AS soon as the steamer was fastened to the pier a number of porters rushed on board, handing their cards to the passengers, and recommending the hotels which they represented. The names of these hotels were affixed to their hats and carriages, and each was described as the cheapest and best in the city. I imagined these zealous persons received a certain sum for each traveller taken to an hotel; but the difficulty with newcomers was which pressing invitation to accept.

      My companion and I took up our quarters at an hotel pleasantly situated in front of the City Hall. The hotels of America were mostly on a large scale, were admirably conducted, and well adapted to the wants of a travelling community. At the entrance was usually a large hall, on each side of which stood sofas and chairs; and at the further end an office, where a book was kept for persons to enter their names on arrival. Clerks were in attendance to assign the room and take charge of any luggage, for which a check was given corresponding with the one affixed to it, or it could be at once conveyed to the traveller's apartment. The key of the room, when not in use, was left at the office, where it could be enquired for at any time by its number. In most of the hotels, each room was provided with a Bible by the American Bible Society. A bell-pull was also fixed in each room, communicating with an ingenious bell-telegraph fitted up in the office; and this, in its turn, communicated with the servants' department. A door out of the hall led to the [187] reading-room, furnished with sofas, chairs, and files of newspapers. Another door led to the breakfast and dining-rooms, or restaurant. There was generally a private entrance for ladies, and a saloon for their exclusive use. Most of the hotels provided meals, and charged so much per day or week for board and lodging; but some few charged only for the room, and had a public restaurant attached. These last were a great convenience to those whose business or pleasure led them a distance from their hotel. The charges at the former were from one to five dollars per day, and at the latter from half-a-dollar to one dollar. The hotels were the palaces of the Americans, and some of them were certainly equal in extent and grandeur to many residences of the nobility. The St. Nicholas Hotel, situated on Broadway, was built of marble, with an elaborately-carved front four or five stories high; and at a little distance from it stood the Metropolitan Hotel, a noble structure, with about 100 windows looking out upon the busy thoroughfare of Broadway. Some of the hotels in the city had as many as 200 and 300 rooms, and at the watering-places as many as 500. The lower part, as well as of many public buildings, was fitted up for shops. Since I was in America, several hotels have been erected containing a number of rooms far in excess of what I have stated.

      My first impressions of New York were favorable in many respects. There was an absence of gin-palaces and public-houses, and although intoxicating drinks were retailed at most of the hotels and many of the shops, I saw scarcely any drunkenness in the cities of America, and was informed that such is seldom to be seen, except in the more immediate neighborhood of the shipping. The whole stock of liquors kept at one of the large hotels would be consumed, I should imagine, at an English public-house in one day. It is true that there were in New York a number of Dutch restaurants and drinking-houses; but being underground, they were scarcely known or seen by the casual passer-by.

      The streets in the neighborhood of the wharves were narrow and irregular; the extent of warehouse accommodation was immense, forming many entire streets, seven, eight, and even ten stories high. Broadway was the principal place of business and pleasure; in fact it is to New York what Oxford and Regent Streets are to London. It lacked, however, the similarity in the style of buildings of the latter, and, although called Broadway, it was not so broad as Regent Street. Here and there a shop or hotel [188] with an extensive and beautiful marble front was situated beside buildings of a very different style of architecture and appearance. The display of goods was rich and varied, but the shops did not appear so heavily stocked as those in the streets of London.

      The other leading thoroughfares in New York were called avenues, which, commencing at certain points, extended in a straight line through the city north and south for several miles, the cross streets branching off right and left. These streets were numbered from 1 to 227, and were labelled at the corner, in addition to the number, east or west, according to the side on which they lay.

      There were several squares in New York planted with trees and shrubs, and the streets in the more retired parts of the city had trees growing on each side of the road, which gave the streets a pretty appearance, and afforded a shady promenade during the summer season. The buildings of New York were mostly of brick and stone, the public buildings being almost entirely built of the latter. Of these, the finest was the City Hall. It was 216 feet long, 105 feet broad, and 65 feet high, and combined the Ionic, Corinthian, and Composite orders of architecture, the front and ends being built of white marble and the rear of freestone. The centre of the roof was surmounted by a cupola, overlooking the city. A sentinel was stationed here to give the alarm in case of fire. At the back of the cupola was a tower, in which hung an immense bell, weighing 9,910 lbs., which was rung or tolled when a fire broke out. As soon as the bell was heard, the fire engines were set in motion, and the direction in which they were to proceed at once made known. Fires are of frequent occurrence in New York as well as in other American cities. I have heard this bell tolled two and even three times a day. The fire brigade of New York is an efficient force, and with the aid of the telephone, which has largely superseded the warning of the big bell, the fire fiend cannot do so much damage as it formerly did.

      Great attention is paid in America to education; and if either parents or children neglect it, they have in nearly all cases only themselves to blame. The schools were built and the teachers paid from the public funds, and no charge was directly made for the instruction of pupils. I do not think that the system was "compulsory," as that would be considered an infringement of the liberty of the subject. Nor can it be designated strictly as "secular," as Bible reading could be given without denominational teaching. [189]

      The Sunday-schools of America are attended by all classes of persons, and the number receiving religious instruction in them is large in the Sunday-school season. I visited some of the American Sunday-schools, and was generally informed that it was an unfavorable season of the year for so doing. I was not previously aware that these institutions had their seasons, but I now found that not only the teachers, but many of the scholars, were able to visit the fashionable watering-places during the summer, for the benefit of their health; and, in consequence of this, some of the Sunday-schools were actually closed for a few weeks or months. These schools are generally held but once a day; the course of instruction is very similar to that pursued in England, but the discipline of the schools and the behavior of the scholars were not such as I expected they would be, and ought to be. Too little attention, I apprehend, is paid to discipline in Sunday-schools in general.

      The youth of America are generally forward, both in manners and learning. The young appear at a very early age to throw off the restraints of home and parental influence, and to think and act for themselves. This is certainly assuming liberty of thought and action too soon in life, and is carrying out the principles of freedom to a ridiculous and injurious extent. This evil cannot be traced to the education acquired at school, but to the lack of parental training at home. I have frequently heard parents in Australia, as well as in America, express surprise that their children were beyond control in tender years; and this shows the importance of enforcing obedience almost from infancy. It is a difficult lesson for the little ones to learn, and a hard task for parents; but both will benefit from it in the long run. Many in maturer life have been thankful for having been kept in subjection when they were young; and this lesson is likely to be handed on from generation to generation.

      The Churches represented in the States are numerous, and the religious requirements of both city and country appear to be well supplied. All denominations have equal rights and privileges, and there is no State support to any. Their churches are built and their ministers supported by voluntary contributions; but some, as may be supposed, have far more adherents than others. The places of worship of the various denominations were generally handsome and commodious, and towers, spires, and Gothic edifices no more belonged to any one sect than did organs and choirs. [190]

      I visited some of these churches during my stay in New York and other places. The Episcopal churches were handsome structures, the style of building and manner of conducting the service being very similar to those of the Church of England. On one or two occasions I erroneously termed the Episcopalian body the "Church of England," and was corrected for so doing. Trinity Church, in New York, was one of the largest and finest buildings belonging to this denomination, and was very handsomely fitted up with dark carved wood. The roof of the central aisle was supported on massive pillars, and light was admitted through richly-stained windows on each side and at the end. It had only one gallery, at the entrance, in which stood a large organ and seats for the choir. Services were held every day in the week, and two vergers were constantly in attendance to look after the building and conduct such visitors as might desire to have an extensive view of New York from the lofty spire.

      Being anxious to observe the order of the Churches of the Reformation, I first attended their place of worship in New York. The building was neat, and after the style of many of the American churches, having open seats, and, instead of a pulpit, a platform with a desk in front and chairs in a recess at the back, on which were seated two venerable-looking elders. The service had commenced, and consisted of singing, prayer, Scripture-reading, and an exhortation, which last, delivered by Dr. Sheppard, was both argumentative and instructive. The singing was good, and all seemed to join in it; the prayers were fervent, fluent, and comprehensive. I was very well pleased with this first visit, and purposed to observe further the principles and practices of these Churches during my stay.

      In the afternoon I attended a Presbyterian church. The building was a fine Gothic structure, with a high spire; and the interior was fitted up with oak, which corresponded well with the dark-colored stone walls and arched roof. The light was admitted through richly-stained glass windows, and gave the whole of the interior an impressive appearance. There was a fine-toned organ, and the singing was left almost entirely to a well-trained and efficient choir. The discourse had reference principally to the then prevailing cholera, and the necessity of preparation for death. I was not so well satisfied as with the morning service. There was more in this last place to gratify the senses, and less to edify the mind. The same afternoon I also went to the church of the Puritans, a handsome edifice situated in one of the squares. I expected to hear Dr. Cheever, but found that he, like many [191] other preachers, and numbers of persons from the several congregations, had gone to the country for the benefit of health so that the summer season is a very unfavorable one to visit the churches of America. These absentees, I found, were mentioned in the prayers of the several Churches to which they belonged.

      In the evening I walked down Broadway, which was crowded with the votaries of pride and fashion. The omnibuses and railway cars were in full operation throughout the day, and with the exception of the shops being closed there was little difference in the thoroughfares on the Lord's-day from any other day. The laws were very strict regarding the sale of intoxicating drinks on the Lord's-day, and heavy penalties were enforced for infringement, so that those who might have been desirous of these indulgencies could not gratify their wishes, and had to be content with open-air enjoyments. This prohibition no doubt had the effect of increasing traffic in the streets, which, of two evils, was certainly better than traffic in strong drink. Vast numbers of the people I saw were no doubt going to the various places of worship, whose different services were held at nearly all hours of the day. Proceeding up a narrow passage out of Broadway, I was soon seated in the Tabernacle. The building is somewhat after the style of the Congregational Church in Collins Street, Melbourne. The auditorium is nearly circular in shape, the pews rising from the centre to the walls beneath the galleries; it would accommodate, I should imagine, about 2,000 persons. Opposite the entrance was a platform, in the front of which was a desk, and at the back two handsome sofas, and an armchair in the centre. A smaller platform above this was for the leader of the choir, facing the organ, on each side of which were stalls for the choir, the Sunday-school children being seated beyond these. A handsome gas chandelier depended from the ceiling, contributing much to the imposing appearance of the well-lighted building. The service commenced with a vocal prelude by the choir. After this prayers were offered and a hymn was sung, the congregation remaining seated all the time, nor did they rise till the concluding hymn and prayer. The discourse was interspersed with anecdotes, which, with poetical quotations, the American preachers, and, I presume, the people also, were partial to; for they were frequently made use of in the pulpit.

