ON Friday, September 7, 1554, after a pleasant voyage of fourteen days, a little after daylight I got a glimpse of the coast of Cornwall. A number of vessels were at the entrance of the English Channel, the greater number of which, were beating up against a contrary wind. Our experience was a practical illustration of the superiority that a steamer possesses, in the matter of speed, over a sailing vessel. While the latter were making very little progress, we kept steadily on our course, leaving one after another of them far behind. As the day advanced, the clouds which had obscured the land cleared away. When off the Eddystone Lighthouse, a fleet of fishing-boats, with their brown sails, stood out from the shore. About 3.30 in the afternoon we passed the entrance to Plymouth Harbor, and shortly after had a beautiful view of the coast of Devon. The hedges and walls enclosing the cultivated parts, bordering on the Channel could distinctly be seen. The harvest having been gathered in, the hills generally looked bare, but green patches of meadow and pasture land were to be seen here and there. Hills and dales, with cottages, mansions, and villages, lent additional charm to these first glimpses of the home-land; and the scene on the water was equally picturesque. White sails were everywhere visible, graceful alike on the tiny skiff and the full-rigged clipper. Some of the latter were going down Channel with a fair wind, to brave the dangers of the ocean--fit emblems of many on board, who, setting out on the journey of life with bright prospects, would ere long, perchance, meet with adverse winds and storms. Those beating against the wind were conveying many weary voyagers who looked forward hopefully to meeting those whom they loved. In the evening [229] with a bright moon shining upon us, we came abreast of the Needles, when two guns were fired for a pilot, who came on board in about two hours' time. We then steamed on to Cowes, and changed our pilot for another who took us on towards Southampton. A lighthouse here and there, or the aspect of the white cliffs by moonlight, attracted the attention of passengers who were more disposed for sight-seeing than sleeping.

      Early on the morning of September 8 we came to anchor about two miles from the Custom House at Southampton, and, after the firing of a gun, an official came on board. I landed in the pilot-boat, and was pulled up by a Customs officer for an examination of my luggage. I had very little to be examined, and escaped by paying 1s. 6d. I was struck on landing with the neatness and cleanliness of the town, and with the healthy and robust appearance of the people--a contrast, indeed, to the thin and sallow look of so many in the United States.

      It was nearly sixteen years since I had passed through Southampton, and in that space of time great improvements had been effected especially in the vicinity of the railway station. I had some difficulty in finding the Post Office, and was surprised that it was such a small and unpretentious building, considering the immense quantity of mail matter that passed through here on its way to India and Australia. In the main street I observed a pompous preparation for conveying the dead body of a person to its last resting-place. The hearse and the horses attached to it were disfigured with huge plumes, and by the side were the hired attendants, with a large display of black on their hats and upon the poles which they carried. Unaccustomed as I had been to sights of this kind in South Australia, the whole affair, instead of producing anything like a solemn feeling in my mind, appeared really ludicrous. The display of large signboards, in blue and gold, with the names of the different brewers, presented a conspicuous object to the eye; and the notices on the beer-shops, "Not to be drunk on the premises," likewise attracted my attention. Gin-palaces and ordinary "pubs." were also to be observed; and all these outward manifestations seemed to me to indicate that, in contrast with those of the United States, the people of England were larger consumers of beer and spirits.

      After a stroll through the town, I found my way to the railway station, and was surprised to see so many officials in attendance, when compared with the smaller number employed by the railway companies in the States. I noticed that the carriages were quite different, and instead of being able to pass [230] right through the train from end to end, each compartment was complete in itself. Instead of one class only, here there were first-, second-, and third-class carriages; and the last-named just suited my limited means.

      After paying the fare and taking my seat, I was agreeably surprised to find the other occupants well-dressed and evidently respectable persons, and felicitated myself upon being in such good company. As we sped along, evidences that the wheat harvest had been gathered in were to be seen in the well-built stacks and the short stubble left in the fields. There were no signs of reaping-machines or strippers here, for the simple reason that they will not work well in such a moist atmosphere; and the straw was considered by farmers too valuable to be burnt.

      As we proceeded, I began to feel proud of my native country as I saw the nicely-trimmed, green hedges, enclosing fields and meadows of varied hues. Here and there, in pleasant and retired spots, I observed the houses of the wealthy, with shrubberies and lawns tastefully laid out; send, in other place", the neat cottages of farmers and peasants, with pretty gardens of flowers, fruit, and vegetables. In these latter, though there may have been an absence of wealth, there was an air of comfort and cleanliness, and an evident desire to make the best of everything. The train passed through a great variety of country-over hills, meadows, and streams, and through towns and villages. As it drew near to London, the extensive brickyards, and the number of buildings in course of erection, seemed to indicate an intention to occupy all the vacant land for miles around the metropolis.

      The first peep at London from this train showed the traveller the attic windows and upper stories of the houses, the line from Vauxhall to Waterloo being nearly on a level with the tops of the dwellings. At Waterloo Station there was a great number of cabs and hackney-coaches awaiting our arrival; and "cabby" began his usual tactics with me, as he generally does with the simple and unsuspecting. One of them took the liberty of placing my small lot of luggage on the outside of his vehicle, while there was plenty of space inside; and for this act of consideration on his part, I found I had to pay extra. Giving him the address of my cousin, at Holborn, he soon made his way through the busy thoroughfares to that place, and I had the pleasure of seeing my relative again after an interval of several years. My cousin had become quite anxious owing to my non-arrival, and as cholera had been raging in America, he feared that I had fallen a victim to it, and actually thought of writing to my mother on the morrow [231] to communicate his fears. So soon as he could leave his business, I was driven to his private residence at Holford Square, where I was welcomed and found a comfortable home. That night I retired to rest with a truly thankful heart to Him who had brought me thus far, through dangers seen and unseen, without a single day's illness (save for a little sea-sickness) all the way through.

