few, and these Nature supplies to a great extent in this prolific country, without much industry or aid on their part. There were a few hotels belonging to the Americans:these were wooden buildings, with their usual showy signs.

      We halted at the house of a native near the river. He was an intelligent young man, and undertook to provide us with refreshments and afterwards convey us in his boat to Obispo, the railway station. After long and great preparations, and sending here and there for different articles to enable his guests to partake of the repast in something like hotel style, our host spread the little table with much better fare than could have been expected in the time and place. There were boiled fowl and boiled salt meat, with sundry little etceteras that were not to be despised. The repast finished, our host prepared his boat to convey us to Obispo. After a few pulls of the oars we were carried swiftly down the stream. The river near to Cruces is wide, but not very deep, and here and there trees and logs of wood appeared above and below the surface of the water. The scenery along the Chagres [175] was varied and beautiful. In some places lofty hills, densely timbered, rose from the river banks, in others, gentle slopes of brightest green pasture terminated in white sandy shores and again impenetrable underwood, covered with ivy, formed natural arbors of every imaginable shape, abutting on the stream. The woods teemed with merry songsters; and many kinds of birds, from the little noisy parrot to the graceful heron, occasionally flew across the water. I was rather curious to see--what was not uncommon--an alligator on the banks; but though the sun was shining, not one made its appearance to gratify me or any of our party. Arriving at a small channel out of the course of the river, our boat was suddenly swept round into it, and after proceeding about half a mile, the line of railway appeared, and we were soon afterwards landed on a muddy bank. The stream we had last entered was the Rio Obispo, from which the village here is named, and there was a bridge over it, close to the railway station.

      Obispo, in addition to its native population, had several so-called hotels, and two or three forwarding houses. The hotels were of a quaint description; and being mostly intended for the accommodation of travellers to and from America and California, they display showy signs with the names peculiar to those countries and people. These places are built of wood, mounted on piles, and are generally two stories high. On our right was a sign inviting us to "Old Joe's Eating-House," and to the left a clean-looking place styled the "American Hotel," with a slender balcony in front. We made our way to the latter, and the landlord, a man of color, finding we were going to take up our quarters with him, made preparations accordingly. His Excellency and party, being desirous of refreshing themselves with a wash, were shown up a ladder leading to the upper story. This part of the building had neither table nor washstand, its furniture consisting of a few chairs and dusty stretchers. Here Jemmy made himself particularly useful and amusing to his patrons. He did all he could to anticipate their wants and wishes, and ordered the waiter here and there with a threat, little heeded, that he would "make the niggers move."

      It was well for him that he was not alone while thus making free with the color of the landlord and his assistant; but he was sagacious enough to know where and when to be silent, as well as when to make himself heard. I was not a little amused at his frequent sympathetic expressions of condolence on the loss of my friend's luggage and my own. The poor "gintilmen" were to be pitied, and the [176] rascals who had stolen it should be flogged. We made enquiry about it here, as well as at Cruces, but with no better success, the only reply to our questions being to the effect that we need not expect to see it again. After supper in the lower apartment, we were again shown aloft, to recline our exhausted limbs upon what might have been termed an apology for a bed. The heat was oppressive and the mosquitoes troublesome, but fatigue, like hunger, is not very fastidious. Soon after sunrise the boards began to creak with the footsteps of one and another of the party, and when all were in motion, it seemed almost too much for the slender rafters beneath. Obispo, unlike Cruces and some of the other towns or villages, was busy from morning to evening, independently of the traffic across the Isthmus. The trains which ran to Aspinwall brought up goods and material to Obispo, whence they were conveyed by other trains to where they might be required along the line of railway. The trains which ran to Calivera, or the "Summit," as it was also called (from its being the extent to which the rails were laid), carried the laborers to their different places of employment, and back again to meals and sleep. To avoid the low swampy country at Obispo, the line was raised from 15 to 20 feet.