      During the summer season the churches and nearly all public places were furnished with palm-leaf fans, these being used alike by males as well as females; and a whole congregation with fans [192] in motion is rather a novel sight to a stranger. Leaving this practice out of the question, I was not very favorably impressed with the devotional character of some of the congregations I attended. In most of the churches the seats are free, a collection being made at the conclusion of each service; and as the ministers are generally well supported by their congregations, this is certainly a better plan than that of letting pews.

      There was street-preaching in the course of the day in front of the City Hall, but I was informed by a friend that it was little more than a declamation against the Roman Catholics. This mode of preaching had been very popular just before I arrived in New York, but having almost invariably resulted in a riot, the authorities did their best to suppress it, and the quietly disposed citizens discountenanced it. At these meetings each party generally indulged in the most bitter invectives against the other, and the hisses, yells, and shouts were generally succeeded by scuffles and blows. These meetings were frequently attended by several thousand persons.

      The religious societies of America are numerous, and their operations extensive. The principal ones in New York are the American and the American Union Bible Societies, the former for the circulation of King James' translation, and the latter for the translation under the direction of a Board appointed by the various Protestant denominations. I consider that the New Testament sent forth by the American Bible Union is superior to that which is now known as the Revised Version, brought out by the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. I give the preference to the former, not only because the Greek word baptizo is faithfully translated, but for other reasons.

      The American Tract Society had its principal depot in New York. I visited the premises, which were extensive, and saw a number of steam presses executing sheets of letter-press, stereotype, and engravings in a superior manner. I was kindly furnished with a report of this Society, and other interesting papers. One of its monthly publications for children had a circulation of about 300,000. Besides these general societies, there were several with similar objects, but with operations of a local character.

      I also visited the New York Young Men's Christian Association, and was invited to attend its monthly business meeting, and felt pleased with the manner in which it was conducted. The premises occupied by this Association consisted of three lofty and spacious rooms, with sliding partitions, so that for public meetings the whole could be thrown into one. There [193] was an excellent library of about 2,000 volumes in one of the well-furnished rooms. The Association then numbered upwards of 1,600 members. I did not find any gymnasium here, nor any of those more modern adjuncts for the development of "muscular Christianity." Nor did I find these in any other associations on my tour, but I understand that they have since been generally introduced, and are largely patronised.

      While in New York I inspected the Crystal Palace, and was disappointed in the building and its contents. It was probably undertaken too soon after the one in London in 1851; at any rate it proved a failure. The late Prince Albert, one of the principal promoters of the London Exhibition, had an idea that industrial displays of this kind, being of an international character, would tend to foster peace among the nations. From this point of view it is a remarkable co-incidence that the countries which seemed to vie with each other in the opening of these Exhibitions were, not long after, engaged in war. This is, of course, only a co-incidence; still, the war came all the same. Within two or three years of the London Exhibition, the terrible war in the Crimea broke out; a few years after the New York Exhibition, there was the conflict between the Northern and Southern States; and a few years after the Paris Exhibition, the war between France and Germany. It may safely be affirmed that there will be no lasting concord till the coming of the Prince of Peace.

      My stay in New York was lengthened by the sickness of some of my fellow-passengers, scarcely any of whom had been free from fever since leaving the Isthmus of Panama. Being tolerably well myself, I visited and did what I could for those who were sick. One day a shipmate told me that my "marked man" was in a very bad state, in a high fever, terror-stricken by a guilty conscience and the fear of death, and asked if I would see him, giving me the number of his room. I went and found him; but what a change had come over this once stalwart man! Laid low on his bed, helpless and hopeless, his head packed in ice to cool his fevered brain, and with a wild and despairing look in his eyes, he seemed to regard me as his confessor, and began to tell me what an awfully wicked sinner he had been; but if, as he had said, there were no God and no devil, no heaven and no hell, why should he have been afraid to die, as he apprehended he would shortly? I did not upbraid him for his unbelief, but told him that if he had been such a great sinner I could direct him to a great Saviour. After conversing and praying with him for a time, his [194] mind seemed more composed, and I promised to go again and see him. Returning about 5 o'clock the next morning, I found that the fever had somewhat abated, and I again engaged in prayer. He promised that if restored to health he would lead a new life, which he could not possibly do without a new heart, or without being truly converted to God. To put him into the way of recovery, I made application for the admission of the sufferer into the New York Hospital, not that he was wanting means, but that he might have greater comfort and attention than at the hotel. After a visit from one of the doctors an order was granted, and I accompanied the poor fellow to the institution, and witnessed an inventory taken of his effects, which were handed over to the authorities, as was usual in such cases. I had not been in the ward many minutes before I observed another of our passengers sitting on his bed. He informed me that, attacked with fever, he had been taken to the hospital, he knew not when nor by whom. After reaching England, I received a letter from my Scotch fellow-traveller, who said that my "marked man" went to England in the same steamer as himself, having quite recovered from the fever. As regards his reformation, my friend said: "You knew he was bad enough before he was taken ill, and, if anything, he was worse than ever." Only the fear of death had made him such a great coward, and when he thought a fresh lease of life was granted, he did "despite to the Spirit of grace."

      Having seen to the sick, I prepared to depart. I was desirous of getting to the Falls of Niagara, but the difficulty which confronts most strangers is which route to take. The halls of the hotels are generally covered with bills, setting forth the advantages of the different routes to the north, south, east, and west. The traveller can go to the Falls by rail, or by part river and part rail. I preferred the latter, as it would afford me an opportunity of seeing a portion of the River Hudson and the pretty towns and villages upon its banks.

      At four in the afternoon of a warm day in the middle of August, I embarked on one of the large and powerful river steamers, intending to take the rail some forty or fifty miles up the river. Her fittings were elegant and tasteful, and her speed appeared to be unrivalled, for she passed all that she came up with. We soon left New York in the distance, and after passing the pretty islands near to New York and the Palasaides, we steamed away up this noble river, which was dotted with white sails and steamers going up and coming down. The Hudson River Railway runs along the bank, in some places at the water's [195] edge, at others a few feet back. At first I conjectured that it was only a wall, but I soon saw a train shoot by, which mocked our speed and left us far behind. There were several thriving and pleasantly situated towns and villages on the banks of the river, and in addition to the beautiful scenery a few interesting spots rendered memorable by the various engagements which took place in the vicinity during the struggle for independence. The steamer stopped at several places to land passengers, and the notice of her arrival and departure was announced by the ringing of a bell.

      About sunset the passengers for Niagara were landed at Newburg, a large town from which a line of railway connects with one for the Falls. It was dusk before the single car, which was to convey the few passengers forward, started. Not having travelled by rail for some sixteen years, I felt rather nervous when the iron horse started off at full speed. Our road for some distance from the banks of the river was hilly, but apparently well cultivated. The evening was warm and sultry, and as we passed along I observed large numbers of fire-flies by the roadside. There were several towns and villages along the road, and the railway frequently appeared to pass through them, so that as the time for repose drew near, I could observe first the closing of the shops, then the extinction of lights in the upper rooms, and finally total darkness; and being somewhat fatigued, I envied those who could thus retire to rest.

      Pleasures are generally purchased at the expense of fatigue, and the prospect of a view of the mighty Falls of Niagara on the morrow is not sufficient at the time to reconcile the traveller to the loss of sleep; but after one view, the price at which it is attained is scarcely worth the reckoning. During the night, the cars attached to our engine had increased in number at the different stations, and at daylight, having to change cars, I perceived that the passengers had so increased as to require a long train to convey them forward.

      Soon after sunrise, the cars were visited at each village or town by a number of youthful provision-merchants and fruit-sellers. These have access to the cars until they start, and then frequently have to leap for their life. The American railway cars are differently constructed to those in England. The former are longer, higher, and have more glass windows and venetian blinds than the latter. The interior also of the former is very different. They have two rows of stuffed and velvet-covered seats, which are intended to accommodate two persons, and, being [196] on a swing pivot, a party of four can sit opposite to each other. The cars are entered at the front and the back, and there being a passage down the centre of each, access may be had from one end of the train to the other. If a small cistern of ice-water were not placed in the middle of the car, boys were employed to attend upon the passengers, and supply them with this acceptable beverage throughout the warm days and nights of the American summer. With one or two exceptions there was but one class of cars--first class. On most of the lines there was a smoking-car, and a car for ladies who might be accompanied by their male relations or friends; but this practice was not deemed necessary on account of any disrespect or annoyance the females in America were subjected to; on the contrary, from what I witnessed and was assured of, they might travel alone, without experiencing insult or molestation, from one end of the country to the other.

      In the course of the morning we passed through several thriving towns (mostly built of wood), and a tolerably well cultivated country. It was harvest time; the wheat was in the sheaf, and was in many parts being gathered in. The farm-houses and farms appeared to lack both order and ornament. Mountains, forests, rivers, and canals varied the scenery, and the latter part of the journey was along the shores of Lake Erie, and not very distant from Niagara. This line of railway runs through the State of New York, and the distance from the city of New York to the Falls is, according to the route taken, from 400 to 500 miles. My fare, by steamer and railway, amounted to 6½ dollars, though another line charged only 5 dollars; and a third, by railway the whole distance, demanded as much as 7½ dollars. It was said that none of these rates paid the railway proprietors. I had missed seeing much of the country in the night, and also lost my rest; but the morning light disclosed a picture which excited admiration. It could plainly be seen that civilisation and cultivation were rapidly progressing in every direction, making a highway for the vast multitudes who were constantly passing onward to the far west.