      After a good night's rest I started for a walk through the great city, with the intention of making my way from Holford Square to Threadneedle Street. One thing I discovered in my new quarters, namely, that my liberty was somewhat curtailed; and that I was not to be allowed to go out with dirty boots, or clothes unbrushed. My aunt constituted herself inspector-general in these matters, and for the sake of peace submission was made, though, it is to be feared, with a bad grace. I had seen my cousin go forth without a speck-hat, gloves, and walking-stick as if he had just come out of a band-box; and it appeared that I must conform to certain rules which were considered right and proper. This did not strike me as "quite Colonial," but I was neither in Australia nor America; hence, while "in Rome," I had to "do as Rome did." I also found that while in London I was not alone inspected by my aunt, but by the shoeblacks in the street; and should a journey be undertaken without shining shoes, there was no escaping the keen observation of the Shoe-black Brigade, who saluted me at every turn with "Clean your boots, sir?" Having furnished myself with the names of the streets to be traversed, I experienced no difficulty in finding the place I wanted. The thousands of people who thronged the thoroughfares, and the wonderful display of goods in the shop-windows for miles and miles, gave some, idea of the vastness of England's chief emporium. The long arrays of offices to be seen in the narrow streets, courts, and alleys, provided abundant food for reflection as to the business transacted in them, amounting daily in the aggregate to tens of thousands, if not hundreds of thousands, of pounds. The wives and families of the gentlemen occupying these dingey offices might be seen being driven through the streets in their beautiful equipages, and attended by footmen in livery.

      And then to see their stately mansions! I had an opportunity of contrasting the handsome suburban residence of a relative of my own with his office in one of the queer places in the city; and this was only one of thousands of similar cases. Having seen a little of London I instituted a comparison between it and the cities I had seen in the New World. Instead [232] of the bright red brick, light freestone, and massive marble of the States, here the stone and stucco was uniformly darkened by age or discolored with smoke. It appeared to me that London, i. e., the City proper, sadly needed whitewashing, or something that would brighten it up a little. Of course its age, extent, wealth, and importance are calculated to inspire a degree of veneration; and perhaps I ought to feel proud that I was by birth "a citizen of no mean city." One side alone of the picture that London presents has been glanced at, viz., its merchant princes and its wealth; on the other, there is as great a proportion of poverty and misery as could well be found in almost any part of the world. While there is an awful amount of vice and depravity in London, there are large numbers of out-and-out Christians and Christian workers, who are doing all in their power to let their light shine and dispel the darkness. I was glad to exchange the noise of the City for the quiet of the Square, where only the strains of a barrel-organ, or the laughter of children, met the ear.

      On Lord's-day, September 10, I went with my relatives to Claremont Chapel, and attended the morning session of the Sunday-school. The school assembled in a large room at the back of the chapel, and this room was divided into two compartments--one for the boys and one for the girls--by means of a wooden partition about three feet high, above which was a curtain on rollers. During the devotional exercises at the commencement and close of the school the curtains were rolled up, and when the teaching began they were let down at a given signal. The teachers' seats consisted of a small chest, on feet, in which were deposited books, etc., the lid forming the seat when the chest was closed. I was invited to take a class; and, complying, found the boys fairly instructed in the Scriptures. After the school I attended the service in the chapel, a neat and commodious building with upper and lower galleries. The pastor (Rev. J. Blackburn) conducted the service, which appeared to me rather long. In the afternoon I again attended the Sunday-school, by invitation of the superintendent; and was favorably impressed with the discipline and order maintained. In the evening my cousin took me to the Church of England service in Regent Square, and I heard again the Liturgy I had been so familiar with; but which had now lost its charms for me.

      After spending a few days in London, mostly devoted to writing to relatives and friends, I thought I had better begin my provincial tour before colder weather set in. Accordingly, on September 15, I booked at Euston Square Railway Station for [233] Blisworth, en route to Towcester and Greens Norton. The sun shone brightly, and the scenery along the line was charming after the few days spent in smoky, dusky London. A passenger by the train afforded us some amusement by his frequent enquiries after Thring, the station at which he wanted to alight. At each station he cried out, "Have we come to Thring?" or, "Is this Thring?" until at last he was set down at the right place. I noticed that the porters had a bad habit of mis-pronouncing, or of not clearly announcing, the names of the stations, making it very difficult for passengers really to know where they were. I was by no means apprehensive of being taken beyond Blisworth without my knowledge, as the train had to wait there an hour and a half for an express to pass.

      Ample accommodation was provided for this delay, not only in the supply of refreshments, but there were beautiful gardens and shrubberies where the passengers might pleasantly enjoy the long interval. Leaving the train, I started at a brisk pace along the road leading to Towcester; only stopping now and again to gather a few blackberries that were growing plentifully by the roadside. After a walk of three or four miles I came to a lodge, and a high wall surrounding Pomfret House, the country seat of the Earl of Pomfret. Having known the place well when a boy, and been here several times, I felt that I was at home again; not my home, but near to my former home. On the opposite side of the road was a green meadow, shaded by some stately trees, where I had often played, and gathered violets and buttercups and daisies. It only needed the spiteful old ram, which was wont to chase me, to complete the realism of my boyhood days. Crossing the bridge over the sluggish Tow, everything appeared as when I last passed over it; but oh; what changes there had been in me, what developments in my career, since then! A few minutes more, and I was in the town of Towcester, and here I at once saw that great alterations had been effected. The old stocks--which if still standing would have first met my gaze--had been removed, and in their place appeared a new police station; a neat new chapel had also been erected, and new houses occupied the places of some old ones that had been pulled down. All, however, was not new; and I found afterwards that the other part of the town was much the same as I remembered it.

      Not intending to stay at Towcester just then, I passed out by the road leading to Greens Norton; and though there were several turns, I determined to find my way by the recollections I had of certain landmarks. The lofty church-spire at length came [234] in sight, which convinced me that I way on the right track, and had not far to go; of this I was glad, as the walk had been rather fatiguing. Passing the old church, and the churchyard where many members of my mother's family were interred, I was soon in the village. To me the place seemed lonely, and almost deserted; but this was its normal condition, the only time when there was anything approaching stir and bustle being the annual recurrence of the village fair. I knew that the advent of a stranger would set the inhabitants on the qui vive, and that all kinds of guesses would be hazarded as to his identity, and the purpose of his intrusion upon their quiet retreat. The telephone had not been invented, but without such modern scientific aid the news would go from house to house with winged feet. Regardless of consequences, I ventured right through the village alone--not quite unobserved--till I reached my uncle's residence at the far end; and here I halted and took a survey of the exterior before entering.