      After breakfast it was suggested that either my friend or myself should return to Cruces, and make further search for our luggage. My friend volunteering to go, a canoe was hired, and he set off in company with a man and a boy. They were gone little more than three hours, and returned unsuccessful. The man charged a dollar for the canoe, and my friend gave another dollar to our late host at Cruces to aid him in the search. The charges at the hotels of Cruces and Obispo and by the roadside were according to circumstances. If a price were not stipulated for, the traveller might expect the charges to be enormous. From half a dollar to a dollar per meal, and from two to four dollars per day, was about the usual price. The train was to leave for Aspinwall at two o'clock in the afternoon, and as there appeared to be little chance of finding our luggage, we took our departure in it. I noticed that my friend was extremely anxious to get across the Isthmus, and he did not inform me as to the cause of this anxiety until our arrival at Aspinwall. He then told me that he was carrying no fewer than 800 sovereigns about his person in two leather bags, one of which he gave me after he had deposited the gold in the bank, and I have preserved it as a memento of our trip across the Isthmus. The railway winds round the foot of the hills in a very circuitous manner, cuttings [177] and viaducts having been avoided as much as possible on account of the labor. It has been stated that so great was the mortality during the construction of the line that the bodies of those who died would have reached from one end to the other. The scenery along the line was very interesting for some distance, including two or three views of the River Chagres, and some pretty hills and slopes; but as we drew near to Aspinwall, the road became level, and ran through a forest of underwood. There were several iron tanks along the road, and piles of wood for the supply of the engines. It was a single line of rail, and the road had already had to be repaired in many parts, owing principally to the fall of rain at times washing the loose soil at certain places from the embankment, and at others depositing more than was required. There are two or three bridges over the Chagres and smaller streams, and one to connect the Island of Manzanilla with the mainland.

      We arrived at Aspinwall at a quarter past 5 o'clock. Almost the first object of attraction was the English mail steamer preparing for departure. The steam was issuing from the escape valve, giving notice of its better use shortly; the boats were hurrying to and fro, and many of the Americans cast a longing look after each party of their more fortunate English fellow-passengers. My friend inquired of the English Consul, who was the agent for the steamers, as to the passage money and accommodation; but finding that she was crowded, and able to take only a certain class of passengers, we determined to wait the arrival of the New York steamer. The English steamer started about dusk, with His Excellency and a large number of passengers by the Golden Age.

      The next thing to be done by those who intended to remain was to find food and shelter. This was no difficult matter for those who had means, as there were a large number of hotels and restaurants; but such as had lost their luggage, or were robbed of their money and gold, found themselves in anything but an enviable situation. My friend and I took up our quarters for the night at the "City Hotel," the largest and best in the place. The charges, we considered, were too high for us to remain; but as it was too late to look out for a comfortable and more moderate place of abode, we left that for the morrow, and enjoyed a good night's rest, notwithstanding the heat, being protected from numerous nocturnal marauders by mosquito curtains.

      The next morning after breakfast, for which meal and our bed we paid two dollars, we took a stroll round the city, to look [178] out for a habitation for the few but wearisome days we had to spend in this unhealthy and oppressively warm place. This city, named after one of the Directors of the Panama Railroad Company, is situated upon the western side of Manzanilla Island, on the shores of Navy Bay. The bay, which is formed by the island and the mainland, is about 22 miles wide and 42 miles long. It affords good anchorage for vessels in nearly all parts. The site of the city and a large tract of country was purchased by the Panama Railway Company, from the Government of New Granada. The Company had erected a fine covered pier, at which its largest steamers could lie alongside, and rails thereon, connecting with the main line, facilitated the loading and discharging operations. The city was laid out on an extensive scale, the buildings at that time mostly fronting the bay. The hotels, forwarding houses, and shops were of wood, and some of them two and three stories high. The railway ran in front of these, and its terminus was near the entrance to the bay.