      I did not hear the noise of the Falls till the cars stopped at Manchester, the town on the American side; and even here, though within half-a-mile, it was not loud. The distance at which their roar can be heard must depend partly on the wind; and the sound doubtless reaches much farther below the cataract than above it, as we were. There was a great rush of runners and waiters from the hotels at Manchester, to seize the travellers' luggage, which almost drowned the roar of the waters. After [197] setting down the passengers for the Falls, the cars went on to the Suspension Bridge, the track running along the bank of the river. Here I alighted, and found my way to an hotel to seek rest and refreshment. After two or three hours' sleep, I walked up the riverside, which was in many places shaded with trees, and had quite a park--like appearance. Beautiful views of the Falls and the stream beneath can be obtained at some of the bends in the river, from projecting points of land upwards of 200 feet high.

      The sun was just setting as I reached the Ferry-house, but there was sufficient light to enable one to behold, with wonder and delight, the mighty waterfalls. I imagine there are few who do not feel a silent awe as they approach the brink of the stupendous and indescribable cataracts, or else give audible expression to their amazement. Many have attempted to describe the sight, and their emotions on seeing it for the first time, but pen cannot adequately picture the extent and grandeur of its rushing, rolling, falling, seething volume. The Falls of Niagara form a chapter in the book of Nature which requires time and thought to read. The conception of a quantity of water gathered together in one place, and thence allowed to fall over an immense precipice, is no great tax on the imagination. But that a never-exhausted supply should thus for ages have rolled over into the river, lake, and sea beneath, is matter for infinite amazement; and may well prompt the enquiry, "By what mighty power is the supply kept up?" The manner in which these great floods are raised to their sources is as wise and perfect as the mode of their dispersion, though not nearly so perceptible. The dew, the rain, the ice, the snow--from these come all this majesty and power, and He who lifts them so gently, and distributes them where they are required, has also appointed a vast storehouse for their continual supply; but unlike men who gather into barns, He gathers but to give.

      One of the best positions from which to see the Horseshoe Fall is at the Ferry-house; and here those who can stand on the brink and look into the abyss below, may also obtain a good view of the American Fall. I stood thus for a few moments, but soon retired. A mere peep is quite sufficient for most persons, and it somewhat surprised me to see the number of ladies who ventured thus far, though I observed that they mostly sought the aid of their masculine companions. Having gratified my curiosity, I retired for the night, promising myself a second visit in the morning. The day had been extremely warm, and the evening [198] was not very cool, but the fatigue of travelling prepared me for a good night's rest.

      After breakfast the next morning I crossed the Suspension Bridge, which is as noble a work of Art as the Falls are of Nature. The height of this bridge is upwards of 200 feet, and its length about 800 feet. The toll for foot passengers was 25 cents, which included a return ticket if required. The principal points of interest to be seen from the bridge are the rapids just beneath, the lofty river banks, and, in the distance, a part of the Falls. The immense depth to the water and the height of the piers can only be realised to advantage by standing on the bridge itself.

      Proceeding up the bank on the Canada side, some fine views were obtained. The best view of the American Fall was to be had just by the ferry on this side, it being directly opposite. I was getting into the best position to enjoy this sight when I was beset by an eager cabman, who wished me to avail myself of his vehicle and of his extensive knowledge of all that was interesting and worth seeing. Some difficulty was experienced in getting rid of this intruder upon my enjoyment. He followed me from place to place, until he found I was determined not to patronise him. A little further on I was again annoyed in the same manner by cabmen and guides, who were a pest to all who wished to enjoy this noble sight alone, and to contemplate its grandeur. The interests of these people were so deeply concerned that it was not easy to convince them that their services were not required; and they were so extensively patronised by the Americans (who, in their pleasure-trips, must ride and be waited upon), that, from custom, they appeared to have almost made a law that travellers must ride. Besides, these travellers would probably have well-lined purses; whereas, from the loss I had sustained at the Isthmus, I had to study the strictest economy. The guides wished everyone to visit the Cave of the Winds, for which purpose they provided a suit of waterproof clothing; but I was not so venturesome as to visit this Cave, contenting myself with a view of the Horseshoe Falls from the Table Rock, or, rather, that part of the rock which was left when the Table Rock fell. A little below this spot there was a fine view of both Falls, with Goat Island in the centre, and the Tower a short distance from it. Just below the latter was a huge mass of rock, which bad fallen from above and brought the precipice within a few feet of the Tower. [This Tower, being considered dangerous, has since been taken down.] It was curious to observe the different shades in the color of the water, varying with the depth or thickness of the [199] volume. In the centre of the Horseshoe Fall, the water, when the sun shone upon it, was of a deep blue shade, and was seen through the cloud of white vapor which continually rises before it. The thickness of the body of water here was said to be 18 feet, and the height of the fall 180 feet.

      There were several schemes at this interesting place for wheedling money from the vast numbers of people whom pleasure or curiosity prompt to pay it a visit. There was one who made the death of a fellow-creature his means of living. A little wooden shop was erected on the high bank of the river, for the sale of fancy articles worked by American Indians and others--the customers being attracted by a sign showing it to be the spot where a young lady, while gathering flowers, fell over and was killed. At a little distance a blind man was seated on a bench, with a small peep-show beside him. I remarked that be should be doing well in such a situation, but he told me his palmy days were over. He said he had lost his sight in battle, and had been for twenty years located in this spot. He informed me that since the people had availed themselves of the numerous conveyances to visit the several points of interest, he had received very little support, as they generally rode past him. He also gave me to understand why the drivers of the vehicles offered to take persons at such low rates from the Suspension Bridge, or ferry, to the Falls. These drivers, he said, got so much for every visitor taken to a hotel; so that, after driving them along the bank, and giving them a budget of stereotyped information, they were handed over to an hotel-keeper, who scrupled not to charge his customers sufficient to pay "cabby's" commission.

      Several fatal cases of cholera occurred at Niagara at about the time of my visit, which frightened some persons away, and prevented others from going there. The victims were mostly Irish laborers, who lived in small shanties built of wood. In one case, no one being found to inter the corpse, the place was set fire to, and the body burned. This circumstance created much excitement and alarm; and, doubtless, the incident did not fail to be exaggerated as the news travelled.

      On my way back I halted at the bank above the ferry, and hesitated whether to re-cross the bridge, or venture in the little boat across the swirling stream; but I took courage, and walked down the winding carriage-road leading to the latter. The boat was pulled by one man, who must have well understood the various currents through which be had to pass. In the shallow water he would pull up in the direction of the Falls, affording his [200] clients opportunity for a good look at them from beneath; the boat would then be allowed to be carried with the stream, the ferryman, meanwhile, pulling out of one eddy into another, in the direction of the opposite bank. The little craft was tossed up and down like a cork, and the safety of all depended on each one sitting still, which some were not disposed to do when a little water splashed into the boat. The eddies formed by the contending currents were well worth seeing, and the agitation of the waters, with the loud roar of the Falls, rendered the crossing in this manner singularly interesting. The depth of water in the stream was estimated at 80 feet. At the ferry stairs a machine somewhat similar to those used in bringing up ore or coal from mines, and furnished with seats, was employed for conveying those persons to the top who wished to avoid the immense flight of stairs. Before ascending by either means, however, the visitor should walk up the rocks till quite near the bottom of the American Fall, and one of the finest and safest views can be had of the column of water only a few feet away, and which, on looking upwards, is seen to resemble a moving wall of glass being crushed to atoms underneath. The ferry-boat fare was 12 cents, and 6 cents more had to be paid if the lift were used; but no charge was made for ascending by the steps.

      The Ferry-house was built of wood, and in one place was covered with autographs in pencil, or names cut in wood, of hundreds of visitors. To enable them to leave these records, knives and pencils were sold on the spot. A daguerrotype artist provided his patrons with a picture of the Falls, with their own likenesses in the foreground; and a few American Indians had also taken up quarters here, and carried on a trade in curiosities and fancy articles, which they made up for sale.

      At a little distance from the Ferry-house a bridge led to Goat Island. There were some romantic walks through the island, and two or three leading to the foot of the Falls: but the most singular feature was its central position in regard to the local wonders of Science and Nature. Here are the falling waters, the rocks, and the rapids; railways on either hand, with the whistle of the locomotive contending with the roar of the waters; houses, gardens, and trees line the opposite banks; telegraph wires span the stream; and the Suspension Bridge is seen in the distance.

      Taking my leave of the Falls for a few days, I proceeded in a stage-coach to Lewiston, to go by steamer to Toronto. The road, which was a rough one, was along the bank of the Niagara River. We passed a few good houses, and a number of small [201] hovels (the residences of the Irish laborers then working on the railway from Rochester to Canada). This railway ran, for some distance, about half way up the lofty bank, and appeared from the heights above like a narrow ledge of rock. A suspension bridge was being constructed to carry it across the river below Whirlpool Reach and above Lewiston. This railway constituted one among many of the triumphs of art over almost insurmountable difficulties, and, on completion, would present a striking contrast to the rolling and jolting stage-coaches and their jog-trot pace.

      On the heights above Lewiston the view was extensive and beautiful. At the foot of the mountains, which terminated here, stood Lewiston, a pretty town on the bank of the river, which, on this side, was nearly level with the surrounding country. On the Canada side the bank was high and thickly-wooded. In the distance, beyond the town and the cultivated parts of the country around, thick forests of trees were seen; and the river was observed winding along till it lost itself in the distant, but just visible, waters of Lake Ontario. The descent to Lewiston was long and steep. The distance from the Falls was about seven miles, and the fare half-a-dollar.

      Between 4 and 5 o'clock in the afternoon the steamer started for Toronto. The charge for the passage was from a dollar to a dollar and a-half, without meals. After leaving the town of Niagara, the vessel steamed away at the rate of 14 or 15 miles an hour across the lake. About 9 o'clock we caught a glimpse of the lights of Toronto, and landed shortly after. In walking up the wharf, luggage in hand, I was brought to a stand by a watchman, who, by his lantern, took a survey of me and mine, and then allowed me to pass on. The Customs authorities were very strict here, on account of large quantities of contraband goods being brought over from the States. I walked up the quiet streets, and took up my quarters for the night at an hotel, which I found, like most others in this city, more resembled an English inn than did the United States hotels.