      First, there was a wall sufficiently high to hide the garden from public gaze; but when the gate was opened the beauty of the place was manifest at a glance. The gravel walks and lawns, and the hedges of box and laurel dividing the flower garden from the fruit garden, were all trimly-kept. Openings in the hedges led into the various departments of floriculture and horticulture. It seemed that there was a place for everything, and that everything was in its proper place. The house was two-storied, and the masonry was nearly covered with trees trained up the walls. In the front the flowers of a rich damask rose peeped in at the windows; at the end was a nectarine, its fruit tied up in little bags to protect it from the wasps; and, at the back, a pear-tree. A jessamine entwined the pillars of the porch, and lovely creepers of many kinds were carefully trained. Beyond the homestead was the farmyard, stables, barns, etc., and still further on, the meadows and fields. My uncle was a widower, without family, his wife having been dead for several years. When living, having no children to engage her attention, my aunt took a pride in the garden, made preserves and wines of various kinds, the excellence of which I could very well remember. My uncle took as much pride in his farm as his wife had done in the other departments; consequently the whole estate was well-managed, and strikingly contrasted with many that I had seen in Australia and America.

      My uncle gave me a cordial welcome, and I was pleased to see him again; though I observed that age and grief had made their mark upon his features. The loss of his dear wife had been [235] to him an irreparable loss, which nothing on earth could supply; and the beautiful garden in which she had taken such pleasure reminded him continually of her. We chatted away, with very few intervals, till nearly 9 o'clock; and then my uncle, who retired early to rest, conducted me upstairs to my bedroom. On a landing I noticed the old clock in its massive case, which still told of passing time, but not of passing events. It had probably stood there for more than half a century, faithfully telling its daily story; and beside it was a full-length portrait of one who had passed out of time into eternity. I took a survey of my bed, which appeared to need bedsteps to get on or into; and when I had succeeded in getting in, a difficulty presented itself as to how to get out. I sank down into such a feathery nest as I had not had for many years, and it presented a striking contrast to the time when I had to lie on hard boards, without any bedding at all. Such is life: we have to take the rough with the smooth, the sorrows with the joys, the pains with the pleasures; and taking it altogether we find that there is far more of a compensating medium than we have any idea of when taking the several parts separately.

      I slept that night without being smothered, and after a good night's rest was awakened by the church bell at 6 o'clock. The morning was occupied with writing, and after dinner I walked to Towcester, finding my way without difficulty. I called upon the lady whose son was almost my only companion when a boy; and was pleased to hear that he was still alive, as I had an idea that he was dead and gone. His mother said that he would be home shortly, and it was arranged that she should not tell him whom I was, but see whether we recognised each other. When we met we were complete strangers; but soon renewed our mutual friendship. My old companion's mother had the most affectionate remembrance of my mother, and said she would give anything to see her again and enjoy her company, if only for a few hours. After spending some time talking about old friends and former times, I walked back to Norton much pleased at the revival of acquaintance with those I had known, loved, and respected long ago.

      On Lord's-day, September 17, my uncle was surprised to find that I intended to go to Towcester, instead of with him to the Parish Church. The fact was that I wanted to know something about the occupants of the new chapel I had seen on entering the town, of whom I had heard some strange things. I arrived in time for the Sunday-school, and consented, when asked, to take a [236] class. Afterwards, on making enquiry as to what denomination the friends worshipping there belonged, I was informed that they had no distinctive name, beyond that of "Christians"; and that there were four or five congregations in different parts of England that worshipped as they did. I was further informed that they took the Scriptures solely as their rule of faith and practice; and I began to feel in good company. I was introduced to Mr. Sheppard, the pastor of the Church; and we had a little talk together before the service. At the back of the chapel there was a small, neat garden, with gravel walks. The interior of the building was as neat as its exterior; it was fitted up with open seats, and a pulpit stood at the further end, in front of which was a baptistry. There was a good congregation, and the pastor delivered an excellent address from Acts xviii. 10, in the course of which he instituted some truthful comparisons between the manner in which the Apostles carried on their work, and the plans pursued by modern preachers of the Gospel. I was pleased with the service, and had a desire to know more about this "strange sect," as it was called by those who knew little of it.

      I walked back to my uncle's to dinner, and went with him in the afternoon to the Parish Church, where, to my surprise, the clerk claimed me as his godson. As we had been separated for so many years, he had had no opportunity to instruct me in the way that I should go; and now we were so widely separated in our religious views that there was no prospect of his bringing me back to the old paths. In the eyes of the Church, I was now a heretic, if not a schismatic; and it might be said that I had neglected that part of the Litany which says, "From all false doctrine, heresy, and schism, Good Lord, deliver us." I did not feel particularly edified by the service which had just ended, but was thankful for my deliverance from many of the errors taught in the Church, and from some of its unscriptural practices.

      In the evening I read the Scriptures to my uncle, and conversed with him on the subject of personal religion. He said that he did not see things exactly from my standpoint, but was not disposed to question my assertions; and concluded by hoping we were both right. It afterwards transpired that there had been another listener to our conversation, in the person of the servant, who sought to gain all the information she could through the keyhole, not only for her own satisfaction, but to gratify the curiosity of the villagers. These people were aware that I came from "'Stralia and 'Merica," but whether I were a Mormon, Shaker, Quaker, or what else, they really desired to determine. [237] An opportunity was shortly afforded me to let them know who and what I was.