      As dinner-time drew nigh, my friend and I went to a hotel where we thought to remain during our stay; but on taking a survey of the "fixings," as the landlord called them, in the sleeping apartment assigned us, we thought the want of mosquito curtains and other conveniences would not only deprive us of comfort, but of health; besides this the landlord, a not very prepossessing person in appearance, who was just recovering from an attack of fever, entertained us with such dismal narratives of disease and death, and dreadful atrocities of our species in the Southern States of America and elsewhere, which he had either witnessed or read of, that we did not feel over-charmed with his company, though his manner was civil and obliging. His only lodger, too, was a victim of the fever, and subsequently died while on his passage to New York in the same vessel as myself. Taking all circumstances into consideration, we determined to return to our first quarters. Our former host, conscious of the superiority of his accommodation, welcomed us back with a smile of self-approval. The charge at this hotel was four dollars per day, but a considerable reduction being made for taking lodgings by the week, as we had to stay that length of time, we decided to remain at the house. Both the landlord and his wife were suffering from fever, and the assurance given in Australia that the Isthmus was free from sickness seemed anything but a reliable or truthful one. The hotel was fitted up and conducted in the American style. One side of the bar was for the sale of liquors, and the opposite side had a long desk, on which lay files of [179] newspapers, while a bagatelle board occupied the centre of the room. Across the hall was the breakfast and dining room, capable of seating upwards of 200 at a time. The house had sleeping accommodation for a like number, and was surrounded with a deep verandah and balcony, which was used during the day for lounging and smoking, and closed up at night with venetian shutters for sleeping apartments when necessary. Here I first noticed the habit the Americans have of leaning back in their seats, and placing their feet on a level with the body. I afterwards found this practice so universal in the States, that many of the hotels placed a footrail about three feet high for the use of those who have contracted this singular habit. The only delightful promenade at Aspinwall was on the covered steamboat pier, and thither each day we bent our steps, casting many an anxious look towards the entrance of the bay, to get the first view of a steamer which we expected to take us hence.

      The Sunday after our arrival we made enquiry as to the time and place of holding Divine service. We were informed that it was held in one of the warehouses of the Pacific West India Mail Company; but on proceeding thither at the appointed time, we found that there would be no service, because one of the Company's steamers was unloading her cargo there. There was a minister of religion at this place, as also at Panama, but our fellow-passengers on that side of the Isthmus were more fortunate than we were. I was told by one who attended the Protestant place at Panama that he had heard an excellent discourse from the minister there, who, except on the arrival of a number of travellers, experienced much difficulty in getting anything like a congregation together.

      The daily incoming of the train, bringing straggling parties of our fellow-voyagers, was a pleasing relief to the monotony. The time and manner of crossing, the expenses on the road, the losses sustained by some, and the impositions practised upon others, were all fruitful matters of conversation, and furnished topics of interest to beguile the time. The unloading of the luggage-cars, too, was watched by me in the vain hope of recognising some of the missing luggage sent on. Each package that was not claimed by the passengers bore the ticket of the agents by whom it was forwarded, and was conveyed at once to their warehouse on this side of the Isthmus. The arrangements of these houses were admirable, and although the transit of goods by this means was the most expensive, it was decidedly the safest and most expeditious; and only once or twice had loss occurred. [180]

      One of the passengers came across minus all his gold, worth about £600. It was stolen out of his travelling-bag at one of the hotels in Panama, and he was unable to recover a grain of it. There was a semblance of government and law at that place, but if property was lost or stolen it could seldom be traced. At Aspinwall they had no form of government at the time of our visit, with the exception of a vigilance committee, the main object of which was to protect its members and their property. In the case of the unfortunate man before-mentioned, the English and American Consuls at Panama procured him a passage to New York, and a subscription was raised to defray his expenses across the Isthmus. There were two or three other robberies reported among our passengers, but no loss of life, so far as was known. As the railway over the Isthmus has now been completed many years, such an experience as ours will not be repeated. An armed attack was made on the railway station not long after the line was opened, which affords another illustration of affairs there.