      Next day I took a tour round the city, which, in many respects, reminded me of the city of Adelaide. The streets were laid out, but many parts were unoccupied. The houses and shops were mostly built of brick, and not very high; but many of those in the business part had been rebuilt. The city was, in the first instance, principally built of wood, but several large and destructive fires having done considerable damage, that material was not again allowed to be used. There were some handsome [202] public buildings in the city, one of the finest being the college, which stood in an enclosed shrubbery, at a little distance from a beautiful avenue of trees called the "College Avenue." This was also open to the citizens as a promenade. The City Hall, market, banks, hospital, asylum, and the public schools, were also large, substantial buildings. In the more retired parts the houses were surrounded by gardens and shrubberies; and in some of the streets trees were planted on each side, as in New York and other cities of the States. On the following day, Sunday, I attended a Missionary Sunday-school. It was held in a chapel belonging to some African Methodists, and some of the colored children attended it, which was rarely permitted in Canada or in the States. The teachers belonged to different denominations, and I noticed with pleasure the cordiality that existed amongst them. At the close of the school I addressed the children, who listened attentively. One of the teachers invited me to attend with him the service of the Free Church of Scotland, and I did so. This building, which was named after Knox, was a large and handsome structure. In the afternoon I attended the Sunday-school belonging to this church, and addressed the children. I observed a marked difference between the children here and those I met with in the States. The former were better behaved and more orderly than the latter; but the school here, as in the States, was held but once a day. Canada appeared to have adopted many practices which prevailed in the States. The common school system, as in operation in the States, had been introduced into Canada, and was being vigorously carried out in Toronto.

      I was pleased to notice the manner in which the Lord's-day was observed in Toronto. At certain times in the day the streets were crowded with persons going to the various places of worship, but between those hours there were few persons to be seen. The weather was extremely hot while I was there, and several deaths from cholera had occurred. Special reference was made, both in prayer and preaching, to the ravages of this disease, and notices were posted up in the streets, informing persons where to apply for medicine on its first symptoms being known. Toronto, from its low position on the shores of Lake Ontario, was not, I was informed, and should imagine, a very healthful city. It is subject to fogs rising off the lake and low lands, and many suffer from fevers and ague at certain seasons of the year.

      The currency of Canada is exceedingly difficult for a new comer to understand, the United States, English, and Canada [203] shilling being each of different value. In change for a sovereign 24 shillings were counted out to me, and I thought I had brought my sovereigns to a good market, but on counting the change I found I had only 20 shillings sterling, the Toronto shilling being so much less in value than the English shilling.

      I expected to find an aunt at Toronto, but on enquiry discovered that she had gone to a village near the Niagara Falls for rest and recreation. She appeared to be well known at Toronto as an active Christian worker, and I was pleased to hear an excellent report of her. Intending to pay her a visit I left Toronto by the steamer, soon after sunrise on the morning of July 24. The lake was calm, and a slight fog rested upon its surface. As we approached the mouth of the River Niagara, the Americans were firing cannon from the Fort at Young's Town, near its entrance. The steamer called at the town of Niagara, which is better situated, and a more thriving place than the town on the opposite bank. Here was a British Fort, and a railway connected with the Falls and Chippewa. By the latter I went on to Clifton-house, over country which, though rapidly being brought under cultivation, was largely wild and rugged. On the mountain heights a fine panorama met the eye, extending to the shores of Lake Ontario, of dense forests, undulating land, corn fields, and farms. The railway was certainly not one of the best, and I was glad to reach Clifton-house. The fare for the journey of about fourteen miles was half-a-dollar. At the adjacent village of Drummondville I met the relative whom I had been seeking. We had not the slightest recollection of each other, and she afterwards confessed to having at first regarded me as a "book fiend," or itinerant vendor of literature--a very natural supposition, as my outfit and portmanteau were of true Yankee style, and I had already acquired a little of the nasal twang. On discovering my identity, however, she extended a hearty welcome, and during my stay she took me to the various places of interest in the locality of the Falls. On leaving my aunt I crossed Niagara by the ferry, and was again in the United States. I was told, by the way, that the American people consistently regret that the Canadian Fall is so much larger than the one properly pertaining to the United States; but as this cannot be altered, it is useless to grieve over the fact.

      Soon after being seated in the cars for Buffalo a youth passed through them, banding to each passenger an illustrated newspaper. I concluded that this line was very liberal in furnishing passengers with newspapers as well as ice-water, but the youth soon reappeared [204] and gathered up such as were not bought. A second and a third visit was paid to each car during this short journey, the vendor having various articles to dispose of. The charge from the Falls to Buffalo was half a dollar, and the road lay along the shores of Lake Erie.

      Before arriving at any place of importance, a person passed through the cars with a box, which he handed to each passenger. This box had several divisions, was covered over, and had small openings, like a money-box. Each division had the name of the hotels in the place where the train was going, and the openings were to put in the corresponding checks attached to the luggage which were given when it was deposited at the railway station. Passengers had only to put their check into the box labelled with the hotel at which they intended to stop. These checks were handed over to the several porters from the hotels, who received the luggage and conveyed it to its destination without further trouble to the owner, a trifling fee to the porter being all that was necessary. Unlike the railways in England, the railway companies in America did not, when I was there, employ porters to wait upon the passengers. Whatever assistance passengers required at the railway station in the removal of their luggage, they had to pay for, or do it themselves.

      Buffalo is a large and thriving city of a thoroughly cosmopolitan character, and is visited by most persons travelling to the West by way of Albany. The buildings are mostly of brick, and are, in the principal streets, large and handsome structures. There are some extensive manufactories there, and a large trade is carried on with the new western cities and intending settlers proceeding to the Far West. There are two or three canals passing through the city, supplied with water from the lake. The hotels there, as elsewhere, are on a large scale, to accommodate the thousands of persons passing weekly through the city. In one part there is a shady promenade, with a marble fountain playing in the centre. I found that the cholera was very prevalent at Buffalo, and that many had fallen victims to this dire disease.

      Having taken my passage for Cincinnati, about 8 o'clock in the evening I went on board a steamer for Sandusky. There was a band playing on the upper deck, and the hurrying passengers presented a busy scene. The lake and river steamers had an office near the gangway, where those who wished to embark could procure tickets. There was a room close by for luggage, which was taken charge of by porters, who expected a fee upon [205] giving it up to the owners. The bell having rung, we were soon in motion, and steaming at a rapid rate over the quiet waters of the lake. These steamers were not inappropriately termed "floating palaces," and resembled more the flights of imagination than substantial realities. The upper cabin consisted of two saloons, each about eighty feet long, and separated by a partial division, with an open space on either side. They were handsomely furnished with carpets, tables, sofas, chairs, and looking glasses, and were lighted with large candelabra, etc. In the ladies' saloon of the one I travelled by there was a piano, and the place was plentifully decorated with mirrors, bouquets of flowers, etc. At intervals during the evening the band on deck, the piano, and some negro performers in the saloon alternately gave forth their strains. Part of this entertainment, however, was on account of competition and opposition. A rival steamer for Cleveland started a little before us, and before we separated, our captain sent up some rockets as a challenge, but as it was not accepted, we pursued our course alone. It was a fine evening, and here and there upon the lake the lights of steamers could be seen; but being fatigued by the day's journey, I left the lively scene, and sought a good night's rest in a comfortable cabin with everything scrupulously clean.

      Soon after daylight next morning I perceived we were nearly out of sight of land, and steamers and sailing-vessels were going in various directions. These fresh-water lakes, or inland seas, were of surprising extent, and could be traversed from one to the other for about 1,000 miles. About 8 o'clock the tables in the saloon were spread with dainty and substantial fare, and a number of waiters were in attendance. Shortly after breakfast we entered the harbor of Sandusky, the band playing till the passengers had disembarked. The charge for this journey of 200 miles, with cabin and meals, was only two dollars; and four dollars for the whole distance to Cincinnati, nearly 200 miles further by railway. Sandusky is a large town about forty miles beyond Cleveland, and was likely to become a powerful rival of the latter city, being farther to the west; but the shallow entrance to the harbor was against it. The town was built principally of brick, and there were large stores for the reception of produce and the storage of goods.

      The train for Cincinnati was awaiting the arrival of the steamer, and started as soon as the passengers had been taken up. After traversing a few miles of cultivated country we entered some of the large forests of the West, and for a hundred miles or [206] so little was seen but the tall trees on either hand. Here and there a few acres had been cleared, and were under cultivation; and the log huts of the backwoods-men gave indication that these vast woods would shortly be levelled and become the habitations of man. In two or three open places a few houses had been erected, and no doubt these spots have now become thriving towns and villages. These forests passed, our route lay through the arable lands of the State of Ohio. The wheat harvest had been gathered in, but the Indian corn was in the ear. I observed several large orchards, in which the apple-trees were laden with fruit. The major portion of the railroad was only a single line, and on two occasions the train had to wait at a loop for half-an hour for another to pass. Halting once by the side of an orchard, the passengers amused themselves by gathering and eating the fruit which overhung the road.

      It was about 9 o'clock in the evening when Cincinnati was reached. The evening was warm, and I observed, on passing along the streets, that the inhabitants generally were availing themselves of the open-air, and either stood in front of their residences or promenaded the streets. I stayed at an hotel for the night, and next morning took a stroll round this so-called "queen city of the West," but was somewhat disappointed, not in its size, but with its appearance. The city was large, but the buildings, with the exception of those of a public character, were generally small. At the season of the year when the water was too low for river navigation, business was very slack.

      I observed a number of large steamboats lying, almost high and dry, upon the banks of the Ohio, and on some of the bars of the river there was not more than a foot or eighteen inches of water. The railway, however, which passes through here from St. Louis to the cities of the East, will materially increase the trade, and do away with much traffic on the river.