      On Monday, September 18, I took leave of my uncle, promising him a more extended visit later on. Walking to Blisworth I went thence by rail to Northampton, to visit an aunt who resided in a suburb of that town. I was not much enamored with the town; the streets were too narrow, and the houses of too ancient a style to please me. Though I had read "The Antiquary," by Walter Scott, and had heard and read of many antiquities, I cared little about them, excepting such as threw light on the Scriptures. My aunt was pleased to see me, and expressed a wish to return to Australia with me, provided that the necessary arrangements could be made. I remained at her house for the night, and next morning returned to London.

      On Thursday, September 21, I took another trip into the country by train, my destination being Farnham. The object of my visit was to inform a young lady, who was residing at the Rectory, as to why I could not deliver a precious parcel entrusted to my care by her aunt, the wife of the missionary at Tahiti. The story of my loss at the Isthmus of Panama was attentively listened to, and I feel sure that it excited the sympathy of the lady, and the wife of the rector (who was present). It was quite out of my power to hand over what had been entrusted to me, but I made what amends I could from a pecuniary point of view, which was accepted with thanks. This was a hop country, and I saw some of the crops, which, as the season had been unfavorable, did not look very flourishing. I took tea at the Rectory and after that took my departure for London, reaching my home at Holford Square about 10 o'clock.

      On Friday, September 22, I made a start for the Shoreditch Station, to go by train to Helveden; but I started too late, and was only in time to see the train leave the station. This was rather annoying, as the friend I was going to visit had arranged to send his carriage to meet me on arrival of the train. However, as there was another train later on, I took good care to be in time for that, and found that my friend had kindly ordered another conveyance to take me to his residence at Coggeshall. My friend--who was not only a friend, indeed, but a Friend by profession--had been in business in Adelaide, in the early days, for several years, but had retired, and was residing among other Friends related to him in a pretty country place in Essex. He gave me a hearty welcome, and we had a lot of people and things to talk about concerning matters at the other end of the world. My friend [238] was occupying an old family residence, and the surroundings, like those of my uncle's house at Norton, gave evidence of many years of cultivation and training. On the lawn in front of the drawing-room was a stately cedar of Lebanon, the finest I have seen; flower beds and shrubberies were in beautiful order; and at the farther end stood a hothouse, with a grape vine climbing up the sides and roof. A pineapple tree near the centre of the garden was pointed out to me as having been planted by my friend's mother, who was then about 80 years of age.

      During my stay I enjoyed several drives along the roads and lanes, with well-kept hedges on both sides--a characteristic of the best-cultivated parts of Old England. Instead of the constant change that is taking place in America and Australia, this old country inspires an idea of settlement and stability, as if the people intended to remain where they were during the term of their natural lives. I was introduced to a brother of my friend, who, I found, was a leading man among the Quakers. He gave me a goodly-sized volume, containing the " Doctrines of the Friends," but these doctrines did not commend themselves to me as the doctrines of the Apostles of Jesus Christ. I also on two occasions attended the Friends' Meeting-house, and was sorry that, at both times, all was silent; not a hymn was sung, a prayer audibly uttered; a verse of Scripture read, nor a word said, during the whole time, which was about an hour and a-half. When the leaders on the platform rose, all the people followed suit, and then there was hand-shaking, and talking sufficient to quite make up for the protracted silence. To me the meeting had been painful, and I had felt inclined to go to sleep; but the people who are accustomed to these silent services find them times for profitable meditation; it being understood that the Holy Spirit prompts to speech or otherwise, and that the minds of the worshippers are in subjection to Him.

      On Friday, September 29, I bade my kind friends good-by, and proceeded to Bury St. Edmunds, to visit an old friend of my mother's who resided near there. I found the place, but as a party of ladies and gentlemen were gathered there, enjoying the evening on the lawn, I did not stay, but, having delivered my mother's message to her friend, retired to a wayside inn for the night. The gentleman I visited told me that he had one or two sons in Australia, but he did not know exactly where they were.

      Next morning I walked to Bury, which is a quaint old town abounding with flint, which appeared to be very extensively used [239] for walls of buildings, and would certainly be durable. From this place the railway conveyed me, via Cambridge, to Peterborough; but the weather was so thick and foggy that very little was to be seen of the places en route. I next took train for Nottingham, arriving there at about 5 o'clock. I went to the residence of Elder J. Wallis, who received me kindly, and invited me to make his house my home during my stay there. Mr. Wallis was editor of the British Millennial Harbinger, and I found that he was not only well known and respected by the members of the Church over which he presided, but by his fellow-townsmen. Here I found that there was a lot of work cut out for me in the way of writing, preaching, and lecturing, which I was very pleased to do. Mrs. Wallis and her daughter were most attentive to my wants, and I found that I had come to another "Bethany." On the night of my arrival there was so much to talk about that I did not retire to rest till about 11 o'clock; but the conversation about Australia, America, etc., did not crowd out the family worship, which was a real spiritual feast. Truly I did go to rest that night with a grateful heart.

      On Lord's-day, October 1, after family worship, I went with Elder Wallis to the meeting-house at Barker Gate. This was a commodious building, with a gallery at the entrance, and at the farther end the Communion-table and baptistry. The arrangement for baptisms here was different to any I had seen, the person officiating standing at the back of the baptistry, without having to go into the water at all. There were vestries on each side to accommodate males or females, as the case might be; and at the same time the congregation had a good view of those baptised. At the service Elder Wallis presided, the other elders and deacons occupying seats near the Communion-table. As I was expected to give an address, I was honored with a seat beside the presiding elder; and after an introduction to the congregation, I gave testimony to the goodness of the Lord in bringing me through many dangers with a goodly measure of health and strength. I also stated that it was my intention to serve the Lord with all my powers, according as He might give me ability and opportunity. I spoke of the grand work that England had done in providing the Scriptures for all who desired to read them, and the responsibility that was involved in this provision in leading Christians to conform to the teaching and practice of the Apostles and early Christians. After my address and the usual devotional exercises the Lord's Supper was attended to, and the meeting was brought to a close. [240] I accepted an invitation to dine with Elder Hynde, a venerable and affectionate old gentleman, who had for many years been treasurer of the Church at Nottingham. He had long since retired from business, and was living in ease and comfort in a large house with his widowed daughter, retaining a sufficient number of servants to minister to their wants. Mr. Hynde was really a fine type of an old English Christian gentleman, who took pleasure, with his ample means, in ministering to the wants of the poor.