      After we had been at Aspinwall for a week, we were gladdened with the news of a steamer being in sight. It proved to be the George Law, from New York, bringing about 200 passengers. These were soon located in the several hotels, which would probably accommodate in the aggregate 2,000 persons. The next day the steamer El Dorado arrived from New Orleans, bringing a small complement of passengers. Those who arrived by the George Law took their departure for Panama in the 9 o'clock train, try join the California steamers there. We were now anxious to hear of the arrival of those steamers, as the Atlantic steamers took their departure as soon as the passengers and specie were conveyed across. Most of us had stayed long enough on the Isthmus to be convinced of its unhealthiness, and were all more or less suffering from debility and fever. We happened to be there in the rainy season, which is the most unhealthful. The rains usually begin to fall in May and cease in December. The intense rays of the sun after a shower of rain are almost insufferable, imparting, as they do, an indescribable humid moisture to the atmosphere. The Isthmus being about eight degrees of north latitude is subject twice in the year to the vertical rays of the sun.

      By the return train in the afternoon the first of the California passengers arrived, so well did the steamers on each side of the Isthmus keep to their time. The office for the sale of tickets, we found, would not be open till the next day, a few hours previous to the starting of the steamers; but it was [181] reported that the passage-money would be high, because there would be no opposition this trip. The rival company had only a sufficient number of vessels to run them alternate trips. When the steamers belonging to both lines were in port at the same time (as was the case a day or two previous to our arrival), the passage-money was sometimes as low as 30, 20, and 12 dollars, according to the accommodation. It was reported that on this trip the prices would be 100, 80, and 60 dollars, which it probably would have been but for the representation of our captain as to the time we had been on the Isthmus, and the expenses we had been put to in consequence. Under these circumstances we found, on taking our passage next day, that the Australian passengers were to be charged 80, 60, and 40 dollars to New York, and 90, 70, and 50 dollars to New Orleans.

      I must now make reference to ways and means. My luggage was all gone, and with it between twenty and thirty sovereigns in the flannel band previously mentioned. I had found the heat so oppressive on the Isthmus that I took off said band and placed it with watch and other valuables, together with letters and papers, in my portable writing-desk. In my pocket I had the American gold, exchanged for sovereigns at Tahiti, and a draft on New York for 150 dollars. In a pocket-handkerchief there were my diary and half-a-dozen small New Testaments. The only clothing I had was a thin outfit suitable for the very warm weather, and more clothes were absolutely necessary for the voyage to New York. I found I could get the draft on New York exchanged at Panama at a considerable discount; and this was necessary for passage money and outfit in addition to the American gold I had left. I now saw how providential that exchange of gold at Tahiti had proved, as without that I would have had to land at New York with only a few dollars in my possession. I had sufficient to take me from the Isthmus to England, but then I should have had to give up my intended visit to America; and, strange as it may appear, I had sufficient funds in hand to pay my intended visit, and with the exception of a sovereign that I had borrowed from my Scotch fellow-traveller (afterwards repaid), enough to pay my passage from New York to Southampton. As may be supposed, I had to study the strictest economy, but I was able to accomplish what I intended, and this afforded me much satisfaction.

      On Saturday, July 1, we prepared to depart, and I, for one, was thankful to be able to do so. In the morning I visited one of our passengers, who was suffering from an attack of dysentery, [182] which, having been neglected for some days, proved incurable. I found him insensible, and in a dying state--his limbs cold and contracted with pain. He died shortly after I saw him, and his interment and the settlement of his affairs were left to be arranged by the American Consul.