      Being in this city on the Lord's-day, I attended one of the churches of the Reformation, and was much pleased with the form of worship and the manner in which it was conducted. There were four of these churches in the city, and a considerable amount of talent and zeal was in active operation, extending a knowledge of the Gospel. I also visited a Congregational church, but the preacher was too flowery and poetic to please me. I attended two Sunday-schools, which, with the exception of the absence of so many of the scholars, I was very well pleased with. These institutions, I was informed, engaged largely the attention of the religious community, and were well supported. I was told [207] that the Young Men's Christian Association in the city was composed principally, if not wholly, of Sunday-school teachers.

      The Roman Catholics were very numerous in Cincinnati, and they have a large and handsome cathedral. Most of the other places of worship are large and well fitted up, and have organs and choirs. Passing a Methodist Episcopal church, I observed that the preacher wore a black gown similar to those worn by ministers of the Church of England. Most of the religious bodies in this and other cities had a book store for the sale of the several books and publications published by each denomination.

      The cholera was prevalent at the time I visited Cincinnati. The heat was very great, and the thermometer stood at 104 deg. in the shade. During my stay I saw some new-fashioned coffins and hearses there, with a singular application of glass. The coffins had a piece of glass placed over that part which would afford a view of the countenance of the corpse; the sides of the hearses were principally composed of plate-glass, displaying to view the coffin inside. The latter style has been generally adopted in Adelaide since I was in. America, but not, I think, the former.

      Fires were of frequent occurrence in Cincinnati, and a novel fire-engine, worked by steam, was in effective and general use. On the night before I left I was aroused by the noise caused by the report of a fire and the engines passing through the streets. By this means I was deprived of that sleep which I required to enable me to pass the next night without any.

      Next morning, being unable to proceed by the steamer, on account of the shallow water in the river, I started by the railway to Cambridge, to proceed from thence to Wheeling by a stage coach. Our route for some distance was along the banks of the Ohio. I observed some fine vineyards on the slopes in the vicinity of Cincinnati. The remainder of the day's journey was through the southern part of the State of Ohio, passing several towns, and for the most part a cultivated country. About 9 o'clock the passengers had to alight and enter a stage-coach, the Cambridge Tunnel having fallen in. On arrival at the coaching-house, the passengers had to wait till their places were assigned them in the coaches, and they were then driven on at a rapid rate. During the night we passed through several towns, changed horses four or five times, and soon after sunrise next morning reached the Ohio River. The view as we descended was exceedingly picturesque, the mist of the morning hanging over the water, and the smoke curling upwards above the lofty hills. When near the bottom of the hills we met a number of [208] vehicles laden with negroes, male and female, dressed in holiday attire, with music and flags, and appearing full of glee. I found that they were going to keep the anniversary of their emancipation, the date being August 1. Soon after leaving this happy company, we crossed the fine suspension bridge which separated the free State of Ohio from the slave State of Virginia.

      On arrival at Wheeling I went to an hotel, where a number of sable waiters were in attendance, one with a brush in hand to dust travellers, and others equally attentive to their wants. The railway travelling in summer in America is very disagreeable, the roads being dusty and the windows of the cars having to be open on account of the beat. After refreshment and rest, I proceeded on my journey to Wellsburg, on the banks of the Ohio, and thence, through a romantic country, to the pretty village of Bethany, for the purpose of visiting Elder Alexander Campbell, whose debate with the Rev. N. L. Rice, on "Baptism," I had been reading and studying, as opportunity offered, on my way from Australia. I had come to the conclusion that Mr. Campbell had decidedly the best of the argument, and that the position he took was amply supported by the New Testament Scriptures. Under these circumstances it was with peculiar pleasure that I made the personal acquaintance of this able and venerable champion of the truth. I was cordially welcomed to his hospitable home, which I concluded was appropriately named "Salem," and the locality "Bethany." After all my long and weary journeys I here found rest and peace-rest for the body and peace for the mind. To spend a few days in the company of the Grand Old Man more than compensated for the fatigue I had endured and the loss I had sustained in my adventurous journey from Adelaide to Bethany. The latter place is situated in a hilly country a few miles from the River Ohio, and here is situated the College, which has sent forth hundreds of Bible students and preachers of the Gospel to all parts of America, and to other places. The College is a noble pile of buildings, and is well worthy of its founder and of the cause of Christianity.

      I shall here only give a few extracts from my diary, as to the way I spent my time during my brief sojourn at Bethany: Wednesday, August 2.--Felt rather fatigued with my long journeys, the warm weather proving very trying. Conversed with Mr. A. Campbell in the morning on subjects connected with Christianity, which, he said, ought classically to be designated "Christology." He handed me his work on "The Christian System," with a request that I would read it and give him my [209] opinion about it. In the evening I went to Bethany Chapel with Mrs. Campbell to attend the week-night service there. This lady had marks of sorrow on her countenance, and on the way she told me of the great grief she had had in consequence of the loss of members of her family, who had fallen victims to consumption. The white marble tombstones in the little family cemetery on a

THE LATE ELDER A. CAMPBELL.

hill opposite their dwelling told a tale of sadness in confirmation of what Mrs. Campbell told me. The chapel was extremely neat and commodious, without any pretension to architectural display; and the service was simple and edifying. Hymns were sung, prayers were offered up, and two or three addresses and exhortations were delivered. [210]

BETHANY COLLEGE, VIRGINIA; FOUNDED BY ELDER A. CAMPBELL. [211]

      Thursday, August 3.--The weather was still warm, and I was still feeling the effects of my long journeys. After family worship, spent some time in conversation with Mr. Campbell, when the subject of "the birth of water and the Spirit" came under review. In opposition to the view that the "water" was to be understood as the "word," he said that, if the water did not mean water, it might as logically be affirmed that the Spirit did not mean Spirit.

      Friday, August 4.--Occupied in morning reading the "Christian System," and in the evening in conversation with Mr. Campbell, who told me of his aversion to controversy in the early part of his ministry. Such being his feelings, it is strange that he should have become one of the greatest public debaters of the nineteenth century; but I suppose it is no stranger than the fact that naturally I shrank from any public position until a strong sense of duty enabled me to overcome my natural reluctance. Mr. Campbell told me that when he began his work as a preacher he went to the West to sow the seed among the thousands that were constantly going in that direction, concluding that they would carry the tidings of the Gospel with them. In these journeys he travelled for hundreds of miles on horseback, and was sometimes absent from home for three or four months. His mind was always occupied with the great theme of redemption, and while putting up at hotels he would jot down thoughts that had suggested themselves while journeying along the road. He said that these itineraries, though he was occasionally subjected to annoyances, were among the happiest days of his life.

      Saturday, August 5.--Reading the "Christian System" and conversing with Mr. Campbell. Having fully satisfied my mind that the immersion of a believer, upon a confession of faith in the Lord Jesus Christ, is Christian baptism according to the Scriptures, I ventured to ask Mr. Campbell the question the Ethiopian eunuch put to Philip, the evangelist. His answer was that no more was required of me than was required of the eunuch. He pointed out that Christian baptism embraced in its import and signification the plan of salvation, and shadowed forth the death, burial, and resurrection of the Lord Jesus Christ.

      Lord's-day, August 6.--Preparations were made for my baptism, ant two or three of the brethren were sent for to be present on the occasion. After breakfast and family worship we took changes of clothing with us, and walked across a field or two till we came to a suitable place for the immersion, in Buffalo Creek. The formula was a very simple one, and consisted in [212] asking me if, on the testimony of the Prophets and Apostles, I believed that Jesus is the Christ, the Son of the Living God. On answering in the affirmative, Elder Campbell immersed me into the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost. Thus ended the controversy that had been going on in my mind for a long time, and I realised the blessedness of the obedience I had rendered to the Lord Jesus Christ, according to His own command. I felt that so far as baptism was concerned, I must be right at last. When an infant, and not expected to live, a kind aunt urged upon my mother to have me baptised (or sprinkled), as it would be a serious reflection if I died without this being done. My mother complied with this request, and had me sprinkled privately; and afterwards when I recovered, I understood the sprinkling was attended to publicly in the orthodox way. I had also been "confirmed," but I felt in my own conscience that none of these things could properly take the place of what Christ had ordained and commanded.

      After dressing and handing our wet clothes to an attendant, we walked on to Bethany Chapel to attend the morning worship. Mr. Campbell presided, and after a hymn had been sung, he poured out his heart in prayer and thanksgiving to God for all His many mercies and blessings. In his address the Elder spoke of the great privileges enjoyed by the Christian in this life, and the glorious prospects that opened up in the life to come. He concluded with a brief exhortation to Christians to grow in the Divine life, to desire "the sincere milk of the Word, that they might grow thereby," and "feed by faith upon the Son of God, who loved them and gave Himself for them." His style was simple, unaffected, and conversational; and his words seemed to flow from a heart full of the love of God and the grace of the Lord Jesus Christ. At the close of his discourse the Elder announced my presence, and the fact of my immersion that morning; also that I would address the Sunday-school in the afternoon. He then came down to the Communion-table, and, uncovering the vessels thereon, remarked that there was a great feast for those present, of the Lord's own providing--a wonderful feast, not for the body, but for our spiritual nature. "How dear," he said, "are the last words of a friend! and what dearer or greater friend can we have than the One who has died for us, and commanded us to 'do this' in remembrance of Him." After giving thanks for the bread, it was broken and handed to the deacons, who took it around to the communicants; thanks were likewise given for the cup, which was [213] also conveyed in a similar manner to the participants. After the singing of a hymn the contributions were received, the benediction pronounced, and the service ended. I rode home with Mr. and Mrs. Campbell, and in the afternoon gave my promised address to the Sunday-scholars, who listened attentively. Walked home to "Salem" to tea, and back to the chapel in the evening, where Mr. LeMare, an evangelist who was going to Augusta, in Georgia, conducted the service. Thus ended my first Lord's-day at Bethany--a day that I could ever look back to with extreme pleasure and satisfaction.