      At the morning service, it was announced that I would give an address to the Sunday-school in the afternoon; and having much of an interesting character to tell teachers and scholars, I succeeded in keeping the attention of all for some time. Having been for several years engaged in Sunday-school work, and still taking great interest in it, I always felt at home in taking any part in such work. It is now more than half a century since I entered upon this sphere of labor in Adelaide, and I still have a warm place for it in my heart.

      In the evening I gave a Gospel address in the chapel to a large congregation, referring more particularly to the privileges the people enjoyed in England compared with those who are yet in heathen darkness, surrounded with influences prejudicial to the reception o£ the truth. Strange to say--but nevertheless true--the opposition met with in England in the way of many arose, not from heathen superstition and prejudice, but from an ecclesiastical organisation claiming to have a kind of pre-emptive right to teach and preach the doctrines set forth in its Articles and Formularies, which were established and maintained by Act of Parliament. All who were outside of this powerful and influential organisation were treated as "heretics," and were subject to many disabilities.

      At the close of the day I felt that I had been enabled, with Divine help, to do a good day's work; and was glad to avail myself of a good night's rest. On the morrow I went with a party of friends to see Martin's celebrated pictures, "The Day of His Wrath," "The Day of Judgment," and "The Plains of Heaven." These were indeed wonderful works of imagination, and required some considerable time to fully comprehend the idea and design of the artist. In going and returning we had to pass through the fair, which was being held at this time; this was to me somewhat of a novelty as I had not seen one for many years. The variety of shows, from the imposing menagerie to the humble Punch-and-Judy; the stalls, exhibiting for sale articles of all [241] kinds; and the dense crowd of people, combined to produce a tremendous excitement, which was intensified by the arrival in Nottingham, while the fair was in full swing, of the news of the fall of Sebastopol; and then, what with the firing of cannon, the ringing of bells, the music of brass and other bands, and the shouts of the populace, my ears were in danger of suffering seriously. However, a return to the quiet parlor, placed at my disposal by my kind hostess, restored my nerves to their normal condition. I had calculated in this room to be able to write from morning till night, but had reckoned without my host, or hostess. The latter considered it injurious to my health to sit so closely at writing, and that I ought to go and see some of the sights. Of course I had to submit with as good a grace as possible, feeling sure that kindness had prompted the advice. One day Miss Wallis came in and said she would put a stop to my writing; at the same time handing me a budget of letters, etc., from Australia. The fact is, I had at this time an extensive correspondence with persons in England, America, and Australia; in addition to what I had undertaken to write for the pages of the Harbinger.

      Next day I was taken by my hostess and her daughter to the Arboretum, the cemetery, and the waterworks; and in these places I found congenial retreat from the noise and bustle of the fair. The Arboretum appeared to be a delightful place for the resort and recreation of the townspeople, provided with lawns, flower-beds, and a sheet of water in the lower part. On the most elevated point of the grounds stood a large glass house, which was used occasionally for tea parties. The cemetery was nicely laid out and well kept, and abounded with flowers and shrubs. The reservoir was situated on an elevated plateau, commanding a fine view of the town of Sherwood Forest and the surrounding country.

      On Wednesday, October 4, after further rambles during the day, I attended the meeting at the chapel in the evening, and took part in the service. I was pleased to find that the attractions of the fair had not prevented a number of Christians meeting for spiritual improvement.

      On Thursday morning, October 5, Mr. Wallis took me to see the manufactory belonging to one of his sons, where marvellous work was being accomplished. I saw the steam-engine, which set a number of looms in rapid motion; I saw many needles moving backward and forward, this way and that way; and then I saw socks, stockings, and shirts rapidly assuming their several shapes: the whole process, however, was a mystery to me, [242] and I just had to conclude that all was going on right. Is it not so with the affairs of this life? We see certain results, and do not concern ourselves as to how they are brought about; but if we believe that they are all under the guidance of our Father in heaven, we may feel assured that they will all come out right at last. We shall then be able to say, "He led me by a way that I knew not."

      In the afternoon of this day my friend took me for a drive to Clifton Grove, the favorite resort of Henry Kirke White, the poet. This was a delightfully cool and pleasant retreat along the banks of the Trent, and as I was at one time a great admirer of the poems of this somewhat sombre author, I felt an additional interest in visiting his favorite resort. I was at one time rather inclined to melancholia, and I found that Kirke White's poetry fostered this feeling to such an extent that I had to deny myself a perusal of his works.

      On Lord's-day, October 8, I attended the morning session of the Sunday-school, and afterwards the meeting of the Church, at which I gave an address on the resurrection of Christ and the blessedness of having risen with Him to newness of life. Before the service a brother and a sister were immersed, upon a confession of their faith, and afterwards received into fellowship. On the way to Dr. Darby's to dinner, I was taken to see a blind Christian, who was able to read the Bible for the blind as well as for those of us who could see. This was the first case of the kind I had witnessed, and it afforded me much pleasure and satisfaction. I attended the Sunday-school in the afternoon, and in the evening gave an address in the chapel, specially urging the importance of making the Sunday-school a nursery for the Church. Thus ended another day's work for the Master and for His people.

      On Monday, October 9, I paid a short visit to Derby to see a lady who had been in Adelaide, and had resided at my mother's. She appeared to have had enough of colonial life, and intended to spend the remainder of her days in Old England. Derby appeared to me to be rather a dingey place, with narrow streets and old-fashioned buildings. The day being cloudy probably made it look more sombre than if the sun had been shining brightly; but, being situated in the "black country," the smoke had something to do with its dark appearance. The railway station is very large, several lines converging at this point. I returned to Nottingham the same evening, and, intending to leave on Wednesday, I made preparations on the following day [243] for my departure. I was pressed to prolong my stay; but as I could not comply, I promised my kind friends another visit later on (D.V.).