      By the afternoon train this day the remainder of the Californian passengers arrived, and a novel scene ensued. Taking their tickets, they went down to the pier, where the steamers were lying, to await the signal to go on board. They were dressed after the fashion of gold-diggers, which includes almost all fashions; and wore beards of every kind, which these persons considered it their privilege to wear. Most were armed with revolvers and muskets, the discharging of which lasted some time after we were under weigh. The El Dorado first fired her gun, took her few passengers, and started for New Orleans. The party left upon the pier began to show signs of impatience, but no one was allowed to go on board till the gun was fired, when a rush was made to each gangway, and in about half an-hour's time upwards of 200 people were embarked, with their luggage, and the vessel was ready to start. The pier was clear, and the streets appeared forsaken, as we, with no small feeling of delight, steamed out of the harbor. The city had a fine appearance from the water, the wooden buildings extending along the shore of the bay for a considerable distance giving it the appearance of a place of business and importance. The steamer George Law, of 2,500 tons, was named after the largest shareholder in the Panama Railway, and in the line of steamers connected with it. The first night on board was, as might be expected, one of confusion; and the next day (Sunday) was little better. The Californian passengers reported that some of their shipmates were missing. One, they asserted, had been shot and robbed while crossing, and a few were unable to catch the boat.

      Monday, July 4, being the day for the celebration of American Independence, I was curious to know, as we were in an American steamer, and almost in American waters--going through the Gulf of Mexico--whether the love of this people for its nation would be manifested on the sea. I had seen Her Britannic Majesty's birthday pass by unobserved, and from the ordinary routine of the first part of the day, at which the sailors grumbled not a little, I rather expected this would be the same; but about noon the loading and pointing of the guns gave evidence of something in the shape of loyalty. At twelve a salute was fired, and the stars-and-stripes hoisted on the peak. [183] In the evening some fireworks were let off, but there was little drinking and disorder. I noticed that the only beverage given from the ship was iced water. My attention was drawn from the diversions on deck to a scene of a very different kind below. A small group was sitting beside a lower berth, watching, by the light of a lantern held by a sailor at the further end, the features of one whose feeble life was fast departing. He was a foreigner, who had been suffering from an attack of fever at Panama. I saw him on the pier, among the other foreigners, but knew not that he was in the ship. It appeared that he had come on board almost unobserved, found his way to an empty berth, and lay down in it, without strength, perhaps, to rise again. His body was shortly afterwards committed to the deep, the purser taking charge of his money and effects.

      On Wednesday, July 5, we sighted the Island of Cuba, and saw the lighthouse on Cape Anthony. The land on the side by which we passed was low, but appeared more elevated on the Atlantic side. A party in the United States has evinced a strong desire to annex Cuba, and in a popular almanac I saw that by anticipation it was actually included. Spain, however, claims it as one of her dependencies, and has shown in the rebellion of 1896-7 that she will not give it up without a tremendous expenditure of money and men. The rebels have the sympathy of many in the Southern States, and large quantities of arms and ammunition have been supplied to the rebels by blockade runners, without the sanction of the United States. I incline to the opinion that Spain will ultimately have to give up Cuba, and that others of the ten kingdoms of the Roman Empire will be deprived of their colonies, as referred to elsewhere. In 1854 the total value of the annual productions of Cuba was stated to be upwards of 50,000,000 dollars, or £10,000,000 sterling. The principal articles of export were sugar, coffee, and tobacco.

      After passing the island, we got into the Gulf Stream, and the next day sighted the coast of Florida and several vessels passing to and fro from the southern harbors of America. The weather had been fine and the sea calm since leaving Aspinwall, but at this part of our passage we were threatened with a storm. The lightning, which had appeared in faint flashes the two or three days previously, became more vivid and the sky more dark; but, contrary to our expectations, we had a fine view of the lightning without the storm. While in the Gulf Stream, which is caused by the waters of the Mississippi flowing into the Gulf and thence to the ocean, I observed in two or three places the [184] different currents of water in the ocean, giving the sea for some distance a calm surface, while the other parts were agitated by rippling waves or small whirlpools.