      Monday, August 7.--A delightful day, calm, but the heat not oppressive. The weather corresponded with the state of my mind, and I enjoyed more converse with my host on the grand theme in which we were both so deeply interested. Went to dine with Dr. Campbell, who was pleased to hear about Australia, and appeared to be much interested in missionary operations. In the evening there was a party of friends to tea at "Salem," to take leave of Mr. LeMare, and I was introduced to several of them. After tea, the evening was spent in profitable conversation, interspersed with music and singing hymns. Miss Campbell informed me that her father and mother were great talkers, and she had little chance to join in. In the intervals for music and singing, however, I saw that she could do her part as well as any of them.

      Tuesday, August 8.--Another beautiful day, and I felt that I could enjoy the beauties of Nature more than ever before; and not only these, but the joy of the Holy Spirit. I was writing through the day; and in the evening we had conversation, hymns, and prayer, in which I had the privilege to take part.

      Wednesday, August 9.--Engaged morning and afternoon writing an article on "Australia," for the Millennial Harbinger, by request of its editor (Mr. A. Campbell). Went to tea at the College, and saw several of the students. Afterwards attended the week-night service at the chapel, when several engaged in prayer; and walked home with Mrs. Campbell. I found that Mrs. Campbell could talk as well as Mr. Campbell, and her theme of conversation was much the same as that of her husband, namely, the great work of redemption by Jesus Christ.

      Thursday, August 10.--Writing article for my South Australian Sunday-school Magazine, and conversing with Mr. A. Campbell as opportunity offered, through the day; and in the evening turned my thoughts to my approaching departure. [214]

      Friday, August 11.--Writing an article for the Child's Paper in the morning; and in the afternoon visited the cemetery, where several of the Campbell family had been interred. From the top of this hill there was an extensive view of Bethany and the surrounding country. In the evening reading and conversation, with family worship, brought the day to a close.

      Saturday, August 13.--In the course of the morning a carriage called for us, and we were driven to Mr. A. Campbell's to dinner. This gentleman, a son of the elder's, as the Hon. A. Campbell, visited the Australian Colonies a few years since as Commissioner from the United States to make inquiries as to productions, trade, etc. Mrs. A. T. Magarey is a daughter of this gentleman. In the afternoon we walked to the book store, which gave me a good idea of the magnitude of the literary work of Elder A. Campbell. He made a selection of his numerous works, which he presented to me, and I was pleased to possess them. His complete writings constitute a theological library of about sixty volumes.

      Lord's-day, August 13.--The Elder took me with him in a buggy to a place called the Dutch Fork, about seven or eight miles from Bethany. This was one of his earliest preaching-stations, but, from his numerous engagements, he had not been there for two or three years. Our road at first was along the banks of a creek at the foot of hills, the sides of which were occasionally covered with Indian corn and forest trees. After proceeding four or five miles, we began to ascend the ranges; the clouds, which had threatened rain at starting, now cleared away, the sun shone brightly forth, and the view of the surrounding country became more extended and beautiful. Here were mountains and streams of water, valleys, woodlands, cornfields, and meadows, intermixed as far as the eye could reach. The scene which Nature presented was indeed a lovely one; but a more beautiful and pleasing sight I afterwards found was in store for me. As we drew near to the place of meeting we observed numbers going in that direction--some walking, but the greater number riding on horseback and in almost every kind of vehicle. As we passed round the side of a hill a busy scene presented itself--a scene which was no doubt familiar to the Elder, but was quite new to me. Along the entrance to a shaded glen, horses were fastened to rails and vehicles of various kinds covered the ground for a considerable distance. Here we halted, and added ours to the number. It was understood that Elder A. Campbell would be present, and this, no doubt, induced a larger attendance [215] than ordinary. At the further end of the glen stood the meetinghouse, which, not being large enough for the congregation, was not used on the present occasion; the seats, however, had been brought out and placed under the shade of some sycamore trees. These seats were appropriated to the females, while planks of timber and grassy hillocks served for seats for the males. The service commenced by the singing of a hymn or two, followed by prayer. Elder A. Campbell then read the first chapter of Hebrews, and delivered a lengthy and interesting discourse well suited to the rural congregation present. At its conclusion a hymn was sung, and the disciples arranged themselves as conveniently as possible for commemorating their Lord's death, which was done by most of those present. The evangelist who had taken part in the service gave notice that there would be another meeting at 5 p.m., and two on the morrow--one at 11 a.m., the other at 5 p.m. The meeting I attended lasted nearly three hours. The horses and vehicles were again in requisition, and began to move off the ground. There were probably between 200 and 300 present. The Elder told me he had often seen more than 1,000 assemble in this manner, and that the scene often reminded him of the words, "The chariots of Israel and the horsemen thereof." We returned home by a better road than that we had passed along in the morning, and the scenery was quite as beautiful and picturesque. Everything was tranquil--the declining sun shone brightly on the hill-tops; there was not a breeze to shake the leaves or the tall stalks of Indian corn; and the cultivated and uncultivated parts of the country seemed alike hushed in one of Nature's sweet reposes. We arrived at Bethany, however, but just in time to escape a heavy shower of rain which suddenly arose and as quickly passed over. The Elder was somewhat fatigued with the journey, and no wonder--having driven over about fifteen miles of rough and hilly country, and delivered a long address in the open air.

      Monday, August 14.--After breakfast, walked to Bethany with Mr. A. Campbell, and visited the Printing Office and Book Store. Here he wrote a letter, certifying as to my baptism, and commending me to such Churches or brethren as I might wish to communicate with. In this letter, dated Bethany, August 14, 1854, the Elder says:--"It gives me pleasure to introduce to your acquaintance and Christian fellowship the bearer, our beloved brother in the faith and hope of the glorious Gospel of the Blessed God--Henry Hussey--who, on the confession of his faith in the original Gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ, was immersed [216] into the name of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit; and united with the Church of Christ in this place, August 6." This letter is signed: "Alexr. Campbell, one of the elders of the Church of Christ at Bethany, Virginia, U. S. of America." As I was to depart on the morrow, Mrs. Campbell gave me some mementoes of Bethany in the shape of portraits, magazines, handkerchiefs, gloves, etc. She knew of the loss of my luggage, and showed her kindness and consideration in supplying the last-named articles. In giving me a portrait of her husband, she expressed regret that it was not one of the best that had been taken of him, as it made him look too stern--a feature which represented him more as a hard student than as a husband, father, and friend. In this I concurred, as in my intercourse with him I found him affable, gentle, and kind.

      Tuesday, August 15.--Packed up and prepared for my departure, which I felt would cause me pain, and some regret on the part of those with whom I had enjoyed a season of sweet fellowship and Christian communion; but, like all other earthly meetings, the partings must come. The pleasant memories of Bethany, I knew, would remain long after the separation took place; and this, I found, was the case not only as regards myself, but the family circle there. In a letter from Mr. Campbell, dated Bethany, June 1, 1855, he says:--"We all gratefully remember your kind visit to Bethany, and the pleasure we enjoyed in your company; the more recent pleasure of reading your very interesting narrative of the Australian Colonies, together with your notes of a voyage from Australia to Panama, etc.; your tour through some of the American States during last year, from all of which we have derived pleasure, entertainment, and edification." My departure was delayed by the tires of the wheels of the buggy coming off that was to take me to Wheeling. About 2 o'clock the leave-taking came, and a start was made from Bethany with the thought that in all probability I would never see it again. We journeyed through beautiful scenery, embracing some of the finest mountain views in Western Virginia; passing through the pretty village of West Liberty (one of the oldest settlements in this part of the country), and arriving at Wheeling in the evening. This is a large manufacturing town on the Ohio. In the hills along the river and for some miles inland coal is plentiful. Much of the mineral is reached by level drives, and is conveyed in shoots down the steep banks into the steamboats and barges below, or else wheeled in barrows and deposited just outside the mines. The young man [217] who drove me appeared by his conversation to have an unfavorable opinion of the English; and t suppose that most of the native youth entertain similar ideas. He said that if the English had the power, they would oppress the people of the United States as they did before the Declaration of Independence.

      Next morning I started by rail for Baltimore, a distance of 380 miles; the charge for this journey in the first-class cars was 8 dollars, and in the second-class (the first I had met with), 5 dollars. The road for some distance was through a level country along the banks of the Ohio, and afterwards by the valleys and over the heights of the Alleghany Mountains--the wildest and most romantic course imaginable for railway cars to pass along. Sometimes we were whirled on a ledge of rocks around the side of a mountain, whose summit rose far above us, while beneath was a silent valley, with a little stream just visible through the branches of the trees; then tunnels were passed through with huge masses of rock on either hand and above, threatening to fall upon us as we entered--I counted no fewer than ten of these tunnels, some of them very long, and none arched over: and not content with either of these passes, we occasionally ran along the top of the ranges, and looked down on immense precipices on either side. To a beholder on a neighboring mountain-top, the sight of these cars travelling at such a height must, I should imagine, appear both novel and wonderful. Here and there patches of cultivated ground c n opposite hills told of the determination of man to keep pace with the railway and subdue the land along its most difficult and dreary paths. For some distance the only dwellings passed were a few small cabins. Towards evening we began to descend to a more level and inhabited part, ran through two or three towns, and halted for refreshments at Cumberland, at the foot of the mountains. Travelling all night through tolerably open country, Baltimore was reached about 7 o'clock next morning. The line of railway was a most costly undertaking, and is a triumph of engineering; it is in some respects similar to the one over our Mount Lofty Ranges, but the latter is better laid, and its tunnels, being arched over, present a more finished appearance. The travelling on the road to Baltimore is slow, as a high speed would be unsafe in going over and along the sides of the mountains.