      On Wednesday, October 12, I took train for Leicester, and thence to Northampton, to ascertain whether my aunt really intended to accompany me on my return to Australia. I paid another visit to my uncle at Greens Norton, and also to my friends at Towcester, and then returned to London. By this time autumn was perceptibly advanced, and the leaves were assuming their variegated hues before finally falling from the trees. While in the country I had already experienced two or three sharp frosts. The changes in the season were not so noticeable in London as in the country parts, but the shortening of the days, and the increasing density of the clouds, indicated that winter was at hand.

      On Lord's-day, October 15, I walked to Camden Town, and attended the meeting of the Church assembling in the lecture-room of Gloucester House. Having presented my letters of introduction I was asked to give an address, which I consented to do. At the house of one of the brethren who had invited me to dinner, the afternoon was spent in conversing on topics connected with Christianity, and especially on the state of religion in America and Australia. Here I met with a brother, a farmer from Wiltshire, who was desirous that his son should go out with me to Australia; and I furnished him with a great deal of information which he required. This subsequently led to my paying a visit to his country residence, when arrangements regarding the young man's voyage with me were made. In the evening I gave a Gospel address at Camden Town, and then walked home to Holford Square, a journey of several miles; but as the weather was cold I did not feel the walk fatiguing.

      The remainder of the week was mostly spent in writing, but I paid visits to the Docks, to the office of the London Missionary Society, and a few other places in the City.

      On Lord's-day, October 22, I attended the services of the Disciples, or Church of Christ, meeting at Hammersmith; and gave an address. Mr. Black, a son-in-law of Elder Wallis, invited me to dine with him at his residence at Knightsbridge, and the afternoon was spent in profitable conversation. In the evening I fully intended to go and hear the Hon. and Rev. Baptist Noel, but could not find out the place where he was conducting services. Before leaving Adelaide I had heard of his secession from the Church of England, and that he had been immersed. Being [244] anxious to possess a copy of his book setting forth the reasons for the step he had taken, I had ordered one from England; but it had not come to hand when I left Australia. I found that on taking leave of the Church in which he had ministered, Baptist Noel said "that his leaving appeared to be the plain call of God, by His Word, and by duty; and consequently it left him no liberty to choose." He remarked that "they had come to see a separation between a pastor and his flock; between a minister and his people, who had loved one another, and had long been united. Did they ask themselves why they were to be separated? There was but one answer. It was because there was such a thing as truth; because truth was supreme; because we owed to it an undivided homage and allegiance. It was because there was such a thing as conscience, which sat in judgment upon truth, and pronounced what we were to do in accordance with truth. This had produced a separation between those who had long loved one another and acted together." I felt that I could endorse every word uttered by this worthy man; and though I had not had the privilege of hearing or seeing him during my stay in England, his sentiments exactly accorded with my own. From the high and honorable position he had occupied, the separation in his case must have been a more painful one than mine.

      During the week I was mostly occupied with writing, but I had an opportunity of seeing the Times office in company with my cousin, who obtained an order for the purpose. The machinery employed for printing the "Thunderer," as it was called, was wonderful to me at that time; but there have been such vast improvements effected since, that what was then considered wonderful has now been cast into the shade. My cousin who accompanied me was himself a printer, in a large way of business, and a few years after this visit to the Times office, I believe he had an establishment as large as, if not larger than, it. He printed several newspapers, besides general printing; and when a destructive fire destroyed his plant, insured for £50,000, such was his business aptitude that in two or three days after the fire he had all in working order in other premises. Mention of this fact was made by the Times as an illustration of what could be accomplished in London by an enterprising printer.

      In travelling, it is remarkable how we meet with those whom we do not expect to meet; but when we go in search of them, it is seldom that they can be found. I had been in search of Mr. (afterwards the Hon.) P. Santo, who I knew was, like myself, on a visit to England; but he happened to be out when I called. [245] One day whilst waiting at the steamer-pier to go to Greenwich, I had the pleasure of meeting with my friend, and we entertained the hope that we might return to Adelaide by the same vessel; but our subsequent arrangements did not admit of carrying out this project. On the way down the Thames the forest of masts seemed endless, and a trip of this kind conveyed a good idea of the immensity of the trade and commerce of what some have designated "the modern Babylon." I visited Greenwich Hospital, and was much interested in the pensioners there, who had fought in many a battle, and gave evidence, by the loss of limbs, that they had been in the thick of the fight. The medals which they wore showed that the gallant services they had rendered had been duly recognised.

      On Saturday, October 28, my cousin accompanied me to the Crystal Palace, at Sydenham, where we saw a memorable sight. This was the day appointed for a grand military fete on behalf of the widows and orphans of those slain in the Crimean War with Russia. The Palace and its surroundings were very beautiful; but the musical performance on this occasion was, from a military point of view, very grand. The bands of music (forty in number) were the best that England, France, and Turkey could furnish--and those from France included the Emperor's own, consisting of about sixty performers. At one part of the day the whole of these bands played in concert, and at other times singly, or in groups. I had witnessed a sham fight in Hyde Park, to commemorate the Battle of Waterloo; but when the Life Guards came up in full gallop near to where I was standing, it made me shake with fear. It was surprising to see how quickly the cavalcade, which made the earth tremble, could be brought to a standstill. If this harmless affair seemed so terrible, what must be the awful realities of the battle-field? I have been told by those who have been engaged in warfare that the whole scene is so exciting that the actors in it do not realise the actual state of affairs in which they are taking part. Late in the afternoon my cousin and I attempted to leave the Palace, but it took between two and three hours for us to get through the barricades to the railway station, and about the same time to get a place in the train for London. There were between 30,00 and 40,000 people present on this occasion, and it was midnight before some could reach their homes.

      On Lord's-day, October 29, I attended the meeting of the Church at Camden Town, and during the week paid several visits to fulfil engagements, which necessitated my keeping later hours [246] than when in the country. I found that people in London are so accustomed to late hours that I did not get into trouble on this account, but as a rule they do not rise so early in London as people do in the country.