      On Saturday, July 8, no land was visible, but we expected to reach New York on the morrow. In the early part of the morning I noticed the person whom I had seen in one of the hotels at Aspinwall, suffering from fever, lying on the deck in a weak and helpless condition. A sailor, who appeared to have a kind heart, was attending to his little wants; but the sailor having to leave him for a time, I took his place. The poor fellow had been gradually sinking, but had kept up his spirits in the hope of reaching New York. He now appeared to have no hope of recovery, and was ill-prepared to meet death. Like many who have been but partially taught, and have only imperfectly understood the plan of salvation, he saw not that he was a sinner standing in need of a Saviour. There can be no sight more sad and solemn to the Christian than to witness the approach of death to those who are unprepared to meet it. Deathbed repentances are not often to be depended on; not because Christ cannot then save, but because faith has to contend with reproaches, doubts, and fears, without being able to render obedience to the Gospel and love to Christ. Towards the middle of the day the sick one grew worse, recovering a little towards evening. Leaving him for a short time, I found him, on my return, attended by a lady from the cabin. She soon resigned her charge to me, and others who now came forward through her example. The lady (whom I afterwards found was Miss Helen Heron, a celebrated actress on her way from California to New York State) did more for this poor sufferer in her absence than when present with him. She enlisted the sympathy of the captain and others in his behalf. The skipper ordered his removal to the hurricane deck, that be might have more air, and had a sail put up over him to ward off the damp. Four of us arranged to sit up with him all night, and were supplied with iced water to cool his head and to quench his thirst. He rallied sufficiently to entertain hopes of seeing his wife and little ones next day at New York; but on the Sunday morning the damp from a thick fog appeared to act unfavorably upon his system. Throughout the day he was irritable, and, like many who are brought near to the end and partly recover, his thoughts were again of this life and the cares thereof. In the evening an adverse change was perceptible, and he complained of cold. I put extra covering upon him, but in a few minutes he moved his lips a little, and was shortly afterwards in the cold hands [185] of death. When I announced to a group standing on the main deck that the man was dead, a negro with a New Testament in his hand said, "Hope him gone to a better world." The man who had behaved so rudely at Tahiti, when the invitation to the service at the Bethel Chapel was received from the missionary, was one of the group, and sneeringly retorted, "There's no better world than this; and there's no God, no devil, and no heaven, and no hell!" He became to me a still more marked man than before, and it will shortly be seen that I had reason to remember him and his scoffs and sneers. Before our late shipmate expired, he had given me the address of his wife at Brooklyn, and in fulfilment of a promise to communicate with her, I found the place, but could discover no trace of the poor fellow's wife and family. They must have left long before to shift for themselves.

      Soon after dusk the fog cleared away, and we saw the lighthouses on Staten Island and Sandy Hook, as well as the lights of steamers and vessels in different directions. When abreast of Staten Island, blue lights were displayed as signals for a pilot, who came on board some two hours afterwards. After burying upon this island the poor fellow whose death had occurred on the previous evening, we steamed away up the Sound, and, as dawn appeared, had a view of the harbor of New York, with its forest of masts and funnels. At this early hour many vessels were in motion; steam-tugs were hauling laden barges, and the steam ferry-boats were conveying living masses to the spheres of their labors. A few stragglers found their way to the pier where our vessel was being made fast, anxious to render assistance which in their opinion we required as much as they needed the pecuniary remuneration that would become their due. The news soon reached the city that our vessel had arrived, and numbers of porters and carriages were soon in attendance to convey us and our baggage thither.

      The voyage from Aspinwall, Navy Bay (a distance of 2,150 miles), was accomplished in 8½ days; and reckoning one day for crossing the Isthmus, and 32½ days from Sydney to Panama, the total number of days under steam from Sydney to New York was only 41. If the Golden Age had not experienced head winds nearly the whole voyage, and had there been no delay in coaling and a steamer ready at the Isthmus, there is little doubt but that passengers would have been landed at New York in 40 days; and, with favorable winds, in a few days under that time. By means of the Pacific Railway from San Francisco to New York, mails from Australia have been delivered in England in less than 30 days. [186]

[CLACE 139-186]