      After breakfast, I started by railway for the city of Washington, a distance of about 40 miles from Baltimore. The charge for a single ticket was 1½ dollars, and a return ticket 2 dollars--good for one day only. The road is through an [218] undulating and picturesque country, with farms and country seats here and there. We arrived about 11 o'clock, and were beset by a host of omnibus--men and porters from the various hotels, who certainly must be a pest to all who are not accustomed to them. The approaches to the city were not very imposing; but on ascending the rising ground leading to it, a glimpse could be had of its magnificent marble buildings. After this site had been selected for the capital, General Washington made the following singular arrangement, on behalf of the United States, with the owners of the land upon which the city was to be built:--The owners were to retain every other lot, and for such parts of the land as were to be taken for squares, walks, etc., they were to be allowed £25 per acre, the public having the right to reserve such parts of the wood on the land as they might think necessary for the ornament of the city. Property did not become valuable for some time, until it was seen that the city was likely to become of considerable importance. It is laid out on a most extensive scale, and has several noble avenues or streets branching out in each direction from the Capitol.

      I visited two or three of the principal places of interest in the city--the Capitol, Patent Office, and Smithsonian Institute. The Capitol is one of the finest buildings in the United States, and, probably, in the world. It stands on an eminence, and the approach to it is through an ascending artificial shrubbery to a flight of steps, leading to the principal entrance, and the various courts and offices below. On this terrace there is a marble monument to the memory of the great heroes who fell in the conflict for independence, and at a little distance from it a marble fountain. Here there is a fine view of the exterior of the building, which is entirely of white marble, with spacious balconies, surmounted with parapets and statues. The entire length is 750 feet, and consists of a centre, surmounted by a dome 120 feet high, and two wings. The building covers an area of 31 acres. The centre flight of steps at the end of the hall leads to the magnificent rotunda, which is divided into four parts, having four doors, one at the entrance, and one opposite, opening out to the large balcony in front; and one on either side leading to the Hall of Congress and Senate Chamber. Between each door there are two very large and beautiful historical and national paintings; the following are the subjects:--The Landing of Columbus; Embarkation of the Pilgrim Fathers; Baptism of Pocahontos (an Indian female of Virginia) in 1613; Declaration of 'Independence; Surrender of Lord Cornwallis; Surrender of [219] General Burgoyne; Resignation of General Washington, and one space that was not filled in when I was there. The Congress and Senate Chambers were fitted up with a greater regard for convenience than for elegance; and as they had not been dusted since the sitting of Congress, which had just broken up, I did not see them to advantage. There were porters in attendance to escort visitors to the top of the dome, but no fee was asked or expected. Here I had a good view of this fine city that was to be, and the surrounding country. The principal public buildings and most thickly populated part of the city were seen to the right. Looking down the centre avenue, the President's house and Ordnance Department were seen in the distance; in another direction the Park and Smithsonian Institute; and to the left, the River Potomac, with its bridge of little arches a mile long. The dockyards lay at the back of the Capitol, and there were not many buildings in that direction.

      I spent a few hours in the Patent Office, while, to see all that there was to be seen would require as many weeks or months. The building, which was also of white marble, formed three sides of a square, and covered a large area. Part of it was unfinished at the time of my visit, and for want of enclosure it looked like an immense and elegant marble palace placed upon a barren piece of land. In one part of the building was the National Gallery, in which were collections of natural history and mineralogy from all parts of the world, and most of the articles used by the American Indians. I was principally interested in the camp equipage of General Washington, in reading the original document containing the Declaration of Independence, and several of the first treaties with the United States. One other object of interest to me was the press at which Franklin worked 190 years ago. When on a visit to England, in 1768, he went into a printing office, and said:--"Come, my friends! we will drink together--it is now forty years since I worked at this press as a journeyman printer!" One of the rooms in the wing Of this building was set apart for small working models of all patented inventions. It was between 400 feet and 500 feet long; the top of this room consisted of three arches of marble--a large central one, and a smaller one on each side.

      The General Post Office, another fine building of white marble, stood near the Patent Office. An interesting relic was preserved here, viz., the book in which Benjamin Franklin, when Postmaster-General, kept the whole of the accounts for the several States then in existence. [220]

      I visited the Smithsonian Institution, which was founded by an English gentleman of fortune named Smithson. He left a large sum of money to the people of the United States, the terms of the bequest being as follow:--"To the United States of America, to found at Washington, under the name of the Smithsonian Institution, an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." As the instructions given by the donor were not very definite and specific, the trustees experienced some difficulty in their work. They erected a spacious building of red stone, which, for architectural beauty and design, was said to be unsurpassed. The disbursements up to the time of my visit had amounted to about 400,000 dollars. In the picture gallery there was an interesting collection of paintings of North American Indians. They comprised accurate portraits of forty different tribes, obtained at the cost of a two years' tour through the south-western prairies, New Mexico, California, and Oregon. The Indians were represented in every variety, from the rudest condition of barbarism to the highest state of civilisation to which they had attained. There was a portrait of We-cha-lah-nac-he, or The Spirit (surnamed John Huss), a regularly-ordained minister of the Presbyterian Church. The following is an extract from a letter of his, written in the Cherokee language, in 1841. He says:--"We have built a house of God, and meet on the Lord's-day to pray and preach the Gospel; we have also a Sunday-school, a Temperance Society, and a Bible Society." He adds: "The people are gradually improving under the influence of the Gospel." Another striking painting represented a great Indian Council, held in the month of June, 1843, at which there were present delegates from seventeen tribes and about 10,000 Indians. In the library, beneath a bust of Smithson, is displayed the following, written and signed by him:--"Any man is a valuable member of society, who, by his observations, researches, and experiments, procures knowledge for men." The monument to the memory of General Washington has since been erected near the Smithsonian Institution. It is 555 feet in height, and 75 feet wide at the base, and each State has a stone in it.

      I visited the rooms of the Young Men's Christian Association. It appeared to be a thriving and prosperous institution, possessing a good library and a valuable collection of periodicals. Here I was furnished with an address to procure lodgings during my short stay. In the evening a bell attracted me to a place where a religious service was being held. I was subsequently engaged in conversation for a long time with some of the [221] attendants, and did not reach my prospective lodging till after 10 o'clock. To my disappointment I then found that the apartments were all occupied. I was supplied, however, with another address, and by 11 o'clock was shown into a large and handsomely-furnished room, which I have no doubt while Congress was in session was occupied by one of the Senators of the United States. Here I lay in state till next morning, thankful for a resting-place provided for me in time of need. Thus I found, after all, that the address given had been the means of obtaining respectable lodgings.

      While I was in Washington, the Methodists were making preparations to hold a camp meeting a few miles from the city. These are held periodically. Tents and tabernacles are pitched, and every day for about a week there is preaching, praying, and singing, and in the intervals picnic parties and festive enjoyments pass away the time. The greatest excitement and enthusiasm prevails, and large numbers of conversions are reported at these meetings. I was informed that at least 10,000 persons were expected to attend the one then about to be held.

      Having spent two days in Washington, I returned to Baltimore. This large and busy city, built mainly of brick, looked very clean and neat. Not having time to go over it, I ascended the Washington Monument there, of white marble, 180 feet high; and from the top, which is reached by 228 steps, the view extended beyond the city to the Patapsco River and Chesapeake Bay. Many of the public buildings are conspicuous by their handsome domes or cupolas, and the numerous large churches presented a fine array of towers, turrets, and spires. A commodious market here was abundantly stocked with meat, dairy produce, vegetables, and fruit. For 5 cents I purchased and enjoyed a fine water-melon, the first I had tasted since leaving Australia. I visited the depot of the Bible and Tract Society, and the rooms of the Young Men's Christian Association, the latter of which appeared to be second only to those of New York. The religious and benevolent societies were numerous and well-supported in this city.

      Roman Catholicism was very strong at Baltimore, and the local Protestants appeared to be united in their efforts to counteract its influence. The Catholics have a fine Cathedral, surmounted by a dome. I looked in on passing; a female was cleaning the parts around the altar, which appeared to occupy her some time, on account of the numerous acts of devotion she felt bound to perform in what, to her, was so sacred a locality. After [222] dusting one particular part she knelt, and rising to her work would frequently repeat her obeisance till her duty was completed, no doubt; but I did not wait till that time. It is sad to think of the veneration these people have for "high altars," priests, etc., while at the same time they are ignorant of true spiritual worship.

      The railway from Wheeling, and the branch one from Washington, extended from here to Philadelphia, and thence to New York; but getting tired of the dust, smoke, and heat in the railway cars, I took my passage on August 18 in a steamer for Philadelphia. The charge by railway was 3 dollars, and by steamer 2, meals extra. I found this change in the mode of travelling a very agreeable one, and was pleased to see a Bible on the cabin table of the steamer for the use of the passengers. The city had a fine appearance from the water. In the afternoon we steamed through Chesapeake Bay, and in the evening passed through the canal and the city bearing the same name. The next morning, soon after daylight, we steamed through Delaware Bay and River, passing the dock-yards and some large manufactories.

      The city of Philadelphia is pleasantly situated on the banks of the River Delaware. Opposite the city the channel is divided by two pretty islands, which are places for bathing and recreation. As at New York, steam ferry-boats were busy plying to and from each side of the river and the islands. I landed about 7 o'clock, and walked up some of the streets. The shops were open at that early hour, and business people were mostly at their posts.

      The buildings were principally of brick, and near to the wharves had a more aged appearance than those of the other cities I had seen in America. The shops and warehouses also, I observed, were not so large as those in New York, but were well stocked with goods. The city is laid out on a very extensive scale; and although it did not number so many inhabitants, it covered a much larger space than New York. A considerable part of it was quite new, the buildings, of brick with white marble steps and facings, and fitted with venetian blinds and shutters, being nearly all uniform. Much of the neatness of Philadelphia and its excellent regulations, are attributed to the large proportion of Friends who reside there. Notwithstanding its cleanliness, however, cholera had obtained an entrance, and I observed several of the white shutters of the houses partially closed, and a small piece of black crape suspended outside. [223]

      I paid an early visit to the depot of the American Sunday-school Union. This was a large establishment, occupying extensive five-story premises. The land was 229 feet deep. At each extremity of the cellar was a large furnace, to heat the front and rear of the building, and midway a fireproof vault, 49 feet by 15 feet, and another beneath the pavement, served as storerooms for the stereotype plates. The ground floor was the saleroom and counting-house; the first floor was appropriated to the use of the managers, secretaries, and editors, and for stocking the various cheap libraries, some of which were assorted and kept in readiness to be dispatched immediately on the arrival of a telegraphic message from any of the States; the flat above this was used for printed sheets or unbound books, and various offices; the fourth story was appropriated to engraving processes, and infant-school cards, sheets, and maps; and the fifth contained tracts, sermons, periodicals, etc. I was furnished with some interesting papers showing the extensive operations of this society for assisting Sunday-schools; and here, as well as at all the other institutions visited in the United States, I met with the greatest civility and attention, and, from the obliging manner of the officers and those in attendance, I am convinced that others would be similarly treated.