      On Saturday, November 4, I took the train to Andover to meet the friend who wanted to send his son under my care to Australia. From Andover we had a cold drive across Salisbury Plains to the farmhouse, where I met with a warm reception from Mr. Scott's large family, who were awaiting our return for family worship. The Lord's-day services were held in the large room at Mr. Scott's, and I took part in these services morning and evening, which were attended by others besides the members of his family. I found that the simple order of worship adopted by these Christians could be carried out in a family as well as in a large assembly. We read in the New Testament of Churches, or assemblies of Christians, being held in the houses of certain disciples; therefore the plan I mention may be considered Scriptural.

      While I was here a tea-meeting was held, and after this I was expected to give as much information as I could respecting South Australia for the benefit of any who might wish to emigrate thither. There were about forty present, and I was engaged for nearly three hours speaking and answering questions. It was about midnight when I retired to rest, so that I was keeping late hours in the country as well as in London. On my return to South Australia I received several letters from persons in England and America asking for information about South Australia. The answers to these, in addition to the correspondence with those whose acquaintance I had made in my travels, were rather a severe tax on my time, and I found it necessary to ease this work off by degrees.

      During my stay I was driven to see Old Sarum, Salisbury Cathedral, Stonehenge, and some other places of interest. The stone floor of the Cathedral felt very cold; and though there was much to admire from an architectural point of view, I did not feel that there was anything to warm my heart. The services of the Cathedral were, of course, infinitely superior to those of the ancient Britons at Stonehenge and Old Sarum, but they were too much of a mediæval character to please me.

      On Saturday, November 11, I returned to London, and on the following day attended the services of the Disciples, or Church of Christ, at Pimlico; giving an address on " The Heavenly Inheritance." In walking across Hyde Park I perceived that [247] there was quite a hard frost, the ground crackling under my feet. There was an amount of pleasure in a walk under such conditions; but when the thaw came, and the atmosphere was damp and cold, I would have rather preferred the at times too sunny south.

      After another week in London I took a trip into the country for a few days, to visit friends and give them information about South Australia. Though not an authorised agent of the Government of South Australia, I embraced every opportunity that offered to extend knowledge concerning the Colony, its climate, productions, and resources. During this trip I visited Chapple, Ipswich, Wickham Market, Tunstall, and Woodbridge. Part of this journey was by stage-coach, which, in England, reminded one of the olden days, and proved a pleasant change after travelling so much by rail. The weather, too, was now cold and frosty, another reminder that I was not in South Australia. While at the house of a friend in the country, a cask of Australian produce from Adelaide came to hand, and I had the pleasure of sowing a handful of wheat in England.

      While in England, I prepared a work on "The Australian Colonies," giving as much information as I could concerning them to the year 1854. The Australian and New Zealand Gazette, in a review of this work, said:--"We have in recent numbers made several extracts from this little book"; and of the writer it said, he "possesses good powers of observation, and, what is equally to the purpose, habits of condensation in describing what he has seen." I also received from England and America favorable notices of my little book. A lady engaged in tuition in New South Wales, found the volume not only useful, but interesting; and in a letter I have by me she says:--"I do not know how far the book Mr. Hussey has already given to the world has been of use to others; but I know it has been of great use to me: for I have used it as a text-book when giving my pupils a drilling in the geography of this, their native land--and they seem to appreciate it too, for 'Mr. Hussey's Book,' as they call it, is a favorite with them." This work was written, printed, and published during my stay in England; and from this fact it may be inferred that what with writing, travelling, preaching, and lecturing, I had very little time for sight-seeing. Saturday, December 2, found me again in London, and next day I attended the services of the Church at Camden Town. On this occasion I made the acquaintance of Mr. David King, an evangelist and an able lecturer on the evidences of the Christian religion. I had the pleasure of hearing him deliver a thoughtful [248] and suggestive address on "The Origin of Evil," which was a masterpiece of erudition and plausibility. In the afternoon I attended the Sunday-school, and Mr. King and I gave addresses to the teachers and scholars.

      On Lord's-day, December 10, I walked to Hammersmith and addressed the Church meeting at that place. Here I made the acquaintance of Mr. Kidner, who was afterwards a medical practitioner for many years in Adelaide. He was also a well-known preacher of the Gospel, and was much respected by those who knew him. In the evening I attended an interesting meeting at Mr. Kidner's house for the study of the Scriptures.

      On Tuesday, December 12, I went to St. James' Park to see the return of the Queen from the opening of Parliament. The line of procession was guarded on both sides by the Household troops, whose horses were so thoroughly under control that they would either stand like statues or dance about when the crowd pressed too closely. I had a good view of Her Majesty in her State carriage, which was nearly covered with gold, and was drawn by eight cream-colored horses. This was a grand sight; but what was it compared with seeing His Majesty King Jesus, in His beauty and His glory, as seen in the Mount of Transfiguration? This sight of Him will be reproduced when "He reigns in Mount Zion, in Jerusalem, and before His ancients gloriously."

      On Friday, December 15, I went by rail to Blisworth, to pay my uncle at Greens Norton another visit. On this occasion I became better acquainted with Mr. Sheppard, pastor of the Christian Church at Towcester; and arrangements were made for me to give an address at the chapel on the evening of the 28th, on "Primitive Christianity." On Lord's-day, the 17th, I attended services at the chapel both morning and evening, and was pleased with the Scriptural order observed. After the usual morning service, a father, mother, and daughter were immersed upon a confession of faith in the Lord Jesus Christ.