      I inspected the City Hall, and was shown the room and furniture where the Declaration of Independence was read and signed. Here is part of the step upon which the Secretary stood to read it, and the bell that was rung at the time. A singular fact connected with this bell is worth recording. It was ordered from England by the Colonial Government twenty-three years before the Declaration of Independence; it was broken on the passage, and re-cast at Philadelphia in 1753. The following prophetic inscription was selected by the authorities:--"Proclaim liberty throughout the land; unto the inhabitants thereof."

      Not far from the City Hall is the house of William Penn, and, in an opposite direction, the Franklin Library, which at the time of my visit contained 80,000 volumes. At the latter place I saw a clock 200 years old, said to have been used by Oliver Cromwell. It was in excellent order, and kept good time. The names of Franklin, Washington, and Penn are more frequently seen than any others that have figured prominently in the history of the United States.

      The market, as at Baltimore, is a very large one, and immense quantities of all kinds of produce are brought in from the surrounding country for consumption and shipment. [224]

      I visited the Fairmount Waterworks, on the Schulkil River. The water for the supply of the city was raised to a reservoir on the top of Fairmount by means of four large water-wheels. The grounds in the vicinity were tastefully laid out, and marble fountains played here and there among the trees. It was a delightful and refreshing place of recreation in the warm weather.

      At Philadelphia I made the acquaintance of Elder J. Challon, and was hospitably entertained by him while there. It was evident that he was doing a good work, not only in the Church, but by the publications he was sending forth from the press. On the Lord's-day I attended the Church and Sunday-school of the Disciples, who had here a neat and commodious place of worship. The form of service has already been described. All these Churches observe the Lord's Supper on each Lord's-day, either in the morning or afternoon. On this occasion, after the Elder present had given thanks for the bread and the wine, they were passed from one person to another till all had partaken of them. The singing in the American churches was lively and pleasing. It was an art that most had acquired while young, and in several of the churches and Sunday-schools the singing was by note.

      The Lord's-day was more strictly observed in Philadelphia than in any other city in the States, and omnibuses were not allowed to run. From what I saw and was told, I certainly preferred it to any city I had seen. There seemed to be more stability here, and the people appeared to live in a more rational way than in New York and other "go-ahead" cities, as they may be called.

      On August 22 I started by steamer for New York. Going down the river and across the bay, we passed a number of small vessels loaded with fruit and produce. It was a lovely day. Towards evening we called at Cape May, a favorite watering-place, and landed several passengers. Soon after leaving, the wind blew strongly, increasing till midnight, when we were so tossed about as to cause the machinery to shake and the vessel to quiver as each wave struck her. This steamer was not a sea-going craft, and was not intended for such rough treatment as she experienced on this occasion. It was not a very pleasant sensation to feel the deck-planking moving under our feet as she ploughed her way through the troubled waters. The scene at one time was singularly wild and interesting. The stars were shining overhead; lightning faintly flashed; the waves were lit up by phosphorescent fire; vessels' lights appeared and disappeared; and our furnace sent up a vari-colored flame above the top of the funnel. Next morning we got safely into New York. Before we reached the [225] wharf, a man stood watching narrowly each face, and at last, thinking he had caught someone's eye, he enquired, "Do you want a coach?" Proceeding up Broadway, I met one of my former travelling companions, whom I had left sick in this city. He had recovered (as had most of the others), and had travelled as far as St. Louis, which he described as a beautiful city, having as fine buildings, particularly churches, as almost any place in the States.

      I had now seen sufficient of this country and people to convince me that the general character of both had not been over-rated. Nature has furnished everything on the largest scale--immense mountains, prairies, lakes, and rivers; and science was endeavoring to traverse these by the aid of steam from the Atlantic nearly to the Arctic regions, and again to the shores of the Pacific. The arteries of life were penetrating the country in every direction, and commerce followed to supply its wants. Business appeared to be the all-absorbing thought of the mass of the people, and its pursuit was followed with an almost incredible activity. Politics and pleasure steal a portion of time, which has to be made up after by redoubled energy. These people were truly a "fast" people--they lived fast, and there could not be much doubt but that this fast living would augment fast dying. More time was generally consumed in smoking than in eating and drinking; and although the terms "fix" and "fixing" were applied to most things, few were very firm. At the time of my visit there was a great political movement--the native Americans being alarmed at the increase of foreign influence, and fearing that their liberal franchise would operate against themselves by too many Roman Catholics getting into office. To prevent this, a league, or secret society, was formed, the members of which were designated "Know nothings." The object of this society was to use all its influence to get and keep foreigners out of office, and place in none but native Americans. It was not surprising that foreign influence should be dreaded, when the number that annually emigrated to the States was taken into consideration. No less a number than 5,500 had arrived at New York alone in a single day, April 21, 1854.

      Although there are vast numbers of Churches, and professors of Christianity, there cannot be a doubt but that scepticism and infidelity have made considerable progress throughout the land. The United States have provided suitable soil for a rank growth of religious weeds, if I may use the term. Roman Catholicism, Mormonism, and Spiritism have spread more widely and with greater rapidity there than elsewhere. The latter, especially had [226] made wonderful progress, and in walking up Broadway I was surprised to see notices put up on every few doors, announcing the hours for "mediums" and "manifestations." The leaders of this movement claim not only thousands, but millions of adherents. I believe the system to be one of the greatest delusions of the last days; but whilst calling it a delusion, I am fully persuaded that its dupes are permitted to hold intercourse with demons and with the spirits of many of the departed. It may, therefore, be classed, I think, among the "strong delusions" mentioned in the Scriptures and condemned by them.

      My rambles in America being concluded, I had seriously to consider the question of ways and means as regarded reaching England. Very few dollars were left, and I thought there was scarcely sufficient to pay my passage. To travel by any of the expensive lines was an impossibility, and I therefore made enquiry as to the cheapest. I found that I could get a steerage passage in a Bremen steamer of 3,000 tons for 35 dollars, finding my own bedding and all necessary utensils for meals, etc. Bedding was out of the question, and omitting this item, I decided to procure two or three articles that were absolutely necessary. Not liking to land at Southampton without sufficient to pay my fare to London, I borrowed a sovereign from the Scotch gentleman who had been my fellow-traveller and companion from Sydney to New York. On reaching England I returned the loan, with thanks; and in a letter to me from Edinburgh, he made the following mention of his travels. He said:--"I find I have been following an "ignus fatuus--looking for happiness in far distant climes, when the materials could be found in my own breast, if I would only look for them. A properly-constituted mind, and an object worth attaining after, I have no doubt are greater sources of happiness than the greatest luxuries of this world. I think," he added, "you are following a path which will lead to honor here and glory hereafter." Referring to my departure from New York, he said:--"I saw you on board the Hansa, leaving the wharf at New York (although unseen by you). You were then discussing an apple, or an orange, with seeming delight, all your cares for the time having left you." The fact was, I had no cares; and as I had no friends or relations to part from, I was a spectator of the busy scene of leave-taking on the part of others--alone, yet not alone.

      As we proceeded down the harbor, on August 25, the bell rang for dinner, and I was curious to see how we were to fare in this Bremen steamer. There was first some soup, one of the ingredients of which I found to be prunes; and I took into [227] serious consideration the advisability, on going to sea, of venturing on this seemingly queer mixture. However, mustering up courage, I partook, and did not suffer any ill effects. My berth was amidships, and on hearing the splash of the huge paddlewheels, I imagined that sleeping would be a difficult matter; but my fears were groundless, and when I laid down on the hard boards I soon fell into a sound sleep. Having walked about New York in the morning, I felt rather tired, and was well prepared for slumber; and the sea air, no doubt, added to my drowsiness. Strange to say, the noise of the revolving wheels seemed to add to the inducement to sleep, rather than otherwise. When they ceased to perform their functions, on the night of our arrival at Southampton, I at once awoke. I had a similar experience in a screw steamer, which stopped during a fog in the night. We were favored with a fine-weather passage across the Atlantic; so fine, in fact, that an open boat could have pursued our course without shipping a sea. The only passenger whose acquaintance I made on the trip was a Frenchman who was returning to his native country. Though not an educated man, he was intelligent, and professedly belonged to the Roman Catholic Church. He believed in the being and existence of God, and on one occasion admitted that "man proposes, but God disposes," though at times I should have inferred, from his remarks, that he was an infidel. I apprehend that he was a typical representative of that monstrous system of error known as Roman Catholicism; and it is remarkable that in a majority of cases when persons sever their connection with "the Church," they become infidels. Mr. Woods, the author of the "Geography for Australian Youth," fully confirms this view, when he speaks of Italy as once the cradle of the faithful, but states that it has become "a nation of infidels." Who, it might be asked, had the teaching and training of the Italian people for centuries? and if they had been properly taught and trained, how did they so quickly become infidels on the Pope being deprived of his temporal power? The fact is, that when they lost faith in the Pope they lost faith in Popery, and looked upon it as a huge system of fraud and deception. I had several conversations with the Frenchman, and tried to point out to him a "more excellent way"; but he, on his part, assured me that his religion was a very nice one, adding "We go to Mass in the morning, to the boulevards in afternoon, and to the theatre in the evening!" Very nice religion, indeed! When parting from my friend at Southampton, I gave him a copy of the New Testament, which he promised me he would read. [228]

[CLACE 187-228]