      On Wednesday, December 20, I took the train for Birmingham to pay two or three promised visits. I found, on arrival, that I had left my pocket-book behind, with the name and address of the gentleman I was to call on. I concluded that I had come on "a fool's errand"; but walking up from the station I glanced at a row of cabs with bright gold letters, and I lighted upon the name I wanted. This was the key, and the loan of a directory speedily placed me in possession of the information I required. [249] Next day, having made my calls and had a look at some of the large manufactories at Birmingham, I paid a flying visit to Derby, and then on to Nottingham. Elder Wallis had invited me to be present at the anniversary of the Church and Sunday-school, Nottingham, at Christmas, and having accepted the invitation I proceeded thither, feeling assured that I would have a good time there. When I arrived in England early in September I did not contemplate for a moment such a protracted stay, but the time passed so rapidly that I could scarcely realise that I had been between three and four months in the old country. Business letters from Adelaide led me to conclude that my affairs there were in good hands, so that I did not feel it necessary to hasten my return. I had paid two or three visits to the docks to inspect the vessels laid on for Adelaide, but I could not finally decide till the time drew near for my departure.

      On Lord's-day, December 24, I attended the meeting of the Church at Nottingham, and gave an address to Christians. I also gave a Gospel address in the evening specially intended for the unsaved. Elder Wallis supplemented my remarks by an earnest appeal to the undecided to accept the invitation offered in the Gospel to all who were desirous of salvation.

      Monday, December 25, did not seem like Christmas day, as there were no religious services observed by the friends with whom I was staying. Preparations were made through the day for the anniversary services to be held in the evening, on which occasion I was asked to give an address. This was an interesting gathering, which broke up at about 10 o'clock, but so many wanted so much information about South Australia that I did not get to my bed before 1 o'clock in the morning.

      On Tuesday, December 26, after a morning walk, I went to dinner at Elder Hynde's, on which occasion his daughter, an accomplished artist, asked to be allowed to sketch my likeness, which they desired to preserve as a memento of the visit. Of course such a request could not be refused, and it seemed to indicate that I had made a favorable impression upon the minds of my kind entertainers. I parted from the Elder and his widow daughter with some regret, and felt that theirs was a genuine Christian affection. This venerable man could not have manifested more Christian love on seeing a son for what might prove the last time, than he did on taking leave of me. In the evening, at the Sunday-school festival, I addressed the teachers and scholars, and bade them good-by, not expecting to see them again, as my departure was fixed for the morrow. About forty years later I [250] had the pleasure, in Melbourne, of meeting with one of the teachers, then Mrs. Ludbrook, a daughter of Elder Wallace; and of being introduced to some of her grown-up sons and daughters.

      On Wednesday, December 27, I took leave of my Nottingham friends to deliver my promised address at Towcester. Pastor Sheppard met me at the station, and drove me to his residence; which was in the locality of Burcott, where my mother's ancestors had resided for generations. The weather was very cold, the rivers freezing, and the country covered with snow; which gave me a good idea of a winter in England. I could safely conclude that my relatives at the Antipodes were sweltering with the intense heat usually experienced by them at that time of the year.

      On going to Towcester on the following day, I saw posters displayed announcing my address; and in the evening the chapel was crowded, some being unable to gain admittance. The subject was "Primitive Christianity," and I spoke for an hour and a-half, giving Scripture authority for all that I advanced. Those who heard me would, I imagine, be thoroughly convinced that I was neither a Mormon, a Shaker, nor a Quaker. I felt a peculiar satisfaction in giving this address, as it not only witnessed to the truth of the New Testament Scriptures, but was calculated to remove any erroneous impressions as to my religious views.

      In a letter from Pastor Sheppard before I left England, he reported as follows, relative to my address at Towcester:--"We felt much pleased with the plain and simple remarks you made, and they were quite in accordance with the views we are in the habit of hearing and uttering in that place." He concluded his letter thus:--"Wishing you a safe and comfortable voyage home; that the blessing of the Lord may attend you in the work you have laid out for yourself in your own circle; that your own soul may be abundantly enriched with the Holy Spirit; and that you may abound in every good word and work, is the sincere desire of your brother in the Kingdom of the Messiah. (Signed) Sam'l. Sheppard." What more could I desire than this? It showed that though our acquaintance was a very short one, the truth of God had united our hearts in the best of bonds.

      After taking leave of my uncle at Norton, I paid a short visit, by invitation, to Buckingham. A few Christian brethren here had desired me to give them a call; and on Lord's-day, December 31, I met with them and delivered addresses both in the morning and evening. This being the town where my mother received her education at a boarding-school for young ladies, as [251] mentioned in the earlier part of my narrative, I felt some interest in the place; but the people generally appeared to be at least a century behind the age. On New Year's Day, 1855, I returned to London, and on the day following went to the London Docks to decide about taking my passage to Adelaide in the ship Robert Morrison, which was expected to sail about January 15. For several days I had to call at a number of places to make the necessary arrangements for outfit, etc. My aunt, a cousin, and Mr. Scott's son, had decided to sail with me to Adelaide; and this necessitated an entire alteration in my original plan. Two of the company were not prepared to take a first-cabin passage, and if we were to travel together I must come down to a second-cabin fare; which, under the circumstances, I concluded to be the best.

      On Lord's-day, January 7, I attended the meetings of the Church at Hammersmith; but as I was suffering from a severe influenza cold, I could not enter heartily into the services. Mr. Kidner kindly prescribed for me, and it passed off in a day or two. This, the only severe cold I had contracted while in England, was evidently caught by riding, in a raw, cold wind, on the top of an omnibus. I took the precaution when in warm rooms, not to sit too near the fire, and my friends could not understand this in one who had come from a warmer latitude. By adopting this habit, however, I did not feel the extremes of heat and cold so much as would have been the case otherwise. I did not wrap up so closely as some appeared to do, but endeavored to keep up the circulation by taking as much walking exercise as possible.

      On Wednesday, January 17, finding that the vessel would not sail for a few days, I took one more trip into the provinces, to pay a promised visit, proceeding by train to Kingston, and by omnibus to Bookham. The country for miles and miles was covered with snow, and formed the most extensive snowscape (if that word will do) I had witnessed. I spent a pleasant evening with Mrs. Horne and her daughters, who were pleased to hear all I could tell them about their beloved relative and my dear friend in Australia. I appreciated the good fire in the drawing-room, and the effect of the warming-pan upon the bed I occupied later. [252]

[CLACE 229-252]